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Member Since: Jul 12, 2009
Last Visit: Sep 6, 2016
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twellman
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Point Rank: # 2,622
Total Points: 274
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 982 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 129 | Posts 3 | Stars 732 | Ratings 96
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : WM: Albany Area : Albany Slabs : Fool's For A Day (5.10 PG13)
By: twellman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: John, what is the difference between this and Reeling', in terms of exact line? The new guide says they're basically the same, but Fools is what they named the retro'ed version. If they are indeed mostly the same, perhaps they should be combined into one route, including the history, to avoid confusion.


Location: NH : WM: Albany Area : Albany Slabs : The Tao of Dow (5.8+ PG13)
By: twellman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: This is a fun climb. Long, a couple tricky sections, and mediocre protection. There was only one very old 1/4" bolt about halfway up. There's also a thread about 1/3 of the way up. Tricams and smaller nuts were helpful.


Location: NH : WM: Albany Area : Albany Slabs : Reelin' In the Fears (5.10 X)
By: twellman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: This route is now bolted (Fools For a Day), although it is still quite spicy. Seven bolts to a 2-bolt rap anchor, with crux moves about ten feet above the second to last bolt. Definitely not X anymore, but perhaps PG13 with some big whipper potential.

Fun smeary slab climbing!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Kennel Wall : I'm Talking to The Dog (5.9+)
By: twellman When: Jun 16, 2012

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Comments: Hard for 5.9! I was looking for a warm-up, and was quite warm by the top!

Should Ya Moe be a separate listed route perhaps? We should add it, so I can give it one star, rounding up from a half star. Super hard for 5.9+, and the whole time I just wanted to traverse over to I'm Talking but felt guilty so I followed the un-natural line to the anchors... indeeed quite lame!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Starship Enterprise : The Romulan Route (5.11a)
By: twellman When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: There is a bolt anchor. Apparently (according to the ARI section in the back of climbing magazine), Tim Kemple sr finished her up one day after the forest fire and the old anchor was burned! So he replaced it. Thanks Tim.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Stone Wall Boulder : Reflection Terminal (V1)
By: twellman When: Dec 4, 2011

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Comments: It is really fun to start on this, and move right at the big jug, traversing over to super chalk and finishing up that. I though it was about V3, adds a bit of pump factor, and it is super low-ball!


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 1. The Cosmic Crag : Gravitational Mass (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: This route is a nice change from all of the more or less slabby routes that get you up to the Cosmic Crag ledge. Definitely worth doing, if not for the climb itself then for the nice feeling of actually topping out the whole cliff! If you can believe it, the view gets even better up there.


Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : Q Wall : Sloping Staircase (5.10d PG13)
By: twellman When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: This is a great route, despite its shortness. I would definitely recommend to stick-clip, and if you do, the route is super safe and well-bolted the rest of the way. Definitely agree that is feels like a long boulder problem, as the moves keep coming and offer little rest until you're standing below the finishing ledge, trying to shake off the pump and figure out the mantle.


Location: NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Sky Pilot (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Sep 3, 2011

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Comments: This route is pretty fun, though the 5.11 climbing is really just a traverse from the 2nd bolt clipping jug to the 3rd bolt clipping jug. The sequence of holds on the steep lower section makes for a nice flow of climbing though.

I think the route could benefit from a bolt between the 3rd bolt and the first piton. I imagine many people make it there with a good pump going, and it is certainly possible to fall on the way to the piton. Yeah, you can protect it with gear, but if all moves at Rumney... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Starship Enterprise : Space...Madness (5.12b)
By: twellman When: Aug 28, 2011

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Comments: Finally tried this route the other day, and it was quite fun. There is some chossy rock between the first and second bolts, but it will probably clean up nice with more traffic. The dyno and moves after it are quite hard! Overall, a nice variety of techniques... I used at least one heel-hook, kneebar, undercling, mantle, (attempted) dyno, and tricky gaston!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Starship Enterprise : One Size Fits All (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Aug 28, 2011

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Comments: This route is really fun. I thought the first section, moving out right over the roof, was the crux, though the last couple tricky moves on small holds are 5.11 as well. Pumpy third clip, though there are a couple good jugs right below it. Give it a go!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Starship Enterprise : Yer Anus (5.9)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: Yer Anus was very slick with the humidity today.

