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Member Since: Jan 20, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Tzilla Rapdrilla


Point Rank: # 562
Total Points: 1,014
Last Year: 303
Last 30 Days: 1
78 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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All (779) | Routes (61) | Areas | Photos (39) | Comments (209) | Posts (195) | Stars (219) | Ratings (56)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Schmauser - Bohannon Route (5.11)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: Wow, that's a truly amazing talent, knowing exactly what routes everyone was doing before you were even born. Maybe someday I'll find some more ancient photos of me climbing 5.11 Splatte trad routes, like the one of the first ascent in colorful garb of Secret Climb One, or whatever it's called at Twisted Sister, and post those up on the internet somewhere.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Trundle (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: Unfortunately whoever put this route in should have learned how trundle. The perched block left behind in the chimney was easy dislodged by a mere bump and rolled right through all of the climbers at the base of Staying Power. There are still 2 big blocks sitting on the ledge at the base. If you're going to bolt routes, do all of the cleaning or don't bolt them at all. Plus, the upper part of the route is botched, too.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Uncle Wiggly (5.10c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Feb 15, 2013

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Comments: This route is actually in between Castle Corner and Throne Room and begins close to Castle Corner.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Coal Creek Canyon : 6th FlatIron : Sand-Witch (5.7)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Feb 11, 2013

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Comments: I live in the Blue Mountain Estates as do a number of climbers actually, and if this is one of the crags in the valley, it is on private land for sure. I think the Bisque family owns most of the interesting looking crags, and they haven't been all that amenable to climbing as far as I know. Before heading up onto one of those formations, I'd make sure you know exactly whose land you accessing & get their explicit approval. JeffCo has all of the property ownership records on-line.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : At Fault for Chattery (5.10b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Specifically what looked bad about the bolts? I'm ... sure if I actually put the bolts in to begin with, I seem to recall SMC hangers.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress : Sidewinder (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: Seems like there are some errors with the MP system from time to time on the 2nd route entry page.

This route is located a ways to the right of Seven Sharp beginning with a right angling crack near some roofs that leads up to a slab with 3 or so bolts.

Gear to 3.5".


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress : Hubba Bubba (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: This route is located in between Jo Bubba and Wake of the Flood. It begins off a block and goes up past a 3 bolts to a thin crack and ends at the anchor shared by many routes.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Humphrey's Dome : Evening Light (5.9+)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 16, 2013

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Comments: This route starts up Carpe Diem but branches right along a crack aiming for a slab above. The second, 9+ pitch heads up the slab past a few bolts to an old 2-bolt anchor.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Humphrey's Dome : Carpe Diem (5.10c R)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 16, 2013

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Comments: The bolts were old and scary in the 1980s when I did this, can't imagine what they're like now.


Location: CO : Golden : Ralston Buttes
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Dec 12, 2012

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Comments: Glen,

As you noted noted the closure of this area is completely unjustified and utter BS. It took a long time, but the taxpaying public was able to gain changes to the restrictions in the Flatirons, maybe the same could be done at Ralston. The Access Fund, Colorado Mountain Club, and Alpine Club may be able to assist.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d) : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Yep, except I pointed my foot downward along the crack instead of straight in, a minor distinction, but it seemed to make the move much more static. It's great when you can sponge beta from one of your buddies and get the send!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d) : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 16, 2012

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Comments: A slightly downward heel toe cam with the left foot makes that move go a lot easier.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 2, 2012

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Comments: Rob, first thanks for taking the initiative to help out with some items in CCC, your efforts makes the area better for all of us. It appears that you are trying to address a condition arising from abandoned or intentionally donated fixed draws. It seems that there are three options for dealing with sub-par draws left on routes, they can be removed, left as is, or upgraded. For the last two options, these draws then become something that the climbing community needs to continually maintain.
... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Here's a reason why not to add fixed draws - nobody maintains them and they become hazards:

www.rockandice.com/news/2301-fatal-accident-fixed-draw-cuts->>>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: At least one TV-sized block with a hangerless bolt in it came from Natural Selection earlier this summer and is near the base of that route. Don't know if that helps confirm even more recent rockfall or not.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crimpfest Wall : Planet Gnarler (5.12b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: I think there's a heel hook that takes you straight through the roof and a sort of scrunched up move after that. Perhaps there are a couple of different ways to do this one. I thought the face climbing above the roof was good.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Project X Wall : Stemasaurus (5.12a/b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Also, there's now a 2-bolt top anchor courtesy of ARI from our efforts of a couple of years ago, originally there was only one bolt on top. Something definitely could've broken maybe years ago & then the rock weathered a bit, it could be harder than originally thought, or I may not have figured out the proper contortion to get established in the stem. It should be a reasonable lead or fun TR project now though.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village : Disappearer (5.11b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Dustin, great job!!!!!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : 9.925 (5.9)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Note - the anchor bolts on this are only about 2" apart and completed with a rather flimsy chain. Interesting stone though for granite.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Endless Wall : Printer Boy (5.11)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: WARNING - Ditto the previous comment about the death block. Why wasn't that thing pitched when the route went in? It is only held in by a baseball-sized rock and is actually fractured in half. I noticed chalk on it when I carefully climbed around it yesterday. This thing needs to go. In the meantime, resist the temptation to even touch it. A crowbar and a ground crew to keep folks away would be needed to fix this mess.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Beaks and Feet (5.10a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: When you buy cheap down gear you get beaks & feet instead of the fluffy stuff.....


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Jungle : Jungle Mountaineering (5.10a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: FYI - Page 18 of RRR, 5th paragraph indicates that the bolt counts in the book are approximate. On this particular climb there are 5 different alternatives that could be used to access the upper pitches. It would have been nice if the steepness & features on the start of pitch 3 went on for a long ways, but at least it was fun for awhile. There's still quite a bit of room for more moderate multi-pitch action on this wall when someone gets around to doing it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crimpfest Wall : Better Rad than Trad (5.12b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: I suppose a hold could have broken, although that one always seemed kind of hard to me. The holds over the roof are kind of small crimps.


Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Rodeo Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: Free miniguide available here:

www.tetonclimbing.com/pdf/rodeowall.pdf


Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Hoback Shield
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: Free miniguide available here:

www.tetonclimbing.com/pdf/hobackshield.pdf


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