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Member Since: Jul 12, 2009
Last Visit: Aug 24, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,130
Total Points: 259
Last Year: 50
Last 30 Days: 1
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has twellman been climbing?










Contributions


All 811 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvments | Comments 124 | Posts 2 | Stars 581 | Ratings 84
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : Q Wall : Sloping Staircase (5.10d PG13)
By: twellman When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: This is a great route, despite its shortness. I would definitely recommend to stick-clip, and if you do, the route is super safe and well-bolted the rest of the way. Definitely agree that is feels like a long boulder problem, as the moves keep coming and offer little rest until you're standing below the finishing ledge, trying to shake off the pump and figure out the mantle.


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Sky Pilot (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Sep 3, 2011

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Comments: This route is pretty fun, though the 5.11 climbing is really just a traverse from the 2nd bolt clipping jug to the 3rd bolt clipping jug. The sequence of holds on the steep lower section makes for a nice flow of climbing though.

I think the route could benefit from a bolt between the 3rd bolt and the first piton. I imagine many people make it there with a good pump going, and it is certainly possible to fall on the way to the piton. Yeah, you can protect it with gear, but if all moves at Rumney... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Starship Enterprise : Space...Madness (5.12b)
By: twellman When: Aug 28, 2011

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Comments: Finally tried this route the other day, and it was quite fun. There is some chossy rock between the first and second bolts, but it will probably clean up nice with more traffic. The dyno and moves after it are quite hard! Overall, a nice variety of techniques... I used at least one heel-hook, kneebar, undercling, mantle, (attempted) dyno, and tricky gaston!


Location: NH : Rumney : Starship Enterprise : One Size Fits All (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Aug 28, 2011

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Comments: This route is really fun. I thought the first section, moving out right over the roof, was the crux, though the last couple tricky moves on small holds are 5.11 as well. Pumpy third clip, though there are a couple good jugs right below it. Give it a go!


Location: NH : Rumney : Starship Enterprise : Yer Anus (5.9)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: Yer Anus was very slick with the humidity today.

:-)

A fun climb with a good variety of moves.


Location: ME : Nubble Lighthouse : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 21, 2011

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Comments: There are some cool problems right there. I think the one in front of the pad is maybe V2 or V3. Tough, slopy topout, especially with tourists looking down at you awkwardly struggle to mantle over the top.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 5. Slabs : Consolation Prize (5.8)
By: twellman When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Pitches 1 and 2 are quite fun, and well protected. There is a little 15 foot section of 5.5ish slab without pro on pitch 2 above the crack, but it is over quickly and easy climbing. The hand crack on pitch 2 is wonderful.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Magic Helmet (5.10a)
By: twellman When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Fun and tricky finish. Not too bad once you figure out where the holds are and how to use them. I found it easier to clip the last bolt from holds just above it.

Also, if you have someone following, it might be good to unclip the second and third bolts, since the rightward position of the second bolt would cause a swing into the tree on the right if one were to fall on the initial slab.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Dirty Dozen (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 13, 2011

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Comments: I think another bolt would be helpful for the sake of safety. It is a bit out of character at Rumney to have such a runout, and most people probably don't carry slings for the tree. It is really a great route though.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Hush, Mama Thrush (5.8)
By: twellman When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: I believe there is a name for when you get a cam stuck and someone else gets it out: BOOTY!

Just sayin...


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : Recompense (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jun 24, 2011

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Comments: There was what looked to be a dried up pool of blood at the belay before the 3rd, dihedral pitch when I climbed this Wed 6/22/11. Anyone know what happened? Did Dracula drop his Nalgene while gettin ready for the dihedral?

An absolutely wonderful, and very well-protected climb.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Diedre Area : Diedre (5.10a) : Photo
By: twellman When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Is this picture flipped left-right? I remember that corner being right-facing...


Location: NH : Rumney : Monsters from the Id : Cosmic Monsters (5.12a)
By: twellman When: Oct 20, 2010

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Comments: Nice video, Lee. Reminds me how awkward getting up onto that first ledge is, haha.


Location: NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress : Nanook of the North (5.11c)
By: twellman When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: The top crux is indeed quite hard, and a proud onsight. First, I tried going up left from the hueco jug to the tiny crimp, and then up to the gaston sidepull to the right, but this spit me off. On my second try, I had the hueco in my left hand and a good pocket slightly up to the right, got my left foot high on a good edge, reached up w/ left hand to the sidepull (reachy), then got my left foot up into the hueco jug. There's a small crimp out to the right to get your feet higher, then clip the a... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Captain Fingers (5.11c) : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2010

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Comments: Wow... there are only 4 now, so how many were there, 2? One rope for each bolt! That would be a spicy adventure!


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Ali Babbler (5.11c)
By: twellman When: Aug 20, 2010

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Comments: I like this route quite a bit, and definitely think it is worth climbing, despite the fact that there are better routes at the grade. There are always better routes at the grade, but that's not gonna stop me from climbing all those wonderful, uncrowded "worse" ones.

And I think the "vicious stemming," as the description says, sets this route apart from others. Flyin Hawaiian offers stemming, but if you're looking for the vicious stuff you'll find it on Ali Babbler.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Toxic Gumbo (5.8)
By: twellman When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: Is it possible to get to the ledge directly below Millennium Falcon from here? Does this route go just left of that ledge?


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Maria's Variation (5.11a)
By: twellman When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: Lee, when did you sneak gear into that finger slot in the middle of the face... after you got your hands above it? It is pretty much the only solid hold on the face, so I guess you have to balance on the little crimps while you plug the gear?

This variation is really fun, and definitely worth trying on TR after you finish the normal route.


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things I Never Learned (5.9)
By: twellman When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: There's a cool boulder problem to the right of the start that you can do on TR after climbing this route. You start under the bulge and make a big throw up to a sharp jug, then move up and left over the bulge back onto things I never learned. Unfortunately, I don't think there is room to put up a whole new route here with this start...


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Love Nest (5.9)
By: twellman When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: Where is the 5.9 crux of this route? I felt like the 5.9 part of to love honor and belay was in the first 20 feet above the ledge, but you would skip this part if you start on drilling... I'll have to check it out next time I'm there.


Location: NH : Rumney : Kennel Wall : The Big Angler (5.11a)
By: twellman When: May 18, 2010

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Comments: There are a couple of big ledges to stand on before the crux if you just take a step off to the right. They allow you to get fully rested before the crux, which then amounts to a quick boulder problem. This one felt quite different than its neighbor to the left, though about equally difficult. Both right on that 10d/11a line, and worth doing.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Man With a Hueco in His Tig... (5.11b)
By: twellman When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: I think this route might actually feel more like 10d, especially when you know the moves... there is no way in hell it is as hard as Flyin Hawaiin. Stick clipping the second bolt, which is not a bad idea with that rock below you, makes it considerably easier.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Lions and Tigers and Bears (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Apr 28, 2010

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Comments: Where do you belay from? The double eyebolt anchor below orangahang? Or the bottom of the slab?


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Holderness Corner : Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b)
By: twellman When: Apr 18, 2010

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Comments: So was the FA done with 2 bolts plus gear, or only 2 bolts on the whole climb?


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Flying Hawaiian (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: Did this route for the second time today, and it was really fun. Definitely more of a mental game than a physical one, but there is just so much good climbing in this one line that you'd be at a loss if you missed out. So get on it!


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