:-)

A fun climb with a good variety of moves.


Location: ME : Nubble Lighthouse : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 21, 2011

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Comments: There are some cool problems right there. I think the one in front of the pad is maybe V2 or V3. Tough, slopy topout, especially with tourists looking down at you awkwardly struggle to mantle over the top.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 5. Slabs : Consolation Prize (5.8)
By: twellman When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Pitches 1 and 2 are quite fun, and well protected. There is a little 15 foot section of 5.5ish slab without pro on pitch 2 above the crack, but it is over quickly and easy climbing. The hand crack on pitch 2 is wonderful.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Magic Helmet (5.10b)
By: twellman When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Fun and tricky finish. Not too bad once you figure out where the holds are and how to use them. I found it easier to clip the last bolt from holds just above it.

Also, if you have someone following, it might be good to unclip the second and third bolts, since the rightward position of the second bolt would cause a swing into the tree on the right if one were to fall on the initial slab.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Dirty Dozen (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 13, 2011

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Comments: I think another bolt would be helpful for the sake of safety. It is a bit out of character at Rumney to have such a runout, and most people probably don't carry slings for the tree. It is really a great route though.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Hush, Mama Thrush (5.8)
By: twellman When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: I believe there is a name for when you get a cam stuck and someone else gets it out: BOOTY!

Just sayin...


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : Recompense (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jun 24, 2011

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Comments: There was what looked to be a dried up pool of blood at the belay before the 3rd, dihedral pitch when I climbed this Wed 6/22/11. Anyone know what happened? Did Dracula drop his Nalgene while gettin ready for the dihedral?

An absolutely wonderful, and very well-protected climb.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Diedre Area : Diedre (5.10a) : Photo
By: twellman When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Is this picture flipped left-right? I remember that corner being right-facing...


Location: NH : *Rumney : Monsters from the Id : Cosmic Monsters (5.12a)
By: twellman When: Oct 20, 2010

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Comments: Nice video, Lee. Reminds me how awkward getting up onto that first ledge is, haha.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Yellowknife Buttress : Nanook of the North (5.11c)
By: twellman When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: The top crux is indeed quite hard, and a proud onsight. First, I tried going up left from the hueco jug to the tiny crimp, and then up to the gaston sidepull to the right, but this spit me off. On my second try, I had the hueco in my left hand and a good pocket slightly up to the right, got my left foot high on a good edge, reached up w/ left hand to the sidepull (reachy), then got my left foot up into the hueco jug. There's a small crimp out to the right to get your feet higher, then clip the a... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Captain Fingers (5.11c) : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2010

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Comments: Wow... there are only 4 now, so how many were there, 2? One rope for each bolt! That would be a spicy adventure!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Ali Babbler (5.11c)
By: twellman When: Aug 20, 2010

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Comments: I like this route quite a bit, and definitely think it is worth climbing, despite the fact that there are better routes at the grade. There are always better routes at the grade, but that's not gonna stop me from climbing all those wonderful, uncrowded "worse" ones.

And I think the "vicious stemming," as the description says, sets this route apart from others. Flyin Hawaiian offers stemming, but if you're looking for the vicious stuff you'll find it on Ali Babbler.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Toxic Gumbo (5.8)
By: twellman When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: Is it possible to get to the ledge directly below Millennium Falcon from here? Does this route go just left of that ledge?


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Maria's Variation (5.11a)
By: twellman When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: Lee, when did you sneak gear into that finger slot in the middle of the face... after you got your hands above it? It is pretty much the only solid hold on the face, so I guess you have to balance on the little crimps while you plug the gear?

This variation is really fun, and definitely worth trying on TR after you finish the normal route.


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