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Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Kanaranzi Buttress (East Fa... : Kanaranzi Right (5.9+)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Nov 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: --Spoiler Alert--
The secret hold is somewhere partway up the cliff. That is to say, you have to climb up to get to it. Hope that helps!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6) : Photo
By: Tyson S Arp When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's certainly A horn, just not the one to rappel off. Anyway it looks like it's being used as protection here.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Witch : Midnight Rider (5.11+) : Photo
By: Tyson S Arp When: Dec 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well???
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : South Park : Cartman's Mom (WI4+)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Jan 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Indeed, perhaps I misread. Thanks for setting me straight!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Picket Fence : Sickle : 5.3 route on Sickle (5.3 PG13)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Oct 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice addition, Joel! Angela and I've been wanting to hop on this one for a while but just never quite get around to it! So much rock, so little time!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Photo
By: Tyson S Arp When: Aug 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome shot, Brad!!!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Tent Peg : Tent Peg (5.7) : Photo
By: Tyson S Arp When: Jul 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot, Joel! There ain't nothin' like pinchin' crystals in the needles!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Sunny Day (5.5)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Jun 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt like more work than your usual 5.5, but then again it's in Vedauwoo! The crack gets wide before it's all over (think knees and thighs) so you might want a #4 and/or #4.5 Camalot as well.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Powder Puff (5.4)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Jun 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely do the Corbel Exit if you can talk yourself into it! It's only one move, but boy is it fun.
If you're chicken like me, a carefully laid runner can be tied around the corbel for some protection. There is a chance this would hold a fall, but mostly it just gives you a little peace of mind, since your last piece of pro will be well below you by the time you get to the corbel. Realistically, the corbel sits above a large enough ledge that if you feel like you're not going to make it you... more >>
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Three : International Chimney (5.6 R) : Photo
By: Tyson S Arp When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice perspective on Station Thirteen! Shows off the east chimney very well.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Meat Counter : Goat Skin (5.7)
By: Tyson S Arp When: May 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahh, my first climb in the Black Hills... I agree, it kinda sucks. It took my wife and I nearly three hours to find this route since we'd never been in the area before. (We were one gully over almost the entire time!) Angela ended up slipping into a hole while we were hiking around and tore the crap out of her leg on some sharp crystals. Then after all that effort the route is short and quite unremarkable! To top things off, we ended up being late for dinner with my brother!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Station 13 : East Chimney (5.7 PG13) : Photo
By: Tyson S Arp When: Apr 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hadn't considered the use of a large cam for the second pitch. I probably just didn't have one as I usually don't carry that size unless I'm sure I'm gonna need it. You may want to add that comment to the bottom of the route page so others can easily see it.
I totally agree with your comments about the Conn's. Their routes continue to inspire and amaze me every time I visit the Black Hills!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Station 13 : East Chimney (5.7 PG13)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Apr 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: You'll find a few more photos of the route here.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Three : International Chimney (5.6 R)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Apr 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I climbed this route, I did the traditional 5.6 second pitch that starts from the southern end of the corridor. Though it looks unlikely, it is possible to get in some small gear and then throw yourself into the squeeze chimney. Ten to fifteen feet of grunting later and you'll find and easy scramble to the summit. I got a good chuckle when reading the new Extreme Angles guidebook to the Needles because they rate that move into the squeeze chimney 5.9! Though the leap was a bit freaky an... more >>
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Four : Sprire Four (5.4)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Apr 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A big Thank You to whomever replaced the old button heads on the rappel route! It was a nice improvement to a popular route.
I've got plenty of Spire Four photos and stories at my website!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Two : Jan and Jane Route (5.6 PG13) : Photo
By: Tyson S Arp When: Mar 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad you could put my photo to good use! Looks like a fun route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've uploaded a topo of this route based on photos I took a year ago when my wife and I climbed this route. I would love to update the topo to reflect the current condition of the route. If those of you that have been up on it recently doing repairs could contact me with information on any new hardware, I would certainly add it to the drawing.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Mar 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't answer all your questions, Nick, but it seems like linking the pitches as you describe should work. There certainly was an extra anchor in the middle of the fourth pitch. It'd be kinda a shame, though, to pass up the only nice ledge on the whole route! :)
Your suggested rack sounds pretty good, however, I would strongly suggest adding another set of the med-large offset nuts--they fit extremely well!
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Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 9. Chimney Buttress : X (5.8)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Mar 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: By "original" I am referring to the rating in the first guidebook for the park called "Prairie Walls" by Don Hynek & Eric Landmann. This book was published in 1989 and reprinted in 1993. Since then, ratings have been changed for many routes in the newer guidebooks that include Blue Mounds. Interestingly, however, most ratings have been bumped up recently and not down. Yes, it may not be an 8+, but I do think it is harder than Obvious Crack and Old Stump which are both 7's.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire : North East Ridge (5.7)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Feb 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've got several photos and a trip report here.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3) : Photo
By: Tyson S Arp When: Feb 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The day after we climbed Zenyatta we walked a little way up the wash towards the Gossips to shoot a series of photos of the route. I used my Canon Digital Rebel with some crappy old zoom I got as a hand-me-down shooting at 163mm. The original files are 2048 X 3072, so they're quite detailed--you can make out about every gear placement on the route. I did stitch the files together to make a super detailed photographic topo of the route, but I just haven't got around to posting it on the web ye... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Feb 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad to hear that I wasn't just losing it up there! Take a look and see what you think. I know there is a line of scars leading up a thin seam above the existing pendulum point--what condition these scars are in I do not know. Hopefully they are in good enough shape that they can be climbed with clean gear. If so, I am almost certain there is an old hole where there used to be a drilled angle just above where the seam ends. This would put one in a much better position to transition into the... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Feb 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sam, perhaps you and I are talking about different pitches--or I had some serious blinders on when I climbed the thing. I've uploaded a photo of the third pitch (as described in the description above) to clarify the part of the route I was talking about. As you can see I've indicated on the photo both the lone fixed pin sticking out or the rock and the obvious hole above that I'm assuming was used as the original pendulum point. Are you saying a pendulum isn't necessary here? If so I must ha... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Feb 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My wife and I climbed Zenyatta hammerless in March 2006 and found the climb to be in pretty sorry condition--in definite need of some maintainence. When the park ruled against hammers and bolts I thought "Well, there goes Zenyatta Entrada." I'm glad to here that you are going to be allowed to replace the anchors and some of the bolts on the route. I hope there has been some discussion about moving/replacing the fixed pendulum point. It appeared that there used to be fixed gear much higher th... more >>
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7)
By: Tyson S Arp When: Feb 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've got a trip report and a bunch of photos from Durrance on my website.
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