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Member Since: Jul 12, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact twellman

Point Rank: # 2,346
Total Points: 263
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has twellman been climbing?










Contributions


All 848 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 128 | Posts 2 | Stars 610 | Ratings 88
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Airation (5.11a) : Photo
By: twellman When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: Kevin, how did you mislabel yourself as someone else?

Seeing your fingers in those locks makes me want to go climb this again...


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Fish Corner (5.10b V1- R)
By: twellman When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: I also think this is deserving of a lower, stick-clippable bolt. The corner is quite fun, and I think the reason no one climbs it is because all the bolts are after the crux!

Mark, does the bolt need to be a glue-in?


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Mesresha (open project) (5.12+)
By: twellman When: Sep 12, 2012

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Comments: After seeing this route the other day in person, I don't see the big problem with it, as long as the potential loose rock has been thoroughly cleaned, which it sounds like Mike took care of. Although I don't think it'll get much traffic (a 12+ in a sea of classic 10's, with classic 12+'s just up the hill), it is pretty discrete, hiding behind the trees there (except for the red tape! Mike, did you send it yet?). If it's a squeeze, then so are Techno and Aquarius, but no one is going to complain ... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall
By: twellman When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the info Mark. Is it the cut-leaf toothwort, the same one they put up the fence near Flesh for? I think it would be helpful for someone with good knowledge of the rare plants in the area to put some of that info (and photos if possible) here on MP. Most people, including myself, wouldn't know the difference between rare plants and weeds. Maybe we could work that out with someone from the forest service.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall
By: twellman When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know what the deal is with the anchors on top of the tallish section of cliff that is straight up from the bathrooms, very close to the parking lot, about 200 feet left of the Meadows Flow ice climbs? Looks like some pretty dirty chossy rock... maybe they're also for ice climbing?


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Flying Squirrel (5.11a)
By: twellman When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: This route is fun fun fun. The initial swinging boulder problem is very unique climbing!

I am taller (6') and obviously that makes grabbing the first holds easier, but getting your feet up and under you is easier for shorties! I thought 11a was a fair grade, it is a bouldery opening sequence.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows
By: twellman When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Haha I just noticed that the quick clip in the picture is only rated at 11 kN. I guess the number decreases as the clip gets worn. Fixe has some pretty impressive technology these days!


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Cold Feet (5.10 R)
By: twellman When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Seems like that could just as easily make the gear worse... but I hope it does get better so I can lead it next time I'm there!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : No Money Down (Left) : Mr. Popular (5.10a)
By: twellman When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this today after doing Captain Fingers, and getting off the ground made me feel like I was still on Captain Fingers! Super hard for "5.9". Probably more like a V2 then 5.7. I guess at Rumney that somewhow averages out to 5.9 though haha.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Diedre Area : Diedre (5.10a) : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 29, 2012

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Comments: Nice Spang! Seems like everyone does that sequence a little differently. Is that a cam hanging next to the draw?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Oak Tree Flake (5.6) : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: Tim Burton would like this photo. Very nice.


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Cold Feet (5.10 R)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: Tried this on toprope. It felt a bit contrived, but was a fun little boulder problem anyway. Grade seems dependent on exactly where you pull the roof. A couple of small nuts in the seam just over the roof would be solid, but perhaps hard to place from below.

The crux gear is marginal, but could improve with traffic?? I didn't know gear gets better with traffic haha...


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Lost and Found (5.10c/d)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was a bit sandbagged at 10b in the new guide. I was glad to see it at 10c here.

A fun route that really tests your balance!


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Cake Walk Area : Above and Beyond (5.9+)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: The nut on the second bolt of pitch 3 was loose when I climbed this the other day. I hand-tightened it, but if someone has the foresight to bring a wrench, it could use a good torqueing!

A very fun outing, with well-proctected cruxes, nice belays, and good exposure and views.


Location: NH : Rumney : Summit Cliff (The Highlands...
By: twellman When: Aug 15, 2012

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Comments: That left-angling chimney looks pretty long and wild. Has anyone climbed it? Is it climbable, or full of muck?


Location: NH : Rumney : The Asylum : I had a Good Name, but I fo... (5.11c)
By: twellman When: Aug 15, 2012

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Comments: Retro Spade = 3 boulder problems with full rests between, no? Very quality and uniquely Rumney-esque, no doubt, but if you suggest that the short routes aren't as classic, it's funny that you'd also suggest a route made of stacked boulder problems to replace them!

On another note, summit cliff looks stacked with some awesome 11's, and I can't wait to get up there this fall.


Location: NH : Greens Cliff
By: twellman When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: Has anyone ever tried the approach from the sawyer pond trail? It looks like it would be a bit shorter, but perhaps from sawyer pond to the cliffs would be a bushwhack? Seems like this could be a good way to access the northeast crags.


Location: MA : Rattlesnake Rocks : Ship's Prow : Rainbow Coalition (5.11+)
By: twellman When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: John, when you say start just left of the chimney, do you mean the first chimney of Double Chimney? Is this the face with tiny crimps to the left but right of Mulatto arete?


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Rough Boys (5.10a PG13)
By: twellman When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: Very fun climb with great variety on both pitches. As of this posting, there is an anchor atop pitch 1 comprised of a few fixed nuts and rappel rings, in good condition. The second pitch is definitely worth doing though, so bring some small cams and nuts and go for it! A 60m will get you back to the ground (without any extra, so tie some knots) from the tree anchor on the ledge atop pitch 2.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Youth Challenge (5.10b)
By: twellman When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: Excellent 5.10 crack climbing, with jams of all sizes! Both pitches are fun. The second pitch is particularly cool, with 3 different cracks to overcome before arriving conveniently at the crux of retaliation. Great belay ledges, and good pro, despite some flaring parts as Lee mentioned.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea
By: twellman When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: Where and why did the ladder go?


Location: NH : Albany Slabs : Gemini Dreamin' (5.9+ PG13)
By: twellman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: There is a variation that starts 30 feet or so to the left of the corner, climbs up to a horizontal crack, then up and right across a face (1 bolt) to the ledge where the finger crack starts. Also 5.10, and some interesting moves.


Location: NH : Albany Slabs : Fool's For A Day (5.10 PG13)
By: twellman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: John, what is the difference between this and Reeling', in terms of exact line? The new guide says they're basically the same, but Fools is what they named the retro'ed version. If they are indeed mostly the same, perhaps they should be combined into one route, including the history, to avoid confusion.


Location: NH : Albany Slabs : The Tao of Dow (5.8+ PG13)
By: twellman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: This is a fun climb. Long, a couple tricky sections, and mediocre protection. There was only one very old 1/4" bolt about halfway up. There's also a thread about 1/3 of the way up. Tricams and smaller nuts were helpful.


Location: NH : Albany Slabs : Reelin' In the Fears (5.10 X)
By: twellman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: This route is now bolted (Fools For a Day), although it is still quite spicy. Seven bolts to a 2-bolt rap anchor, with crux moves about ten feet above the second to last bolt. Definitely not X anymore, but perhaps PG13 with some big whipper potential.

Fun smeary slab climbing!


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