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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: vanishing spy When: Jul 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route, but the first pitch is strenuous, steep and tricky for 5.9, I'd call it 5.10. Maybe it's a bit height dependent. While it's technically possibly to do both pitch 1,2 in one pitch you would need lots of gear and have to manage the drag over the roof. The pitch 2 handcracks take #2 camalots almost anywhere so bring 3 or more, #3s fit in fewer spots. I Went up with two #1,#2, #3s and got flamed bumping the #2s but also plugged a 1, 3. After the ... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Red Cabbage (5.9-)
By: vanishing spy When: Jun 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the same thing, up the obvious crack (not using the arete) till it ends then moved right 2 feet to the holds, straight up to the arete and then move left around the corner. It's the natural thing to do when you're leading.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome : Crescent Arch (5.9+)
By: vanishing spy When: Jun 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a HARD 5.9, long and sustained. The feet look (?) ok but don't feel it. Getting out of the chimney was taxing. The nice thing is you can put in enough gear. I continually thought I would run out of options but a standard rack seemed to work out fine. Thank god I convinced my partner to do the final roof thing move...I took a hanging belay in the corner before the traverse out right.
- my palms are sweating onto the keyboard thinking about this route*
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: vanishing spy When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Luke, if you're interested in creating New Areas for each section at Birdsboro, you can go ahead and make them and fill them with routes.
I thought about creating new areas but decided against it. Birdsboro is kinda small and the idea of creating new areas for each section of the wall, then adding routes didn't seem to make much sense. More importantly, I wanted to be able to search for routes by grade throughout birdsboro using the "Routes best for me" feature. I put the name of the wall e... more >>
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: vanishing spy When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll be editing and adding in more information about the routes with some more detailed description of the climbing, bolt counts, anchor descriptions and some photos. Hopefully people do the same and help out. It's pretty tedious getting all these routes up and listed at once.
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: vanishing spy When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm putting up the route list as listed in the super helpful map someone else put together. I suggest looking at the map.
PLEASE provide positive feedback.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Inverted Layback (5.9) : Photo
By: vanishing spy When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great picture!
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Wailing Wall (5.6)
By: vanishing spy When: Feb 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sigh,My first Trad lead. Super awesome route and worth getting on no matter how hard you climb.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : North Overhang (5.9)
By: vanishing spy When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts appeared fine last week. Very exciting to reach out from under a roof, into a crack and face.
Clip the last bolt for your 2nd. I climbed the route as a 2nd and had a horrible time keeping the rope out of the crack where my hands needed to go. The high & random bolt near the end was probably placed just for your follower.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Lower Right Ski Track (5.10)
By: vanishing spy When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb can easily be done bottom to top in 1 long pitch. The Bolt protects the crux move well, and you can even get gear in as well. I got a #2 (or was it a #3) in before getting on top of the ledge, but at great effort. It would be easier to just pull through the move and get on the ledge. The climb is in the shade from mid-morning and very cold on winter days.
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