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Member Since: Oct 30, 2007
Last Visit: Sep 16, 2014
Contact tytonic


Point Rank: # 4,878
Total Points: 83
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has tytonic been climbing?










Contributions


All 100 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 33 | Stars 39 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

F.Y.D.

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (14)

Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'

UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden

Jul 20, 2008

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
My gear as of May 09. Time for more draws.

My gear as of May 09. Time for more draws.

tytonic : Rack

Jun 8, 2009

Me on The Eye just before sunset

Me on The Eye just before sunset

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Eye (5.4)

Mar 17, 2009

My rack in early September 2008 after buying 9 mor...

My rack in early September 2008 after buying 9 more cams. Now what do I need?

tytonic : Rack

Sep 5, 2008

View from the top of the first pitch of Steort's R...

View from the top of the first pitch of Steort's Ridge on Dead Snag

tytonic : Views

Aug 5, 2008

Standing in the big hole on Fear of Gear

Standing in the big hole on Fear of Gear

UT : Uinta Mountains : ... : Fear of Gear (5.7)

Jul 28, 2008

Starting F.Y.D.

Starting F.Y.D.

UT : Uinta Mountains : ... : F.Y.D. (5.10c)

Jul 28, 2008

Just exiting the offwidth section and finishing th...

Just exiting the offwidth section and finishing the 2nd pitch

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Crescent Crack (5.7)

Jul 12, 2008

The chains are visible at the top and the first bo...

The chains are visible at the top and the first bolt at the bottom. I painted the fake looking branch so it wasn't bright wihte.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Unknown 5.11d (5.11d)

May 31, 2008

My rack as of early May 2008

My rack as of early May 2008

tytonic : Rack

May 8, 2008

The upper section of Glass Ocean Wall

The upper section of Glass Ocean Wall

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Glass Ocean and Environs

Jan 23, 2008

Solar Eclipse.  Climb the bolted face in the cente...

Solar Eclipse. Climb the bolted face in the center of the photo. Unknown Reality and Objective Reality are the right and left craks respectively.

UT : Saint George : ... : Solar Eclipse (5.9)

Jan 23, 2008

Cyclops is the farthest east route on the sunny si...

Cyclops is the farthest east route on the sunny side. The 2006 Goss guide doesn't have a photo

UT : Saint George : ... : Cyclops (5.10a)

Jan 22, 2008

Black Hole Sun photo taken from the trail.  A shor...

Black Hole Sun photo taken from the trail. A short scramble accesses the ledge at the base of the photo

UT : Saint George : ... : Black Hole Sun (5.8)

Jan 22, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8)
By: tytonic When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments: Never climbed before the flake fell off, but I did it last week. The move into the double crack from the broken flake is very committing. I ended up doing a left hand-foot match while holding myself on a single finger crystal with my right hand. My biggest surprise was the bulge crux above the double cracks. I was placing .75 camalots in the area described in the guide as "hands." Do you know anyone with hands the size of a .75 camalot?


Location: tytonic : Rack : Photo
By: tytonic When: Sep 5, 2008

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Comments: Can't argue with that. I always need to climb more


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Fear of Gear (5.7)
By: tytonic When: Jul 28, 2008

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Comments: This is an easy route with big holds the whole way. Like a lot of quartizie routes very little crack climbing technique is required. I didn't jam once. The middle section takes big gear. I placed a #4 C4 camalot, a #9 WC hex, and a #3 C4 camalot. The crux is probably getting off the ground and into the crack.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : High Dive (5.9+)
By: tytonic When: Jul 17, 2008

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Comments: This is a great route! From the block at the top of Lord of the Long Arms there are 3 pins as shown in the Ruckman guide and then one bolt on the right, which is not in the guide, just before you reach a small ledge. Once to the ledge make sure the small pro is handy because that is where the small crack starts. I'll agree with the previous post that the route is discontinuous, but only until you reach the crack system I just mentioned. After that the line follows the wall's natural weakness... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Unknown 5.11d (5.11d)
By: tytonic When: May 31, 2008

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Comments: It's basically a boulder problem with bolts. I was able to hang draws on bolts 2 and 3 easily from the side and my belayer stood near the first bolt.

DON'T grab the block left of the 4th bolt marked with an X. The X means scary loose block not bomber hold.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Sweet and Low (5.5)
By: tytonic When: Dec 3, 2007

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Comments: I've done this route a couple of times over the summer, and I'd have to say it's a little harder than the staircase at the mall. Since the easiest thing I've climbed is a 5.6, I can't give an accurate rating, but this is way easier than any local 5.6 sport route I've done. It's a good route if you are taking someone out for a first time climbing experience. I'm sure the easy climbing and easy access are the major factors contributing to its popularity.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crack in the Woods (5.9)
By: tytonic When: Nov 24, 2007

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Comments: Fun route that would be better if it was longer and didn't have the chimney start. 5.8+ sounds like a good rating. The last 10-15 feet are really easy. Didn't have time to do Hand Jive. That just gives me an excuse to go climbing again. I agree that TCU's or other small cams woudld be great. I didn't have any and would've liked them.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Red Light District (5.10a)
By: tytonic When: Oct 30, 2007

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Comments: Bolts 3, 4, and 5 are spinners. Consequently, I lost a little mental edge while climbing.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: your top rope solo deviceClimbing Gear DiscussiontytonicMay 9, 2012
re: Climbers in/out of Medical School?General ClimbingtytonicSep 23, 2011
re: Airport SecurityGeneral ClimbingtytonicSep 21, 2010
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