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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rich,
The routes you listed are all harder than 5.7 and probably not runout, so how could they be even remotely interesting?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin,
Although I am no longer an official regional coordinator for the Access Fund, I think I can certainly say that the Access Fund placed a high priority on South Platte issues in the past and probably still does. I'll do some checking and see what is currently going on inside the Access Fund on South Platte activities.
I was personally involved in a number of projects too numerous to list and many I've probably forgotten related to various South Platte areas. Some of the issues were real... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As someone who was involved in access issues for the Access Fund in the past I'd like to add some information that may not be widely known. Back in the mid-'90s JeffCo acquired the spires and the Dome from BLM, basically because BLM didn't want to deal with the isolated parcels and Jeffco was very zealous in getting their hands on anything that was or could be used for peregrine nesting. How that relates to JeffCo Open Space's basic mission is a bit unclear.
JeffCo originally intended to clos... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somewhere back in the distant past I was in on one of the slab routes at Snake Buttress, unfortunately I don't remember which one. We placed 1/4" bolts on lead on that route and I recall some differences in our feeling how reliable the bolts would be after they were in as some stances were easier to drill from than others, etc. Thanks to Kevin and others for replacing that old junk with something that might actually hold a fall.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heard that there were a lot of bull dozers in the area and heavy equipment, what's up with that? If there was a lot of heavy construction, it would seem to be incongruent with so much concern over climbing activity.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Too! (5.12a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As predicted, people climbing this route when there were a whole bunch of climbers below proved hazardous. Yesterday, when two rocket scientists decided to climb up, then rappel back thru 5 pitches of choss right above a whole crowd of people they pulled down an entire tree and associated rocks from two pitches up, narrowly missing everyone below. It was a miracle that no one was killed. Perhaps this route should be renamed "Don't" or even better yet "Chopped".
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Cornflake Crack (5.11a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In 35 years of climbing this still rates as the best 5.11 trad climb in my book. Way better than the Naked Edge.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: UPDATE
The monster death cookie (4' x 2' x 2') by the belay is now gone. It yielded easily with just a lift to the end and then quickly dropped under its 300 or so lbs. of weight. Thanks to Derek Lawrence for spotting and keeping people away. Fortunately it didn't do any damage to holds hangers or even the belay ledge and is now a welcome addition to the talus below. I'm not sure if this block was there in its detached condition when the route went in or shifted outward over the last few ye... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Cornered Rats (5.11b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Monty,
By all means feel free to drop the anchor a bit lower. I've been trying to fix up some of the old stuff here and there and could really use the help. Please post whatever you fix so that I can keep the info up to date. Glad to hear you have liked some of the routes, it makes all the work worthwhile!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: DANGER - DANGER - DANGER
I can't believe that the block identified in 2003 by the belay is still there. That thing is the king of the death cookies if there ever was one. When I first saw it I thought that it had to be one long piece that was somehow wedged into the wall, but no, it's fractured right at the point where it intersects the wall. This thing needs to go big time. Don't even sneeze when you're near it. Hopefully we can organize a small group very soon to remove this looming dang... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Man Chowder (5.11d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Monty, you're absolutely right about the anchor. This one is high on the list for an upgrade. I thought that lowering the anchor station to the last bolt below the anchors would be best. Does that sound consistent with your experience? The top anchor may have been drilled in a solo bolting endeavor.
Also, this route yielded one of the biggest trundles ever, a block 12' x 12' x 2' with a mere flick of the crowbar.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A proposal for replacement of existing fixed protection has already been submitted to Jen Marten, the park manager for Castlewood and she is working with the State Parks bureaurocracy to consider the proposal. I currently have some ARI hardware set aside for the job ready to go. I think that any support that can be given to accelerating things with the State Parks authorities would be great. Jen is very friendly and will listen to your input. The rock at Castlewood is especially soft in plac... more >>
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Oblivion Roof : Vitamin I (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photo taken by Gordon Anderson
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Oblivion Roof : Vitamin I (5.11c/d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route may be in a different sector as it is the first route to the right of Vitamin K. Vertical face to pumpy bulge, feels about the same as Pump Me Like A Shotgun in difficulty and has a similar style. The belayer should stay in close to the wall as the flakes may still shed some chunks. A pretty thorough cleaning was done though.
