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Somewhere in Tuolumne, sometime early 80's


Member Since: Aug 18, 2007
Last Visit: Jan 26, 2014
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Point Rank: # 3,953
Total Points: 112
Last Year: 15
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 271 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 27 | Posts 228 | Stars | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Cape Ann : Stage Fort Park : Sea Shell (5.5) : Photo
By: trundlebum When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: The slab right of the upper part of the (walk off) cleft in the center of the picture is very good thin (5.8/.8+) friction.
The left of the cleft is very good and about the same, maybe a little steeper but more featured.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Stage Fort Park
By: trundlebum When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: A good resource for some early info:
Climbing in Eastern Massachucetts
by Steve with Sam Streibert Hendrick
"
Climbing in Eastern Massachusetts paperback by Ste...
Climbing in Eastern Massachusetts paperback by Steve with Sam Streibert Hendrick.
"


Location: MA
By: trundlebum When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: A good resource for some early info:
Climbing in Eastern Massachucetts
by Steve with Sam Streibert Hendrick
"
Climbing in Eastern Massachusetts paperback by Ste...
Climbing in Eastern Massachusetts paperback by Steve with Sam Streibert Hendrick.
"


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity
By: trundlebum When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: By jim.dangle
Apr 30, 2013:
"Has anyone climbed the crack between High Me and Zits? It's a layback flake... "

Trust me, if it's 5.9 or easier it was climbed in Blue suede RR's with lug soles.
If it's .11d or easier it was climbed in EB's

Around 76' or so? Bradley Achorn and I went through three wire brushes and a pair of leather work gloves cleaning 'Zits' (not what we named our TR version of the climb)

Please take no offence, there has been some great work cleaning/developing the crag in rec... more >>


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Rip Van Winkle (5.10a)
By: trundlebum When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: You guys sure this route isn't more appropriately named:
"Rip Van Winkler" ?
It used to have a 1/4" button head and Leeper hanger about 4~6' above the terminus of the crack, making it a really fun (less scary) lead.
Since it originally had a bolt there someone aught to replace it?


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Stage Fort Park : Photo
By: trundlebum When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Tons of variations!
Easiest, up the crack and step right at the top.
Up and move left a little harder. Straight up hardest.
The slab to the right of the crack, straight up from ground is really fun with a perfect landing if you don't make it.
Behind the tree (someone needs to cut it down 'again') there is a solution pocket. Start up the crack for a mover or two. Then traverse left under the solution pocket until you can get it with both hands in a 'Gaston.' A strenuous couple of smears and stuff... more >>


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Stage Fort Park : Photo
By: trundlebum When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Straight up under very left side of the plaque is a great (5.7?) mantle.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Stage Fort Park : Photo
By: trundlebum When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: "Jaws", 5.8, first few moves.
Fun to tape up and do a sit start, hands up under. That makes the transition into the layback the cux.


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity
By: trundlebum When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: My first visit to Stage Fort Park was while I was in my mid-teens around '75.
I grew up in Marblehead and had a cool summer circuit. I would ride up Rte 127 to Stage Fort and boulder. Then I'd ride around Gloucester and up to Rockport and swim in the quarries mid-day. After swimming, I would ride out of Rockport back to Gloucester and then go climb at Red Rock in the afternoon before heading home.

It was on my second or third visit to Stage Fort Park that I met Kurt Winkler, and he was the one ... more >>


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Black Streak (5.11+)
By: trundlebum When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: I always wanted to put some black plastic in the depression at the top of the crag and melt snow so I could 'farm' this as an ice climb.
I'm surprised no one has ever done that yet?


Location: Other Sports : surfing and wave sailing : Post : Photo
By: trundlebum When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: Gnarly...
Reminds me of surfing in New England during the winter.

Wont do that in a ripped up west suit ever again !


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Save It For A Rainy Day (5.12a/b A1-2)
By: trundlebum When: Feb 22, 2011

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Comments: Cosmiccragsman:
"I enjoyed taking the photos of the FA!!!"

