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Member Since: Jul 12, 2009
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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twellman
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Point Rank: # 2,601
Total Points: 274
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 5
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 972 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 129 | Posts 3 | Stars 722 | Ratings 96
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Sesame Street (5.10c)
By: twellman When: Mar 1, 2010

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Comments: This route is quite long and fun. However, I would say many of the words used to describe it here could be used even more appropriately to describe Millennium Falcon... multiple cruxes, adventurous, beautiful view, best 10c at Rumney. Both great climbs!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Darth Vader : Storm Troopers (5.12c)
By: twellman When: Feb 21, 2010

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Comments: Whenever I look at this route, I always have trouble imagining how someone would climb it, because the feet look so non-existent. Hopefully this year I will see someone on it. If anyone happens to have a video of someone on it, I would be very interested!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Darth Vader : Jedi Mind Tricks (5.12b)
By: twellman When: Feb 20, 2010

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Comments: So many times have I walked by this and said to myself, some day......

Well some day was today, and it should have been sooner! If you like bouldery, tricky strenuous climbing, this is an awesome climb. And definitely safely bolted. Easy stick clip on first (and second if you want it, though you clip this from a jug). Third clip is tricky but with a good belayer you should be fine.

Clipping the anchors would give some bad rope drag, so I jumped and then lowered off the biner on the third bolt.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Little Big Man (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Feb 16, 2010

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Comments: Lots of fun climbing all jammed into about 20 feet. A variety of techniques, too.

It is possible to skip a large part of the start by climbing up the ramp on the right into the corner below the right-facing jug flake, then going straight for the jug! Probably less fun, but a nice variation. Probably good to stick clip 2nd bolt first.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Goldbug (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Feb 15, 2010

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Comments: Matt, I did that link up today. It was quite fun. I also did the link up of golddigger to goldbug corner finish before it, for a little criss-cross action. The clipping is a bit weird, but both are possible and fun. The crux of golddigger felt pretty hard for 5.8... some very small holds as you cross that upper face.


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Parking Lot Wall
By: twellman When: Feb 11, 2010

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Comments: I think it was different than centerfold... it was to the right of the gully that is to the right of percolator. I'm planning on going up this weekend, so I'll try to get some pics to make it more clear.


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Parking Lot Wall
By: twellman When: Feb 11, 2010

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Comments: There is a good route that is very close to the parking lot that I did a few weeks ago and I dont see listed here, though maybe it's part of the Meadow Flows. It is almost straight uphill if you are standing at the pay station, and starts with 30 or so feet of good vertical ice, followed by about 60 feet of easy slabby stuff. From the start, if you go around to the left and uphill, you end up in a big iced up gully, which is perhaps Scottish Gully. So, what is the route that I climbed then?

It ... more >>


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs
By: twellman When: Jan 29, 2010

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Comments: Im thinking of trying ice at Rumney this Sunday, Jan 31, but not sure how the conditions are going to be after the recent rain we had. If anyone had some info on the current ice conditions, it would be greatly appreciated!


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Dolt (5.10a)
By: twellman When: Jan 15, 2010

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Comments: What's the deal with the sub three stars on this one? It is long, exposed, sustained in the last half, and just generally fun as hell!


Location: NH : *Rumney
By: twellman When: Jan 14, 2010

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Comments: Hello Everyone

Im wondering about climbing at Rumney mid-winter. I would guess there are some cliffs that are better than others, in terms of like sunshine and snowmelt, etc. Does anyone have any advice on this? Probably main cliff and jimmy cliff are good destinations, any others?


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Walking the Devil (5.12)
By: twellman When: Dec 2, 2009

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Comments: Another cool name for this would have been...

Off width your head!

Haha. I saw this in the new guidebook. Nice going, Lee.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners
By: twellman When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: I was at the top of the gully the other day climbing skunks, and noticed a few routes left of it that I couldnt seem to find here. There is a line of bolts going straight up the arete around the corner to the left of skunks (looks hard!), and there is a monster chimney even further left that had some bolts. Probably these are in the guidebook, but it would be cool if someone familiar with them added the info here too.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things You Should Have Lear... (5.6)
By: twellman When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: If there is no one on the route to the right, you can throw a long sling on one of those bolts and traverse back left onto this route, to avoid the groundfall potential when passing that missing second bolt.

Or, you could climb one of the other 10,000 awesome routes at rumney!


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Prudential : Nice Land (5.10b)
By: twellman When: Jul 27, 2009

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Comments: A very fun and varied route. The crux is getting off the ground, or so I thought. There's also some fun and tricky moves in the corner near the top.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Prudential : Finland (5.11a/b)
By: twellman When: Jul 27, 2009

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Comments: I agree that it felt hard for an 11a. I think the awkward sandy topout at the top of the first section was the harder part. Otherwise, the opening power moves are tons of fun, and the stemming and laybacks near the top were classic. Definitely worth doing.

It is possible to set up a toprope for this one after doing niceland (10a) to the left, but you have to put draws on most of the bolts as you belay down, then unclip them as you climb.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Amore Eel (5.10b)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Be careful of the tree behind and underneath you when clipping the 2nd bolt... if you fall backward at all, it might be in your path.

Otherwise, a fun route. Power crux, and fun un-rumney-like quartz at the top. Well done, Mark.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Man With a Hueco in His Tig... (5.11a)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: An awesome short route! Gets easier as you go, so don't stop cranking! The start is very powerful and bouldery, with a few options. The clips arent too hard if you find some good heel hooks and or knee bars.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Trigger Happy (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Solid 5.9 Like so many other climbs to the right, from the last bolt to the anchors might be the crux... who stole the holds from the top of this cliff?


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Dirty Dozen (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: I dont understand why the ratings arent better for this climb... It is long, technical, pumpy, well-bolted, all the elements of a classic climb. I think this is my favorite route at triple corners. There is a 25 foot runout between bolts 4 and 5, with about 5.3 climbing in between. I guess you could throw a sling around the tree midway if you don't feel like dying, but I'm pretty sure I encountered harder moves on the hike up.

DO THIS ROUTE!!!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Perfectly Blunt (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Don't make the mistake of trying to go straight to the anchors after the last bolt... the micro-crimps quickly fade into nothing. It is much easier, though not easy, to move right to the arete then head up. The description in the guidebook is perfect... technical and devious!


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Easily Aroused (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: I was climbing at dusk with a friend recently, and I hopped on this with my headlamp thinking it was one of the 5.7's that abound in this area... I remember thinking that it felt more like a 5.10 with some tough clips... so it must have been this route! Definitely some small holds but sufficient feet.


Location: NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Bolt And Run (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: It looks so slabby from the bottom, but doesnt feel that way while you're on it... maybe the lack of handholds. Overall, a nice Rumney-esque technique-requisite route.


Location: NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Milktoast (5.10c/d)
By: twellman When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: About halfway up, you can find perhaps the best undercling I've ever laid my hands on, and get quite a good rest before attacking the few bouldery moves to conquer the bulge.


Location: NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Romancing the Stone (5.10c)
By: twellman When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: An excellent climb! I'd say the climbing tends to get easier as you go, but you also get more pumped, so it feels like a nice constant difficulty the whole way through if you take your level of exhaustion into account. I'll be back on this again in the near future.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Espresso (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: I think you can skip the crimpy crux, which is below the 2nd to last bolt, with a fun dyno. The hold to the left of the 2nd to last bolt is good, and it's a fun fall if it turns out not to be good enough when you are pumping out!


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