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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7) : Photo
By: veedublvr When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: what is the smoke in the background?
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : The Ladder (5.6)
By: veedublvr When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would seriously recommend that you TR this climb. All the placements I got (a #3 Camalot down low,a #2 Camalot in the horizontal, and a .25 in a small pod near the top) sand profusely poured from when I tested the placements (just a bit sketchy in my book don't know about yours) not to mention there are 2 or 3 large blocks (one as big as small refrigerator) that look like they might come off sooner than latter. Also knocked some loose rock on my belayer from breaking holds, exerci... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area
By: veedublvr When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Municipal Water building is no longer green, it is white... It looks like a castle kinda with no windows. As of 3-28-09 there is a road closed sign (probably due to the fire that recently swept through the area) on Gibraltar Rd, however the road is open all the way to the top.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : He Who Double-crosses Me... (5.8)
By: veedublvr When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolted anchor has been replaced with a single cold shut (unless that is a newer route) it's camouflaged too 3-28-09
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Klingon (5.9 R)
By: veedublvr When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems a little odd to only put one bolt at the anchors no matter how bomber... Either way thank you Matthew for taking the initiative to replace many of the anchors and bolts in the area.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Dome : Main Wall : ... : Photo
By: veedublvr When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What pitch is that?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: veedublvr When: Feb 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting that the FA is confidential... Is there chipping, gluing, or erroneous bolts concerned?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Funky Dung (5.8)
By: veedublvr When: Feb 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: that sketchy flake is still there, I banged on it and the whole thing shifted someone needs to go out there and knock that thing off before it kills someone(I would have done it but there was a large party on Overseer so I just avoided it at all cost), super sketchy!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Sargeant Rock : 39 Steps (5.4)
By: veedublvr When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt anchors are down and to the left, they are useless if you want to setup a TR. Out right of the dike, about 15 feet, there is a spot where you can get a few pieces in, but you'll need at least a 30 foot cordellete. No need to bring any gear for the route with you just a quick draw a hidden cam is permanently stuck.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Black Rocks : Freriks Is A Daddy (5.10b/c)
By: veedublvr When: Jan 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think this is Unnamed 10c as the guide book describes the route "on the lefthand cliff, near the right side." It also mentions a bolt, a seam, and a hand traverse all of which are non-existant on this route. When I did it (1-3-09) I graded the route 5.7+ (not 10c not even close) my money is on Ranking Carl or Miller and Fitzhugh getting a FA.
It was a bit of a rope stretcher about 28 meters or so with fun climbing on bomber rock. You pull 2 bulges on big chicken heads and a bit of stem... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : Norm (5.10a)
By: veedublvr When: Dec 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Falcon Guide Jtree West (pg 332) shows the route going all the way to the top of the formation. The route does not go all the way to the top, rather it stops below and left of the highest tree.
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Location: Sam Lightner, Jr. : review : Photo
By: veedublvr When: Dec 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have climbed in every single 5.10 shoe made (practically) and this one is by and away my most favorite! I LOVE this shoe!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Photo
By: veedublvr When: Dec 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ugghhh... I think I'd pee in my pants if I saw that.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Photo
By: veedublvr When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good photo!
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Location: VA : Great Falls
By: veedublvr When: Oct 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got any more photos?
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Sabrina Basin Bouldering : Photo
By: veedublvr When: Oct 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Jaws (5.6 R)
By: veedublvr When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no way that this climb just gets an R, there is no pro on either walls till you get to the overhang 40+ feet up. Of course falling would be pretty hard but still not impossible and if you did the consequences would be dire...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8) : Photo
By: veedublvr When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is not a bad idea to put in a piece above the crux to prevent a spicy pendulum should the follower slip...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8) : Photo
By: veedublvr When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can link 2 through 4 with a 60 meter (you have about 10 feet to spare) and very little rope drag, to make this a 3 pitch climb...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Excellent Adventure (5.11c R)
By: veedublvr When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To the left of Excellent Adventures there is a single pitch (27 m) climb with Mussy Hook anchors. The route is just below the large offwidth that you see when approaching this area. Any beta on ratings, FA, etc...?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Dissolution Rock : Life's A Bitch And Then You... (5.7) : Photo
By: veedublvr When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oooooh.... Nice shoes!
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Keeler Needle : Harding Route (5.10+) : Photo
By: veedublvr When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: His name is mentioned here quite a few times:
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Easy Skankin' (5.5)
By: veedublvr When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I placed a few directionals for the TR to prevent a swing... Fun climb has face climbing, crack climbing, and even a mantle good for beginners. Also might make a good first trad lead as there is pro every 2 feet (once you surmount the 10 feet of face climbing which is very easy though)
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Sting (5.8)
By: veedublvr When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice climb, you can lead this one although there is a good 15 foot section without any pro that is a tad tricky... Don't falter.
The top was the best part as it involves some fun finger jams. Pretty straightforward climb though... The biggest cam I used was the purple Camalot and one #00 C3 the rest was stoppers.
A tad slippery too...
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Circle A Wall
By: veedublvr When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Falcon Guide (pg 36) states that there is a 3rd class gully located to the right (north) of the A Circle Wall. I would hardly would call it a 3rd class gully it is more or less a very easy 5th class climb complete with loose rock and moss. Exercise caution when climbing up and whatever you do don't throw your rope over to the big ledge before stepping over, it might roll off... Don't ask me how I know that....
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