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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag : Roadside Attraction (5.7)
By: vanishing spy When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not worth the hassle of topping this off, you'll need to break up the rappel and go off a tree. Stop at the bolted rap station.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City
By: vanishing spy When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You will need to cross the creek/river. There is a large Tree before the shallow wade crossing. If the tree is wet you can slide your ass across it and get over to FRC without getting your feet wet. If there has been lots of rain, the approach will be muddy and wet regardless of how you cross the river. Don't let this stop you from going to one of the best walls in the RED.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Trusty Rifle (5.7)
By: vanishing spy When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start from the ground with some difficult jamming, laybacking, shitting. The crack is dirty, which adds to the difficulty. Much harder than 5.7. Big cams may keep you off the ground down low.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : The Dangler (5.10a)
By: vanishing spy When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I definitely disagree with the above posts. Something Interesting or Three Pines are great approaches and worth climbing in their own right, regardless of their grade. That ledge is awesome just to hangout on and enjoy the party. The Dangler is a great fun way to finish off those climbs even if you forget your camera.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: vanishing spy When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the best climb to break the 5.10 grade at the Gunks: no wild roofs, no run out "easy" section, and there are solid stances (if you have strong calves) to place gear. There is nearly unlimited pro along the crack and occasionally outside of it as well. Small cams, black alien to yellow and 3CUs are most helpful, the crack also takes nuts. Leave your big stuff at home. Bolted, chained anchor with rap rings through the hangers.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Tough Shift (5.10a PG13)
By: vanishing spy When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I still need to lead this one but will note that Mr. Malloc is right on about the gear. Typically there is gear under such a roof, but somehow it's shallow and wide. My friend barely got a 3 in and said it wouldn't hold and a 4 may be too big. Standing up and reaching over the roof is committing and a fall would be bad news.
I can't wait to give it a go on the sharp end :D
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : V-3 (5.7)
By: vanishing spy When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack in the V stays wet for a while after rain. It's possible to stem and move through without using the holds in the back of the V. There is a Pin up right after pulling the crux. The bad pin before the roof does not need to be clipped, a cam placement is available just above it.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Dry Heaves (5.8+)
By: vanishing spy When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #4 or #3 is needed for the undercling if you wish to protect it. A #4 can be placed from a pretty secure spot taking some of the spice out of the move. The roofs are a lot of fun and tricky to see around and find the holds. There is a chain anchor at the top of the first pitch and you can lower off and belay the second from the ground. Double ropes are also recommended, though be careful not to catch a rope behind the flake after the crux.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: vanishing spy When: Jul 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route, but the first pitch is strenuous, steep and tricky for 5.9, I'd call it 5.10. Maybe it's a bit height dependent. While it's technically possibly to do both pitch 1,2 in one pitch you would need lots of gear and have to manage the drag over the roof. The pitch 2 handcracks take #2 camalots almost anywhere so bring 3 or more, #3s fit in fewer spots. I Went up with two #1,#2, #3s and got flamed bumping the #2s but also plugged a 1, 3. After the ... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Red Cabbage (5.9-)
By: vanishing spy When: Jun 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the same thing, up the obvious crack (not using the arete) till it ends then moved right 2 feet to the holds, straight up to the arete and then move left around the corner. It's the natural thing to do when you're leading.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome : Crescent Arch (5.9+)
By: vanishing spy When: Jun 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a HARD 5.9, long and sustained. The feet look (?) ok but don't feel it. Getting out of the chimney was taxing. The nice thing is you can put in enough gear. I continually thought I would run out of options but a standard rack seemed to work out fine. Thank god I convinced my partner to do the final roof thing move...I took a hanging belay in the corner before the traverse out right.
- my palms are sweating onto the keyboard thinking about this route*
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: vanishing spy When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Luke, if you're interested in creating New Areas for each section at Birdsboro, you can go ahead and make them and fill them with routes.
I thought about creating new areas but decided against it. Birdsboro is kinda small and the idea of creating new areas for each section of the wall, then adding routes didn't seem to make much sense. More importantly, I wanted to be able to search for routes by grade throughout birdsboro using the "Routes best for me" feature. I put the name of the wall e... more >>
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: vanishing spy When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll be editing and adding in more information about the routes with some more detailed description of the climbing, bolt counts, anchor descriptions and some photos. Hopefully people do the same and help out. It's pretty tedious getting all these routes up and listed at once.
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: vanishing spy When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm putting up the route list as listed in the super helpful map someone else put together. I suggest looking at the map.
PLEASE provide positive feedback.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Inverted Layback (5.9) : Photo
By: vanishing spy When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great picture!
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Wailing Wall (5.6)
By: vanishing spy When: Feb 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sigh,My first Trad lead. Super awesome route and worth getting on no matter how hard you climb.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : North Overhang (5.9)
By: vanishing spy When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts appeared fine last week. Very exciting to reach out from under a roof, into a crack and face.
Clip the last bolt for your 2nd. I climbed the route as a 2nd and had a horrible time keeping the rope out of the crack where my hands needed to go. The high & random bolt near the end was probably placed just for your follower.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Lower Right Ski Track (5.10)
By: vanishing spy When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb can easily be done bottom to top in 1 long pitch. The Bolt protects the crux move well, and you can even get gear in as well. I got a #2 (or was it a #3) in before getting on top of the ledge, but at great effort. It would be easier to just pull through the move and get on the ledge. The climb is in the shade from mid-morning and very cold on winter days.
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