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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : The Slabs : Wedge (5.6) : Photo
By: Tristan Perry When: Dec 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now that is a classic friction pitch! Great buttshot
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Streambed Boulders : Fritz's Demise (V0)
By: Tristan Perry When: Nov 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I struggle to understand why folks seem to think this is so fun.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : A Slice Of Life (5.12a R)
By: Tristan Perry When: Nov 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow Tom, thanks for sharing about both the route and your friend!
I always love to hear about how routes like this one were put up. It's an intimidating piece of rock, alright...I always wanted to do all the routes that Scott S. FA'ed (as a marginally doable challenge/bet with an likewise motivated climbing partner). We always put this one off, as super-overhanging 12a R on gear wasn't something we were sure we wanted to try yet.
As it turns out, the route has been fully equipped with gl... more >>
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Downward Spiral (V8)
By: Tristan Perry When: Oct 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The wetness of this is SO frustrating!
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Polish Terrorist (V8)
By: Tristan Perry When: Oct 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wish someone would change the description...my edit sounds lame and this problem is so cool it deserves better.
My $0.02:
Wow, you guys match on that starting hold? I've alway try to crimp it right-handed with a straight arm, other hand crossed to the sidepull underneath, high left foot pushing/pulling, and a straight leg as far underneath the boulder as possible on a nubbin. Then I lurch upward and roll inward with my shoulders enough to deadpoint to the good left crimp above. And then i... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous area (M... : Sesame Street (5.10c)
By: Tristan Perry When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route not long ago...was thinking I had never done it before. Only when I lowered off and pulled the rope did I realize that I had climbed it four years before. I absolutely loved it both times; it's long and full-value - runout on easy ground and adventurous the whole way! It's got to be my favorite 10c at Rumney.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Mauie Wowie (5.13b)
By: Tristan Perry When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maui Wowie is a stunning line. Pull an awkward roof to get to the business of the route; a short, super-powerful traverse to the right. A huge dropknee/backstep can help reach better holds in the corner. There is a key foothold that is often wet, deterring many hopeful ascents. The dihedral above is a fun romp, which gets progressively easier, all on very steep ground. Enormous, ledgy holds that are spaced many feet apart characterize this section.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : The Whip (V2)
By: Tristan Perry When: Dec 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Whip is the best "moderate" problem around. Some climb it as a fingercrack, while others take it as more of a face climb. The crux is very committing, involving a long reach from a shallow fingertip jam to a bomber lock well above.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Darth Vader : Storm Troopers (5.12c)
By: Tristan Perry When: Dec 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hate this route because I can't do it.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : Liquid Sky (5.13b) : Photo
By: Tristan Perry When: Dec 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great picture. It makes me think that position is abolutely desperate.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Upper Cliff : Bean Pole (5.13a)
By: Tristan Perry When: Dec 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought it was Charlie Bentley who got the FA.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Bring the Ruckus (V3)
By: Tristan Perry When: Dec 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another sweet problem...
Ladd, I'd love to know more about the hold breakage on that Ill Saint thing to the right. Looks heinous. I didn't know a hold broke. Has it been repeated?? I just assumed DG was able to levitate up this thing somehow but I never really saw any holds at all!
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Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : War and Peace (5.9+)
By: Tristan Perry When: Dec 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really good route for the grade. Jugs everywhere...where to grab?? It gets pumpy fast! The last moves are sweet, exposed, aesthetic. Great climb that would be better if it were on any other wall. It's kind of overshadowed by its neighbors (and always a bit wet, it seems). Not much harder when wet.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Masterpiece (5.10a)
By: Tristan Perry When: Dec 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a GREAT climb. I, for one, wish the bolt had never been added to the start. Was a proud way to get aquainted with 5.10 back in the day. Had to climb up for a ways before the first bolt, indeed (seemed way runout!) but it was all on easy ground. Enormous jugs for every handhold. I am saddened by the seemingly pervading notion that all Rumney routes must be "cookie cutter" sport routes with no variance as to the commitment level. As I said, it used to be a prouder tick. Too bad. No... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers
By: Tristan Perry When: Nov 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: God I miss the Fishers. When I'm there, I get really nervous and pray (I'm not religious) to live through the experience but when I'm thousands of miles away, I keep thinking about them. I guess that's love.
In these internet discussions some considerations have been brought up; some say that routes that have been done clean should continue to be done in such a style. I fully agree. Others have made the claim that climbers are free to do anything they wish (there is no climbing p... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous area (M... : Slack (5.5)
By: Tristan Perry When: Oct 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: May the second pitch forever remain adventureland.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thinner (5.8 R)
By: Tristan Perry When: Sep 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great story, and a good description as well. What an intense experience!
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Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : License to Ill (5.11a R)
By: Tristan Perry When: Sep 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Lee: it would be tragic to lose the special character of the route to someone's bolting fantasy. If it's too scary for some on lead, what is so inadequate about a lap on toprope? This is, in my opinion, the best route on the wall - don't bolt it!!!
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : VMC direct direct (5.10+)
By: Tristan Perry When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The third pitch is unbelievable, as in so good it might make you want to cry. As is the rest of the climb, actually. The climbing afterward gets really interesting. More "interesting" than the more straightforward lower pitches, if you catch my drift. Question: The pitch below the Cow's Mouth - does the regular route go to the right or the left of the big spike? I believe guidebooks are inconsistent on this point. Also, is it just me, or does the "ledge" at the belay for this particular p... more >>
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : Total Recall (5.11c/d)
By: Tristan Perry When: Sep 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the correction, Brent. I've changed the FA info above.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Storm Pockets (V3)
By: Tristan Perry When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Careful of those holds, particularly at the top...they're creakers. Other than that, this problem is highly unique and exciting! There are about four big holds on this thing other than the lip. They're all about four feet apart, too. Awesome...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Circus Trick (V4)
By: Tristan Perry When: Aug 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The dyno on Circus Trick is one of the coolest moves I've ever experienced in climbing. The sit start doesn't really make the problem any harder, I think, as the crux is all about getting to that lip...it's really hard to stick any way you do it. The short persons' beta is viciously awkward and core-strength intensive. Footwork is tough. The dyno can be done from the two sideways-spaced jugs to avoid the tough move. Of course it's a little longer flight, so I really don't know what is harde... more >>
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : The Bitch (A.K.A. Gran Tori... (V6)
By: Tristan Perry When: Aug 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a sick lowball. Slap those slopers hard and use that starting jug to your full advantage...it's hard to keep yourself from falling off, even when you get the finishing hold, since you're all over the place at that point. The mantle's tough and not elegant.
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Location: WY : Stonehenge : Drule Cup of the Gods : Chacos Allowed (V2)
By: Tristan Perry When: Aug 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great funky highstep move to start with thought provoking slab moves as you get higher. This is a GREAT problem!
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Location: WY : Stonehenge : Drule Cup of the Gods
By: Tristan Perry When: Aug 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: John Sherman came to this area around 2000 and did the FAs of some of these great boulder problems. A few of us locals liked to mess around here well before that, but when he showed I remember he climbed some things that previously we thought were very unlikely and futuristic. (Remember, also, that Todd Skinner grew up around here and it is likely that he did many problems without reporting them that have been claimed as "FAs" by others).
I grew up a few miles away from "Stonehenge" and came ... more >>
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