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Member Since: Jul 12, 2009
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact twellman


Point Rank: # 2,212
Total Points: 230
Last Year: 27
Last 30 Days: 2
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has twellman been climbing?










Contributions


All (737) | Routes (5) | Areas | Photos (12) | Comments (120) | Posts (2) | Stars (520) | Ratings (78)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Cold Feet (5.10 R)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: Tried this on toprope. It felt a bit contrived, but was a fun little boulder problem anyway. Grade seems dependent on exactly where you pull the roof. A couple of small nuts in the seam just over the roof would be solid, but perhaps hard to place from below.

The crux gear is marginal, but could improve with traffic?? I didn't know gear gets better with traffic haha...


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Lost and Found (5.10c/d)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was a bit sandbagged at 10b in the new guide. I was glad to see it at 10c here.

A fun route that really tests your balance!


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Cake Walk Area : Above and Beyond (5.9+)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: The nut on the second bolt of pitch 3 was loose when I climbed this the other day. I hand-tightened it, but if someone has the foresight to bring a wrench, it could use a good torqueing!

A very fun outing, with well-proctected cruxes, nice belays, and good exposure and views.


Location: NH : Rumney : Summit Cliff (The Highlands...
By: twellman When: Aug 15, 2012

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Comments: That left-angling chimney looks pretty long and wild. Has anyone climbed it? Is it climbable, or full of muck?


Location: NH : Rumney : The Asylum : I had a Good Name, but I fo... (5.11c)
By: twellman When: Aug 15, 2012

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Comments: Retro Spade = 3 boulder problems with full rests between, no? Very quality and uniquely Rumney-esque, no doubt, but if you suggest that the short routes aren't as classic, it's funny that you'd also suggest a route made of stacked boulder problems to replace them!

On another note, summit cliff looks stacked with some awesome 11's, and I can't wait to get up there this fall.


Location: NH : Greens Cliff
By: twellman When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: Has anyone ever tried the approach from the sawyer pond trail? It looks like it would be a bit shorter, but perhaps from sawyer pond to the cliffs would be a bushwhack? Seems like this could be a good way to access the northeast crags.


Location: MA : Rattlesnake Rocks : Ship's Prow : Rainbow Coalition (5.11+)
By: twellman When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: John, when you say start just left of the chimney, do you mean the first chimney of Double Chimney? Is this the face with tiny crimps to the left but right of Mulatto arete?


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Rough Boys (5.10a PG13)
By: twellman When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: Very fun climb with great variety on both pitches. As of this posting, there is an anchor atop pitch 1 comprised of a few fixed nuts and rappel rings, in good condition. The second pitch is definitely worth doing though, so bring some small cams and nuts and go for it! A 60m will get you back to the ground (without any extra, so tie some knots) from the tree anchor on the ledge atop pitch 2.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Youth Challenge (5.10b)
By: twellman When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: Excellent 5.10 crack climbing, with jams of all sizes! Both pitches are fun. The second pitch is particularly cool, with 3 different cracks to overcome before arriving conveniently at the crux of retaliation. Great belay ledges, and good pro, despite some flaring parts as Lee mentioned.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea
By: twellman When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: Where and why did the ladder go?


Location: NH : Albany Slabs : Gemini Dreamin' (5.9+ PG13)
By: twellman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: There is a variation that starts 30 feet or so to the left of the corner, climbs up to a horizontal crack, then up and right across a face (1 bolt) to the ledge where the finger crack starts. Also 5.10, and some interesting moves.


Location: NH : Albany Slabs : Fool's For A Day (5.10 PG13)
By: twellman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: John, what is the difference between this and Reeling', in terms of exact line? The new guide says they're basically the same, but Fools is what they named the retro'ed version. If they are indeed mostly the same, perhaps they should be combined into one route, including the history, to avoid confusion.


Location: NH : Albany Slabs : The Tao of Dow (5.8+ PG13)
By: twellman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: This is a fun climb. Long, a couple tricky sections, and mediocre protection. There was only one very old 1/4" bolt about halfway up. There's also a thread about 1/3 of the way up. Tricams and smaller nuts were helpful.


