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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Dreamscape (5.9+)
By: Tyler King When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: AMEN to Zoso's comment!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Speed Trap : Mach 5 (5.11d)
By: Tyler King When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried to tighten bolt 3 this morning. It wasn't budging...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Lower Wall : Ionic Bonding (5.11a)
By: Tyler King When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 by itself is one of the steepest (and funnest IMO) 9's in the canyon. But definately a 9+. Might feel like a 10- if your not in your game.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Arm and Hammer (5.11c)
By: Tyler King When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Route. It might be blasphemy to say this but I liked the 4th pitch a bit more even than the Zion Curtain!!! (gasp). Do as Boissal recommends and make sure you save at least a number 2 for the roof. Also put on a long runner. After you have gone around the roof move on to the slab and go to the right of the tree(there is another hand crack directly below the tree) and flip the rope over the top of the roof rather than around it. Run it out to the anchors if you can or you may be lowerin... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Mind Blow (5.10d R)
By: Tyler King When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route will blow your mind! So glad I pushed myself to finally get on it...
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Location: UT : Saint George : Bluff Street Cracks : Deface Crack (5.10a)
By: Tyler King When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The offwidth takes a nice armbar, and by time your feet hit the off-width section you have some crimpers and then the thin hand crack. 1st offwidth section I've ever done that didn't amount to alot of groveling and cursing (coincidentally it was also my 1st offwidth on a sandstone crack). It was actually enjoyable, believe it or not!
And yes, the corner crack is available if you absolutely need it...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Maverick Line (5.10 PG13)
By: Tyler King When: Dec 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like it is recommended for the first few moves to use the arete to the left. TR'd this today and only used the arete for the first move off of the ledge. Does continuing to use the arete make it much easier? If so I would buy the 10- grade. Cool moves either way.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Kermit's Wad (5.10a)
By: Tyler King When: Oct 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is not too runout any more (just a little between bolts 1 and 2 on the easiest slab section). It has, I believe, 7 bolts (not sure when they were added). A #2 cam is deemed prudent for the starting moves. excellent line, especially near the top from the crux to the last bolt! (last 4 bolts)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : Exsqueeze Me (5.11d)
By: Tyler King When: Oct 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed. 11d? I was on TR but still I struggled on some 11a slabs and only fell off this once... I thought it would be more slabby. I will rate the difficulty after I lead it though...
On another note: this is a really fun climb. At least TR it from the Coffin chains, a draw in the top bolt is nice too :)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Smitty's Wet Dream (5.9)
By: Tyler King When: Oct 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just did this route and it is not difficult to protect. Just be sure to bring your small TCU's and micro's.
Great Thin Route!!!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Blue Collar Crack (5.9+) : Photo
By: Tyler King When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that Zoso?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Photo
By: Tyler King When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent shot! Was it taken from the "Perhaps" chains?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Photo
By: Tyler King When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have always thought that looked like a sweet line. I wanted to FA it (if/when I ever got good enough) until I saw this pic and the chains... Anyone know if it is a gear or bolted route?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Big Willow Cirque : Giggles (5.8)
By: Tyler King When: Sep 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you talking about the notch? If so, wow! It was scary to go down it when we were there. We left a large purple sling around a rock at the top and rapped down as far as a 70m would take us. There was also a ton of extremely dangerous rockfall on the talus that leads to the Lone Peak Cirque. Check out the pic on the Big Willow Cirque area page. Hmm...I wonder why there is so much activity up there...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Beachball Crag : His Feet Smell (5.10c)
By: Tyler King When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool roof. If you go left it is much easier. Like 10-. Going straight up like shown in the Ruckman guide is 10b/c. The holds are thin and far apart, especially to pull a roof with.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Beachball Crag : Sneak-a-Peak Arete (5.9- R)
By: Tyler King When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Thin and beautiful rock! If it were longer it would be a classic! As mentioned there is deckfall potential just before you get the second piece in, beware. After that it isn't really runout. Mostly small cams / TCU's. I set some directional micros for my second piece.
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Location: Ben Folsom : First Photo Album : Photo
By: Tyler King When: Sep 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's some good looking limestone. Your own private wall you say, hmm... nice!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dark Star Gully : Fine Arete (5.11b)
By: Tyler King When: Aug 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of bolts! Great for an aspiring 11 leader. Good holds, more pumpy than anything.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : After The Fall: aka Totally... (5.9)
By: Tyler King When: Aug 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route with a wide variety of climbing! The route sews up nice and has solid hands the whole way, even more if you are solid at hand/fist jamming. It seems to be cleaning up. There was only one section with some gravel in a groove. There are 3 flakes that are marked X, but you don't need them if you are climbing the crack properly, not that I would know how to do that! :)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Better than Bitter (5.10b)
By: Tyler King When: Aug 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome Climb. One of the best low sport 10's in the canyon! The last bolt is still a spinner. I will be returning shortly for the redpoint and will tighten the nut. I wasted too much energy searching for holds in the dark at the bottom, yes this is a pumpy climb!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Diminishing Returns (5.11b)
By: Tyler King When: Aug 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, harder than Waxman, but no, W&W is not a 10b! But, yes W&W is soft for 11b. DR is not too bad if you know the beta. If you don't know the sequence it will be MUCH harder. My climbing partner fought at the first move. After we figured out the beta he went again and was amazed how much easier it was than he had thought.
Great reachy moves! Don't miss this climb if you are in the area. It is very consistent through the whole climb. Think of it as a bolted boulder problem.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Industrial Wall : Ignominious Demise (5.10b)
By: Tyler King When: Aug 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second bolt is smashed from rockfall. I ran the first 3 bolts on Hoffa Finger and then traversed under the roof to avoid the deck fall potential runout on ID. Nice climb. 1st roof is crux.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Jailbait (5.9+)
By: Tyler King When: Aug 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb on beautiful rock, and there's not a lot of rock in BCC that I classify as beautiful. The gear is tricky. Perhaps some small tricams would also be nice for the horizontal cracks, mine were too big :(
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Hangover, Original... (5.9+)
By: Tyler King When: Aug 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If touch up is a 5.9+ than Gordons Hangover is a 5.10- or maybe a 10a, I'm not sure of the difference! Great crack with some awesome moves. The undercling traverse is sweet and the hand jam on the bulge above is difficult if your not a hand jamming expert, especially because of the awkward feet. As 1 pitch it is long and excellent!
- EDIT: Ok so after talking to tenesmus I thought I should add this disclaimer: The crux on this climb will feel harder if you are not super solid with hand jam ...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Dream Slate (5.10a)
By: Tyler King When: Aug 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there a better 10a in BCC? Not pumpy just thin and technical. Instead of placing the cam just make one more move. This section is the easiest part of the climb and has the best holds. I placed it my first time only to ask myself why as soon as I made the next easy move to the bolt...
Didn't see the loose rock. Maybe it is off to the right though.
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