F.F.A yah mean ;)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Save It For A Rainy Day (5.12a/b A1-2)
By: trundlebum When: Feb 13, 2011

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Comments: The route got it's name thus:
I had reconned the line. I really wanted to climb it but it was obviously beyond my free climbing ability due to the small size and overhanging nature. I knew the route would be dry during a rain storm.
One day 'Iggy' and I were climbing at Willow Springs area and the weather turned virtually alpine. It started to rain, hail and produce occasional BB snow. While leaving the park I mentioned an aid line that I had my eye on and that we could go do in the rain. Iggy w... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Not So Moderate (5.11c R)
By: trundlebum When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: So Joe...
You couldn't help youself huh?
You just had to add a 100' deep section,
infested with sharks,
right in the middle of the wading pool.

I don't think this one will get a lot of lead traffic.
It's pretty 'Grit ee' !


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Not So Moderate (5.11c R) : Photo
By: trundlebum When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: "...getting out of the pool."

You just love swimming, when it means you et to diving in from the 'Deep End'

Great Job Joe !


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: trundlebum When: Jan 27, 2011

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Comments: Warming up ?
Looks like a 'wake'n bake' 2 me.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Classic Corner (5.8) : Photo
By: trundlebum When: Aug 14, 2010

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Comments: Classic route in it's grade. BTW...
She using a GriGri (I hope) ?


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Crack In The Woods : Crack In The Woods (5.10c)
By: trundlebum When: May 25, 2010

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Comments: Just be very wary of killer, attack beavers on the approach!

Of course this is pretty much a joke as there could be no such beast in the woods of N.H, right?

I wish Jimmy Dunn would step in with a recount of his story.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: trundlebum When: Jan 14, 2008

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Comments: Nice romp.
Second pitch is a gem, but definitely run it together with the 3rd.

From the pedestal atop the 3rd I (following the sun) stepped left and climbed that corner.
This pitch was almost as good as the final pitch, with the exception of a couple small bushes and not being quite the length.
At the top of this pitch step left around a big chock stone,
(there were yellow jackets in a hueco up right)
and up onto a beautiful (sunny) belay ledge.

A short 30 meter 5.4 pitch takes you straight u... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Hide-and-Seek Crag : Here-to-There (5.9)
By: trundlebum When: Jan 3, 2008

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Comments: A little engaging clipping and passing the first bolt at the overlap,
maybe easy 5.8 ? If the route is a 5.9 then it would be at the top few moves before the final mantle reaching the anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Hide-and-Seek Crag : Here (5.10-)
By: trundlebum When: Jan 3, 2008

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Comments: Short/sweet and very winter friendly.
The couple moves from last bolt to the anchor are respectably .10a
The anchor is perhaps low. If the anchor was the last protection bolt the route would would a fair bit harder, you would have two more thin moves and then a sloper mantle to finish.
The route is easily top roped by doing 'There' and just tensioning off the 'There' anchor on the way down.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Hide-and-Seek Crag
By: trundlebum When: Jan 3, 2008

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Comments: Must be an oven in the summer yet...
today, two (very short) days into the year,
it was sunny and warm :)

Fun and user-friendly.
Well worth the stop on your way to or from 'Cut your teeth'


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cut Your Teeth Crag : September Knights (5.9)
By: trundlebum When: Jan 3, 2008

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Comments: Super fun, as was 'November Daze'
However, I agree with gilbert,
I thought it barely harder than 'November Daze'
5.8 is generous.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Stoner's Highway (5.10c R)
By: trundlebum When: Sep 5, 2007

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Comments: Although this is a long and somewhat committing route many people do just the first 3 or 4 pitches, and that is well worth it.

On the first pitch, if your second is anything less than confident that they can cruise the moves, a back belay (party of three?) might be wise. For the second, you have to unclip the second bolt and do the crux moves of the pitch staring at a serious whipper (correct use of the term) into the shallow left facing dihedral. If you do fall, just pretend it is practice for... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: trundlebum When: Sep 5, 2007

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Comments: George is corrrect:
The 6th pitch is a .10a right facing layback, well worth doing. The 7th is 5.8/5.9. From here you can continue up. I have never been above here, but Meyers topo shows a .10c lb and thin crack pitch, then a .10d thin pitch. A short bit of .10 face and 4th class gets you onto the Powell/Reed ledges (but why?).
Also there is the possibility of doing a face traverse,
(scary, only one bolt and who knows of the condition?)
From just below the belay on the top of pitch 7, over to ... more >>


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