Protection - about 12 bolts to the anchor.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Munitions Roof : Pump Me Like a Shotgun (5.11d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt about midway through the crux was replaced on 7/6/09. It was spinning and could not be tightened. Due to the hollow rock the bolt was relocated a short distance lower. It appeared that there was a spot of weak rock partway in that led to the loosening of the bolt.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Too! (5.12a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Despite what appears to be not too much loose rock on Too!, climbing this route when there are dozens of people below on what has become one of the most popular areas in CCC is probably not a good idea. As noted by other climbers, things continue to break and would likely hit someone below. The rock in CCC just isn't all that solid. Perhaps a weekday morning would be the best time to do this one. Personally, if I was at the Little Eiger and I saw someone go up Too! I would leave.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Facts Wall : Totality of Facts (5.11d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11d, huh?? I couldn't find a way to do this route that felt anything like 11d. Getting over the roof was awkward & the huge reach after that with no feet stumped me. A shorter person may have been able to use one manky divot under the roof, but it didn't work for me.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Slinky (5.12d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jun 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The full length route is already listed as Goin' the Distance here on MP and in the book too I think. Slinky would refer to the part of the route that was done first to an anchor at the lip of the roof that was later moved lower as it got in the way of the actual crux moves.
Administrator - not sure how you handle these situations.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jun 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike,
Go to the main Mondo Beyondo area or Home Alone (right by the road). You won't have to worry about heat at Tensleep, all the westerners are wimps when it comes to that. If the 500 sweet routes at Tensleep aren't enough, or if your fingers get worked by the sharp dolomite, head to Spearfish Canyon in SD, it's only a couple of hours away and there are hundreds more routes that seem to be less sharp. Enjoy!!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Smack That Bitch Up (5.11c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor for this route was replaced on 5/28/2009 with new hardware courtesy of the Anchor Replacement Initiative, same anchor as used for The Outsider. Additionally, the big flake at the last bolt was tossed, some pieces going all the way to the river. What could have been a tempting hold for those not used to climbing in areas with rock like Clear Creek (choss) is now gone. This has no effect on the grade of the route or the moves in the vicinity of the block that was tossed.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : The Outsider (5.11c/d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor for this route was replaced on 5/28/2009 with new hardware courtesy of the Anchor Replacement Initiative. Additionally, the loose hold below the roof was tossed and can be viewed at the hold museum located at the base of Learning to Crawl. The route may be harder now for shorter people. I may move the bolt in a bit, next time up to make it easier to clip, but climbers will need to use longer slings as there are some sharp edges above.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Information Sought
There are several new routes in the alcove that lies immediately to the west of Digital Tower. Some are on the west face of Digital Tower itself and others (8 total) are on the east-facing wall adjacent to that. Any information regarding the names, ratings, etc. would be most appreciated.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Secret Crag : King of Pain (5.12b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think so, did I walk or crawl out that day?
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Rebel Yell (5.11b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hangers were replaced on the route during the week of 4/27/2009 and two bolts added, one at the start to protect the area below the high first bolt and another in the crux at the top. The top crux can be done on the face to the left of the arete by using a higher left handhold than the obvious nice sidepull/undercling. Finishing around the corner to the right at the top could risk rope damage in a fall. Apparently Ken Trout already fixed the top anchors I would have done that too, thanks ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. Interesting climbing on good stone the whole way, kudos to the FA team for picking the line and doing all the work. At some point it would be good to replace the slings with chain at the belays. I would not recommend applying a wrench to any of the bolts as the nuts were not loose and further mechanical action would possibly make the bolts worse. If one were to replace the slings it would be good to have a drill along in case one of the bolts is fouled, a couple of them moved in... more >>
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