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Member Since: Jan 20, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 16, 2014
Contact Tzilla Rapdrilla


Point Rank: # 587
Total Points: 1,023
Last Year: 34
Last 30 Days: 6
80 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tzilla Rapdrilla been climbing?










Contributions


All 799 | Routes 60 | Areas | Photos 40 | Page Improvments | Comments 223 | Posts 195 | Stars 222 | Ratings 59
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d) : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 16, 2012

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Comments: A slightly downward heel toe cam with the left foot makes that move go a lot easier.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 2, 2012

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Comments: Rob, first thanks for taking the initiative to help out with some items in CCC, your efforts makes the area better for all of us. It appears that you are trying to address a condition arising from abandoned or intentionally donated fixed draws. It seems that there are three options for dealing with sub-par draws left on routes, they can be removed, left as is, or upgraded. For the last two options, these draws then become something that the climbing community needs to continually maintain.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Here's a reason why not to add fixed draws - nobody maintains them and they become hazards:

www.rockandice.com/news/2301-fatal-accident-fixed-draw-cuts->>>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: At least one TV-sized block with a hangerless bolt in it came from Natural Selection earlier this summer and is near the base of that route. Don't know if that helps confirm even more recent rockfall or not.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crimpfest Wall : Planet Gnarler (5.12b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: I think there's a heel hook that takes you straight through the roof and a sort of scrunched up move after that. Perhaps there are a couple of different ways to do this one. I thought the face climbing above the roof was good.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Project X Wall : Stemasaurus (5.12a/b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Also, there's now a 2-bolt top anchor courtesy of ARI from our efforts of a couple of years ago, originally there was only one bolt on top. Something definitely could've broken maybe years ago & then the rock weathered a bit, it could be harder than originally thought, or I may not have figured out the proper contortion to get established in the stem. It should be a reasonable lead or fun TR project now though.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village : Disappearer (5.11b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Dustin, great job!!!!!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : 9.925 (5.9)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Note - the anchor bolts on this are only about 2" apart and completed with a rather flimsy chain. Interesting stone though for granite.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Endless Wall : Printer Boy (5.11)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: WARNING - Ditto the previous comment about the death block. Why wasn't that thing pitched when the route went in? It is only held in by a baseball-sized rock and is actually fractured in half. I noticed chalk on it when I carefully climbed around it yesterday. This thing needs to go. In the meantime, resist the temptation to even touch it. A crowbar and a ground crew to keep folks away would be needed to fix this mess.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Beaks and Feet (5.10a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: When you buy cheap down gear you get beaks & feet instead of the fluffy stuff.....


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Jungle : Jungle Mountaineering (5.10a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: FYI - Page 18 of RRR, 5th paragraph indicates that the bolt counts in the book are approximate. On this particular climb there are 5 different alternatives that could be used to access the upper pitches. It would have been nice if the steepness & features on the start of pitch 3 went on for a long ways, but at least it was fun for awhile. There's still quite a bit of room for more moderate multi-pitch action on this wall when someone gets around to doing it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crimpfest Wall : Better Rad than Trad (5.12b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: I suppose a hold could have broken, although that one always seemed kind of hard to me. The holds over the roof are kind of small crimps.


Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Rodeo Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: Free miniguide available here:

www.tetonclimbing.com/pdf/rodeowall.pdf


Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Hoback Shield
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: Free miniguide available here:

www.tetonclimbing.com/pdf/hobackshield.pdf


Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Rock Springs Buttress
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: Free info on this crag can be found here:

www.tetonclimbing.com/pdf/RockSpringsButt.pdf


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Meanwhile (5.12c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: All protection bolt hardware on P1 upgraded 5/26/12.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crag Ranch : Back at the Ranch (5.11c/d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: All protection bolt hardware upgraded 5/26/12.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: If you're comparing this document to the books in print, you may find a discrepancy, but I'd take a walk up there and check. Some of the routes were retrofitted in the last year or two.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: I'll update it and repost, that's easy to fix.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Surgery Buttress
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: The exposed, loose, narrow ledge traverse approach to this crag is downright dangerous. Perhaps coming up the draw to the west of the crag and coming in from the left end would be better.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: I use hardware store steel pulleys ($5 - 10 Ace Hardware, etc.) & grind out the flange that holds the 2 halves together where you clip in. That way you don't have to remove the clevis pin and can split the pulley just like a climbing pulley. Wear sunglasses to protect the eyes & backup the whole rig with an unweighted old biner on a long sling.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: SEASON OPENER - As of 4/13/12 the road is open to Devil's Head. Be advised that the very north end of Rampart Range Road is still closed for a tree cutting operation, so you have to go up Jackson Creek Road instead. As usual the USFS kept the road closed as long as possible, so there isn't any of the winter snowpack left & the trails are all in great shape, enjoy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Punk Rock : Sex Pistol (5.12a/b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Still some crumbly stuff here and there, but cleaning more with each passing ascent. Using the crystal flake in the upper part seemed to make a lot more sense to me.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Minimum Security (5.11c/d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: There would be a nice hard line up the overhanging wall just to the left of this route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Supermax (5.11d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: Great route, nice & pumpy & not too thin or sharp like many Shelf routes. The chert band midway seems to be cleaning up pretty well, although some care may still be warranted there.


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