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Member Since: Jan 20, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Tzilla Rapdrilla


Point Rank: # 561
Total Points: 1,014
Last Year: 303
Last 30 Days: 1
78 Compliments
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All (779) | Routes (61) | Areas | Photos (39) | Comments (209) | Posts (195) | Stars (219) | Ratings (56)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Rock Springs Buttress
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: Free info on this crag can be found here:

www.tetonclimbing.com/pdf/RockSpringsButt.pdf


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Meanwhile (5.12c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: All protection bolt hardware on P1 upgraded 5/26/12.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Back at the Ranch (5.11c/d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: All protection bolt hardware upgraded 5/26/12.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: If you're comparing this document to the books in print, you may find a discrepancy, but I'd take a walk up there and check. Some of the routes were retrofitted in the last year or two.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: I'll update it and repost, that's easy to fix.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Surgery Buttress
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: The exposed, loose, narrow ledge traverse approach to this crag is downright dangerous. Perhaps coming up the draw to the west of the crag and coming in from the left end would be better.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: I use hardware store steel pulleys ($5 - 10 Ace Hardware, etc.) & grind out the flange that holds the 2 halves together where you clip in. That way you don't have to remove the clevis pin and can split the pulley just like a climbing pulley. Wear sunglasses to protect the eyes & backup the whole rig with an unweighted old biner on a long sling.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: SEASON OPENER - As of 4/13/12 the road is open to Devil's Head. Be advised that the very north end of Rampart Range Road is still closed for a tree cutting operation, so you have to go up Jackson Creek Road instead. As usual the USFS kept the road closed as long as possible, so there isn't any of the winter snowpack left & the trails are all in great shape, enjoy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Punk Rock : Sex Pistol (5.12a/b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Still some crumbly stuff here and there, but cleaning more with each passing ascent. Using the crystal flake in the upper part seemed to make a lot more sense to me.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Minimum Security (5.11c/d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: There would be a nice hard line up the overhanging wall just to the left of this route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Supermax (5.11d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: Great route, nice & pumpy & not too thin or sharp like many Shelf routes. The chert band midway seems to be cleaning up pretty well, although some care may still be warranted there.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Great Warm-Up Boulder
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: A few muddy spots & some ice & snow on the shady side of the hill adjacent to the crags, but not too bad overall. Nice & quiet, had the place to ourselves on a Sunday.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Great Warm-Up Boulder
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: I'll bet those were the first ascents by a 12 year old....


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden...
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 2, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know what the authhority of the Golden officials is within this property? The land is private property owned by the Access Fund; however it is open to the public. So, is this land the same as someone's backyard where a dog is not required to be leashed, or is it in a diferent status? Also, the Access Fund can set whatever requirements they choose above the city requirements too.


Location: WY : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit...
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: I'd like to echo what Chris said about posting the Laramie Range crags up for others to enjoy. The people who take the time and devote the energy needed to thrash through miles of backcountry to find the crags, then do all the work and spend the money for the fixed hardware and put up the routes deserve a lot of credit. These areas look great, but are far enough off the beaten path and involve enough walking time to not become overrun. I hope to run into the Laramie crew up there sometime & s... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: I'll be interested to learn what the route comes in at & it's good to see folks still interested in doing excavation, I mean route development in CCC.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: There's an old partially bolted project in this vicinity that we started a long time ago. Please feel free to finish/modify it if you wish. It would be a good idea to check out the integrity of the stone as we didn't do a lot of cleaning on that one. I think it may be the black line.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Via Comatose Amigo (5.10c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: I seem to remember burning a hole in my chalkbag with a hot drill bit on this one, then the bit hit my leg, caught my attention. That quartzy pegmatite is murder on bits, it dulled the bit so much that the tip of the bit blew right out.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 31, 2011

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Comments: I appreciate Mike weighing in on this issue as he has the most impact on the overall situation. While it may seem incongruent for a person standing on a busy highway next to a big, ugly guardrail to complain about a few pieces of fixed climbing gear, that is exactly what they will do. In some cases, perception can be more important than reality, and it should be important to the climbing community how the non-climbing public perceives us. Camoflauged bolt hangers are virtually invisible from ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: Considering the recent Climbing Magazine article and the incomplete information contained in it, one could be misled to believe that there is no current guidebook available for Devil’s Head; when in fact, there is a recently published, comprehensive, full color guidebook for the entire area – Rampart Range Rocks. Rampart Range Rocks is available in almost all outdoor retailers in Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, and New Mexico. It should be noted that ALL OF THE PR... more >>


Location: WY : Little Bear Gulch 28 Routes...
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 11, 2011

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Comments: I'll be excited to learn more dteails about individual routes in this area, it looks really good and off the beaten path.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Clyde's Big Adventure (5.12a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 4, 2011

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Comments: Clyde got my lunch on this one (he's good at that by the way). Couldn't figure out how to stay on the line at bolt #5 without going over into War on Peace. Tried to stem through it, but maybe there's a way to use the referenced hip scum thing that I didn't try. Seemed way harder than War on Peace. Both routes are great additions to the Bocan set of routes.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Starcastle
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 1, 2011

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Comments: Wow, I'm surprised that anyone else would be familiar with Starcastle. I actually prefer their music to the more well known Yes & the routes & the crag name were inspired by the band. It's also possible to sneak up to all of the lower routes from just below the Zinn Overlook & the scrambling is easier that way.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Breakfast Cliff : The Morning Poos (5.8)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 29, 2011

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Comments: I think the links I had are plated steel & I wrenched them down as tight as I could. I don't think that there would be any mixed metal stress corrosion issues for the links as nothing is under stress like a bolt and hanger are. I would think that even rapping thru single link would foul your rope when you pulled it though. Even the Fixe' single rings suck despite their attempt to change the angle of the hanger. Also, a place called Pambina has very good prices on quick links & let me know if... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 29, 2011

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Comments: Euro mess.


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