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Member Since: Jan 20, 2006
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact Tzilla Rapdrilla

Point Rank: # 636
Total Points: 1,062
Last Year: 39
Last 30 Days: 2
81 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tzilla Rapdrilla been climbing?










Contributions


All 854 | Routes 62 | Areas | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 237 | Posts 208 | Stars 236 | Ratings 70
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Tora, Tora, Tora (5.11b/c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: If it's any consolation, the bolt hangers are probably spinning more easily because the new hangers are thinner than the original cold shuts. I think I added washers when I upgraded the hangers a few years back, but the hangers could spin more easily in that configuration. The Rawl 5-piece bolts are designed in a way that the hanger or equipment attached can vibrate or move without compromising the bolt itself. If the bolts themselves actually appeared to move, then that's a different story.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : The Nose (5.8)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: Is it possible to rap the Nose with a single 70M cord? It would appear so from the description.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : The Hipster (5.12a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: I think if one didn't pick up that the low crux works best by going left on the arete, the route would seem a whole lot harder. I got suckered into staying on the face at first before discovering the much better way staying over on the arete.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Papa's Got a Brand New Crag (5.11)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: Glenn,

Thanks for noting that & rappelling should work fine for anyone doing the route soon hereafter. In fact, even with single links, our rope was less snarled than what often occurs with Fixe single ring anchors.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Hang on to those bolts too, and we'll get some tests run.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : NIMBY (5.10a/b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: No longer R rated, now fully protected with 7 bolts, enjoy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Sunrider (5.11c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: The Sunrider bolts that were removed for the recent upgrade were tested at the CSU lab and all of them sheared at about 3800 lbs. This was a pretty good test result considering the appearance of the bolts and that they had been extracted with the Greenlee. More information on the test results will be available soon.


Location: GA : Mount Yonah : Main Face : Afternoon Delight (5.11a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: Interesting, I was a student of the Southeastern School of Mountaineering that summer & also climbed with Tom a fair bit back in those days. He was certainly quite the character. I remember him stitching up his own eyebrow after pulling too hard on an ice tool he was using to climb a tree.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Tiger's Woody (5.13a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Pocket "natural"? The entire cliff was manufactured, so technically nothing there is natural. The pocket could have been from drilling to set the explosives.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Energy Before Ecstasy (5.10a/b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 22, 2014

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Comments: The climbing is OK, but the bolting somewhat lacking, perhaps because they were trying to force the line too much. The runout above the second roof is bad not only due to lack of pro but because the rope tends to catch under the roof. An added bolt would fix that. There's also a loose block near the top that needs to go too.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The French Are Here (5.12c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: You guys rock!!


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Echo Canyon (aka The Scoop)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Some nice steep routes there, huh?


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: followed Eric Perlman and another major Cali local of this route about 10 years ago. The route is everything is cracked up to be and more. The Hidden Wall was great too.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: There are several areas that get good sun this time of year, the obvious being the Solarium of course, along with Wipeyur, Jungle, Crimpfest, Arena, and Crag Ranch. Since most of the walls face either east or west, you can flip flop to stay in the sun by switching crags about mid-day. Hope this helps.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : No Turning Back (5.12c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: I can only recall one questionable flake, but that was back in the '90s when the route went in so things may have changed or perhaps people are climbing a slightly different line than I did. I would say to reef away on anything that is now loose and maybe post any changes to the grade.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Begin Again (5.12a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Just let me know when you want to head on up there, & we'll get'er done!!


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Jungle : Jungle Beaver (5.10+)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: Left of all of the other routes on the Jungle, left of Jungle Mountaineering from what I understand. I haven't been there since this went in, but I did notice some possibilities over there.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 29, 2013

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Comments: There isn't any cell service in the canyon at all. You pretty much need to drive into the town of Tensleep.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Also, I think the name Ten Sleep comes from the fact that you have to sleep until 10 AM, then get up & go climbing, hence Ten Sleep.......


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: As of last week they were sitting on a boulder at the base of Killer Karma. Don't know if anyone has picked them up since then.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Sweet Petite (5.11d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Looks like a great line!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Le Nouveau Riche (5.10b PG13)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: How rusted is "very rusted"? Some pics would help. I've replaced quite a few bolts & hangers lately and although they were rusted on the surface, the underside of the wedge bolt nut, or Rawl bolt were just fine.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Krishna & Serenity Spire : Bobby's Wall (5.10c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: I could only identify one bolt remaining on this climb if I have the location correct. The remaining bolt is way down low below a short crack/flake section.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : High Pockets (5.11a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 26, 2013

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Comments: One of the top anchors was provided courtesy of ASCA - many thanks to them. The rest of the hardware was supplied by the Devil's Head Crew (Rampart Range Rocks guidebook). Additionally, more loose blocks were cleaned, some probably loosened by the big chunk that came off not too long ago. Everything should be pretty solid now, but it's still best to not stand directly under the climber on this one, & you won't when you belay anyway as the climb angles a bit. Finally, thanks to Bob for spotti... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Dolphin Dancing (5.11c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Needs a hardware upgrade.


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