Location: NH : Albany Slabs : Reelin' In the Fears (5.10 X)
By: twellman When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: This route is now bolted (Fools For a Day), although it is still quite spicy. Seven bolts to a 2-bolt rap anchor, with crux moves about ten feet above the second to last bolt. Definitely not X anymore, but perhaps PG13 with some big whipper potential.

Fun smeary slab climbing!


Location: NH : Rumney : Kennel Wall : I'm Talking to The Dog (5.9+)
By: twellman When: Jun 16, 2012

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Comments: Hard for 5.9! I was looking for a warm-up, and was quite warm by the top!

Should Ya Moe be a separate listed route perhaps? We should add it, so I can give it one star, rounding up from a half star. Super hard for 5.9+, and the whole time I just wanted to traverse over to I'm Talking but felt guilty so I followed the un-natural line to the anchors... indeeed quite lame!


Location: NH : Rumney : Starship Enterprise : The Romulan Route (5.11a)
By: twellman When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: There is a bolt anchor. Apparently (according to the ARI section in the back of climbing magazine), Tim Kemple sr finished her up one day after the forest fire and the old anchor was burned! So he replaced it. Thanks Tim.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Stone Wall Boulder : Reflection Terminal (V1)
By: twellman When: Dec 4, 2011

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Comments: It is really fun to start on this, and move right at the big jug, traversing over to super chalk and finishing up that. I though it was about V3, adds a bit of pump factor, and it is super low-ball!


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 1. The Cosmic Crag : Gravitational Mass (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: This route is a nice change from all of the more or less slabby routes that get you up to the Cosmic Crag ledge. Definitely worth doing, if not for the climb itself then for the nice feeling of actually topping out the whole cliff! If you can believe it, the view gets even better up there.


Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : Q Wall : Sloping Staircase (5.10d PG13)
By: twellman When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: This is a great route, despite its shortness. I would definitely recommend to stick-clip, and if you do, the route is super safe and well-bolted the rest of the way. Definitely agree that is feels like a long boulder problem, as the moves keep coming and offer little rest until you're standing below the finishing ledge, trying to shake off the pump and figure out the mantle.


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Sky Pilot (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Sep 3, 2011

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Comments: This route is pretty fun, though the 5.11 climbing is really just a traverse from the 2nd bolt clipping jug to the 3rd bolt clipping jug. The sequence of holds on the steep lower section makes for a nice flow of climbing though.

I think the route could benefit from a bolt between the 3rd bolt and the first piton. I imagine many people make it there with a good pump going, and it is certainly possible to fall on the way to the piton. Yeah, you can protect it with gear, but if all moves at Rumney... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Starship Enterprise : Space...Madness (5.12b)
By: twellman When: Aug 28, 2011

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Comments: Finally tried this route the other day, and it was quite fun. There is some chossy rock between the first and second bolts, but it will probably clean up nice with more traffic. The dyno and moves after it are quite hard! Overall, a nice variety of techniques... I used at least one heel-hook, kneebar, undercling, mantle, (attempted) dyno, and tricky gaston!


Location: NH : Rumney : Starship Enterprise : One Size Fits All (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Aug 28, 2011

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Comments: This route is really fun. I thought the first section, moving out right over the roof, was the crux, though the last couple tricky moves on small holds are 5.11 as well. Pumpy third clip, though there are a couple good jugs right below it. Give it a go!


Location: NH : Rumney : Starship Enterprise : Yer Anus (5.9)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: Yer Anus was very slick with the humidity today.

:-)

A fun climb with a good variety of moves.


Location: ME : Nubble Lighthouse : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 21, 2011

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Comments: There are some cool problems right there. I think the one in front of the pad is maybe V2 or V3. Tough, slopy topout, especially with tourists looking down at you awkwardly struggle to mantle over the top.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 5. Slabs : Consolation Prize (5.8)
By: twellman When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Pitches 1 and 2 are quite fun, and well protected. There is a little 15 foot section of 5.5ish slab without pro on pitch 2 above the crack, but it is over quickly and easy climbing. The hand crack on pitch 2 is wonderful.


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