Comments: I think the reason it was bolted was to protect the somewhat delicate nature of the flake. If you fall and pull the flake down there are going to be several angry locals after your head for ruining one of the best climbs in the area.
Comments: Awesome climb in an awesome setting! Expect a long day and try to pack light. I brought .5-1 c4's and a half rack of nuts and it felt ample. We simuled the whole climb and it took around an hour and a bit to go from Wall Street to the summit. Can be climbed with a 60 meter rope if care is taken on the last rappel to go to skiers left and not down the crack.
For map nerds here is a GPX file of the approach and climb that can be imported into most GPSs. There is some multipathing in areas so... more >>
Comments: I'd be careful about snow levels. In years past the #1 or #2 placement is the only thing protecting you and your climber from being pulled down the snow field in case of a leader fall before the first bolt on the first pitch. From what I remember this part did not take a great nut placement. This would surely be VERY bad if not fatal as it is rather steep and you would hit the rocks below with some speed. If the snow is high enough to clip a bolt right off the ground then the gea... more >>
Comments: I've noticed an abundance of bail gear after the second pitch as of late. I have picked up two bail anchors in this very early season alone. It very well could be that the left route has gotten harder as a LARGE chunk has fallen out over the winter. I personally always finish on the far superior (IMO) 5.9 to the right. I would like to tell everyone that there is a bolted anchor down to the right (Sort of near the little scrub tree) at the top of Generation X that will get you to ledges that ... more >>
Comments: I'm pretty sure Rock Climbs of Southwest Montana is wrong. It would be the softest 10c in Montana. Bozeman Rock Climbs lists this climb as 10a and I have to agree that it is more along those lines.