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Member Since: Jul 12, 2009
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact twellman


Point Rank: # 2,107
Total Points: 258
Last Year: 53
Last 30 Days: 12
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has twellman been climbing?










Contributions


All 783 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvments | Comments 123 | Posts 2 | Stars 554 | Ratings 84
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Dolt (5.10a)
By: twellman When: Jan 15, 2010

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Comments: What's the deal with the sub three stars on this one? It is long, exposed, sustained in the last half, and just generally fun as hell!


Location: NH : Rumney
By: twellman When: Jan 14, 2010

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Comments: Hello Everyone

Im wondering about climbing at Rumney mid-winter. I would guess there are some cliffs that are better than others, in terms of like sunshine and snowmelt, etc. Does anyone have any advice on this? Probably main cliff and jimmy cliff are good destinations, any others?


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Walking the Devil (5.12)
By: twellman When: Dec 2, 2009

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Comments: Another cool name for this would have been...

Off width your head!

Haha. I saw this in the new guidebook. Nice going, Lee.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners
By: twellman When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: I was at the top of the gully the other day climbing skunks, and noticed a few routes left of it that I couldnt seem to find here. There is a line of bolts going straight up the arete around the corner to the left of skunks (looks hard!), and there is a monster chimney even further left that had some bolts. Probably these are in the guidebook, but it would be cool if someone familiar with them added the info here too.


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things You Should Have Lear... (5.6)
By: twellman When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: If there is no one on the route to the right, you can throw a long sling on one of those bolts and traverse back left onto this route, to avoid the groundfall potential when passing that missing second bolt.

Or, you could climb one of the other 10,000 awesome routes at rumney!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Nice Land (5.10a)
By: twellman When: Jul 27, 2009

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Comments: A very fun and varied route. The crux is getting off the ground, or so I thought. There's also some fun and tricky moves in the corner near the top.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Finland (5.11a)
By: twellman When: Jul 27, 2009

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Comments: I agree that it felt hard for an 11a. I think the awkward sandy topout at the top of the first section was the harder part. Otherwise, the opening power moves are tons of fun, and the stemming and laybacks near the top were classic. Definitely worth doing.

It is possible to set up a toprope for this one after doing niceland (10a) to the left, but you have to put draws on most of the bolts as you belay down, then unclip them as you climb.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Amore Eel (5.10b)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Be careful of the tree behind and underneath you when clipping the 2nd bolt... if you fall backward at all, it might be in your path.

Otherwise, a fun route. Power crux, and fun un-rumney-like quartz at the top. Well done, Mark.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Man With a Hueco in His Tig... (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: An awesome short route! Gets easier as you go, so don't stop cranking! The start is very powerful and bouldery, with a few options. The clips arent too hard if you find some good heel hooks and or knee bars.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Trigger Happy (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Solid 5.9 Like so many other climbs to the right, from the last bolt to the anchors might be the crux... who stole the holds from the top of this cliff?


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Dirty Dozen (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: I dont understand why the ratings arent better for this climb... It is long, technical, pumpy, well-bolted, all the elements of a classic climb. I think this is my favorite route at triple corners. There is a 25 foot runout between bolts 4 and 5, with about 5.3 climbing in between. I guess you could throw a sling around the tree midway if you don't feel like dying, but I'm pretty sure I encountered harder moves on the hike up.

DO THIS ROUTE!!!


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Perfectly Blunt (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Don't make the mistake of trying to go straight to the anchors after the last bolt... the micro-crimps quickly fade into nothing. It is much easier, though not easy, to move right to the arete then head up. The description in the guidebook is perfect... technical and devious!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Easily Aroused (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: I was climbing at dusk with a friend recently, and I hopped on this with my headlamp thinking it was one of the 5.7's that abound in this area... I remember thinking that it felt more like a 5.10 with some tough clips... so it must have been this route! Definitely some small holds but sufficient feet.


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Bolt And Run (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: It looks so slabby from the bottom, but doesnt feel that way while you're on it... maybe the lack of handholds. Overall, a nice Rumney-esque technique-requisite route.


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Milktoast (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: About halfway up, you can find perhaps the best undercling I've ever laid my hands on, and get quite a good rest before attacking the few bouldery moves to conquer the bulge.


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Romancing the Stone (5.10c)
By: twellman When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: An excellent climb! I'd say the climbing tends to get easier as you go, but you also get more pumped, so it feels like a nice constant difficulty the whole way through if you take your level of exhaustion into account. I'll be back on this again in the near future.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Espresso (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: I think you can skip the crimpy crux, which is below the 2nd to last bolt, with a fun dyno. The hold to the left of the 2nd to last bolt is good, and it's a fun fall if it turns out not to be good enough when you are pumping out!


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Flying Hawaiian (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: I did this route this weekend, and it was amazing! Probably the hardest but most fulfilling 11b I have done. The rests definitely give you a little too much time to look up and start worrying, but as you make the clips you'll find yourself saying, well that wasnt as bad as it looked like it would be.

I was a bit confused by the topout though. I've seen many people mention a mantel move to exit. There are two triangular-looking outcrops above the last bolt, and I used the lower one, throwing a h... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Chains as TR anchors: a problem?General ClimbingtwellmanOct 11, 2012
re: Bolting at Dumplington Hill, Raymond NHEastern StatestwellmanJul 12, 2012

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

I Claudius 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

CO : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff

Wholesome Fullback 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Whiskey Peak

Physical Graffiti 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Riding Hood Wall

Caustic Cock 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Cannibal Crag

They Died Laughing 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End

Thin Air 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face

Whip Tide 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

NH : Rumney : Waimea

Smokestack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

NH : Rumney : New Wave

The Eldorado Coral Club 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : Big Kahuna Pillar

Sour Mash 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Black Velvet Wall

Recompense 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area

The Beast Flake 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area

Black Jack Crack 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b V2 5+

NH : Rumney : ... : The Black Jack Boulder

Cro-Magnon 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

MA : Leominster Area : ... : Fisherman's Wall

Moby Grape 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area

Black Dike 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b WI4-5 M3

NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs

Nutcracker 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall

Winter Heat 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Winter Heat Wall

Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Frog's Head 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

I Just Do Eyes 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : The Back Forty

Skywalker 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

North America : Canada : ... : Shannon Falls

Tutu Man 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : Sector D'or et Bleu

Underdog 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

NH : Rumney : Main Cliff

Sweet Polly Purebred 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

NH : Rumney : Main Cliff

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