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Rock Climbing Photo: Scooby Snacks


Member Since: Jul 8, 2012
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Tyler W
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Point Rank: # 3,614
Total Points: 159
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 527 | Routes 8 | Areas 1 | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 77 | Stars 242 | Ratings 163
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Dancing Fox (5.12a)
By: Tyler W When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments: Hold at the crux was broken, according to a friend the route now goes about 5.12 c/d


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Graffiti Patient (5.12b)
By: Tyler W When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: The crux is definitely that fourth bolt deadpoint. I feel like you just don't get a chance to rest your right arm at all up to that point, and your power is gone from the big moves earlier.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Bridge Area : Hit Man (5.11b)
By: Tyler W When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Hardest 11b ever. Crux felt at least V4.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Brain Doner (5.11b)
By: Tyler W When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: Incredibly fun technical climbing. Keep going when you think you're out of gas, there is a solid rest up high!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Scratchin' for the Loomer (5.11d)
By: Tyler W When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: Couldn't even finish it. Insanely difficult. Hardest 11 I've ever been on.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : 5 Mile Boulders : Caress (V4-5)
By: Tyler W When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: This feels closer to V2/V3 max for LCC standards.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8)
By: Tyler W When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: Took a few big running slab whips on Pearls Before Swine before I realized the route actually goes to the left...next time.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Cabbage Patch : Fat Albert Gang (V3)
By: Tyler W When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Classic at the grade. I don't think it's harder than V3.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon
By: Tyler W When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: How late in the year does it generally stay climbable?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - The Pile : Dog Pile (5.10b)
By: Tyler W When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: I think with the right sequence this isn't any harder than 10c. Climb above the fourth bolt to better holds to clip from.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Captain Jack (5.7)
By: Tyler W When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: Your comment does nothing to address the fact that my partner and I thought the route had fewer opportunities for protection than the description leads climbers to believe. You guys can continue to think whatever you want. TNB's article has nothing to do with this situation. I came entirely prepared for a mixed climb and ready to use some "ingenuity" with pro placements. There just aren't weaknesses in the rock for a long ways, and that should either be bolted or rated as R.

To anyone pla... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Captain Jack (5.7)
By: Tyler W When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: I did have a rack, myself and my second couldn't find any gear placements for very long runout stretches. I expected there to be adequate pro since the description didn't mention otherwise.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Captain Jack (5.7)
By: Tyler W When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: Two huge run outs after the bolts of about 20-25 ft. each. There should be another bolt on this climb to make up for the lack of pro or change the safety rating.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Maple Corridor : EIS (5.10b)
By: Tyler W When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: Not sure if a hold broke off or something, but clipping the 4th?/5th? bolt is extremely difficult. At least .10c/d.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall : Perestroika (5.10c)
By: Tyler W When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic route! As with every other route on this wall, I wish the first bolt was a little lower, since the lower sections on most of these routes are the thinnest parts. From the first to the second bolt is a great balancey crux up to the ledge, and then a crazy mantle onto the ledge followed by awkward high feet to reach the next bolt. After that, unfortunately easy climbing.

Favorite route on the wall.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Physical Therapy (5.9)
By: Tyler W When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Very fun .9, perfect warm-up for the other Division climbs.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Deep End (5.11a)
By: Tyler W When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: SUPER fun route from beginning to end, milk the rests but move fast through good holds with solid feet. Great for lapping.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Black Hole (5.10a)
By: Tyler W When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Fun route, unfortunately the holds through the thin middle section are pretty wet right now. Bring a towel or you'll have to use some pretty bad holds to get through that section (or cheat over left to the crack).


Location: UT : Saint George : Moe's Valley : Device Ignitor Boulder : Device Ignitor Right (V3)
By: Tyler W When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: ^^^ Seconded.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Apostasy (5.10a)
By: Tyler W When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: Perfect warm-up for the other climbs in the area.


Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Banana Dance (5.11d)
By: Tyler W When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: Amazing route! Hard moves in the beginning section to the third bolt and clipping those tiny anchor chains was an enormous pain.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Tombstone Bullets (5.10c)
By: Tyler W When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: Crux is at the top before the anchors. Really not a hard climb, use the no-hands rest 15 ft from the top and you're golden.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Winky and Waxman Go Bolting (5.11b)
By: Tyler W When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: There's absolutely a V2 move on this route (you just have to make sure not to go right). Very contrived but enjoyable. Essentially just a highball.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Hollow Man (5.9)
By: Tyler W When: Dec 2, 2012

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Comments: Very slippery holds...not sure I'd call it a "classic" as the guidebooks do. Interesting route though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Stoic Calculus (5.8)
By: Tyler W When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: Agreed. It would really be great if someone put in another bolt lower on this route, especially considering it's kind of a beginner area in the canyon.


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