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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Dark Angel : West Face (5.11)
By: Tristan Higbee When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this one today at 5.9 C0. A pretty tame little tower except for the slightly unnerving (yet easy) 30 foot runout from the last bolt to the top. The approach was about an hour. There are 7 bolts on the second pitch bolt ladder. A half set of nuts (medium to large sizes only) and a set of Camalots from silver (.4?) to #4 would be perfect. A bunch of draws, too. The slings on the anchors on top are still in OK condition. A single 60 meter rope doubled over will barely/perfectly get you ba... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : For Those About To Rock (We... (5.8) : Photo
By: Tristan Higbee When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: There's some really great rock in Rock Canyon, both in the quartzite and limestone. But this wall ain't where it's at. It's fun, to be sure, but it takes a certain kind of climber to feel that way. Climbing on this crap, though, is good training for the desert :)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Training Camp : There is No Try (5.10c)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really fun route. This is my second favorite route on the formation, after the 5.9. It's more sustained and pumpy (and harder) than the 5.10c to the right. The crux is just endurance climbing after you turn the roof.
Also, Crisco for some reason failed to mention that you can just lower off of the anchors of this route; you don't have to rap any other route or walk off (though I suppose you can if you want). That's what we both did and it would be the best way.
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Location: OR : Photo
By: Tristan Higbee When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Toketee Falls.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Frodo Lives (5.9)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Duly noted, and I'll keep that in mind next time I head up there. I will say, though, that I feel like in most places where there was distance between bolts, the rock was too shattered for good pro. Maybe I just was in a sport climbing mindset, not a trad one.
EDIT 9/10/09: I want to clarify that if I went up again, I still probably wouldn't take trad gear for these pitches. The bolts are far enough apart where you do certainly have to think before you commit to the moves but not far enough ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Frodo Lives (5.9)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One star for the climbing and the rock and one more star for the overall experience. I didn't like the route much. Classic? Different strokes for different folks, I guess... The rock was chossy, the bolts far apart, the rope drag horrible. The movement up and over the few roofs was kinda fun, though, and the exposure was enjoyable. I wouldn't recommend this route if 5.9 is your limit.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Unnamed P2 5.7 (5.7)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a fan of this pitch for a few reasons: The first bolt is ridiculously high, making falling before then a very serious no-no. If I had known the first bolt was that high I would have taken some trad gear or something. It just didn't make sense. Also, as I was climbing above the last bolt it wasn't clear to me which side of the bush to top out on (I guess I was dumb enough to not have read Perin's description which said to go right). The bolt is smack in the middle underneath the bush. I went ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Low Tide : Syzygy (5.8)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got on this one again the other day and it was better than I remember it being. Really enjoyable, cruiser climbing on great rock and big jugs. Fun! Changing it from two stars to three stars...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Adjective : Hard (5.10a)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: More unique, awkward climbing, even more so than the .10c. The good holds are all there, but you do need to hunt around for them as they're hidden pretty well. The tree/bush near the last bolt is kind of annoying. Still a fun route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Adjective : Shaved (5.10c)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's definitely some awkward movement on this one. The rock is nice and solid and the climbing is interesting and is more than just reach-up-for-the-next-hold. This was my favorite of the three sub-5.11 routes on this side of the wall.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Adjective : Hairy (5.9)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route on good rock that looks harder from the ground than it is. It didn't quite seem like 5.9 to me.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Tanks For Nothing (5.7)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually took a fifteen footer on this guy when my foot slipped right before I was about to clip! Ok route but there are much better 5.7s around. Worth doing once if you're in the area.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Tank Trap (5.10c)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is rad!!! I don't think I've ever done so many dropknees and other funky body positioning on any route. Seemed stiff for .10c but man, what a route!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Wasp : Photo (Copy)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's correct. 6 is the western part of the Jobsite and then 5 is
the part of AC/DC that has Thunderstruck, Back in Black, and Shot Down in Flames.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : Thunderstruck (5.11b)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK route. I thought the .11b up the gully a bit was better. This one felt really greasy (maybe it was the humidity today?) and the climbing is pretty boring: really small crimps the whole way up with a jug thrown in for good measure. Still, it's worth doing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : Send For The Man (5.10a)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went back and did the second pitch today. Wow! It's awesome!! Great rock and really fun moves. Felt like an easy 5.10a. I will definitely come back and do this route again! Three big stars and I might even give it a fourth... The rock on the second pitch reminded me of the Uintas: really good, black and tan, grainy quartzite. We rapped down and it worked out fine.
And the great first pitch felt like 5.7 this time, not 5.8.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Jobsite : Run for Cover (5.8)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was great! I agree that nothing on the climb felt like 5.9. I actually think that the starting moves on Driver's Test are the crux of the whole route, with the start of the second pitch being the same kind of thing but with better holds. The third pitch felt like 5.7. I actually liked this route more than Cosmic Space Dust Lazers. There wasn't much loose rock and most of the holds felt pretty solid. Nice!
EDIT: Went back and climbed it again on August 22, 2009, and thought ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Layer Cake : Dude, It's Classic! (5.7)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another fun one. Pretty much the same thing as Knuckle Dragger (and that's not a bad thing), just maybe a tiny bit harder. There are some really perfect jugs on this.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Layer Cake : Knuckle Dragger (5.6)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route! Mindless, cruiser climbing. Reach up, grab hold, move feet up. Repeat till you're at the chains.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : If God's On The Left (5.8)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I assume this route is Andy's (if not I'll change it). This route isn't terribly spectacular but is worth doing once.
For gear, I took one each from purple (.5) to blue (3) Camalot. You probably won't place all of them but you could if you wanted to. Doing it again, I'd probably take two greens (.75) and leave the purple.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : Givin the Dog a Bone (5.11b)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing has fun movement and the climbing is very fingery. Good times!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : Hell's Bells (5.10a)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun jug hauling up the overhanging stuff, then it slabs out after that. Feels easy for a .10a (though I think it still is .10a) just because the holds are so ginormous!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : Angus (5.10c)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has some tricky, inobvious climbing. There's more flaky grittiness on this than any other on the wall. In one section, pretty much everything you put your feet on crumbles. Probably my least favorite route on the wall, but still worth a go.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Hidden Wall
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this wall. The routes on the left are on stunning rock, the routes on the right are longer and fun. In general but with a couple exceptions, I think the routes here are stiff for the grade and they can leave you feeling humbled. With shade almost all day long, this wall is awesome in the summer. These are technical, powerful routes.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Hidden Wall : Doom (5.11b)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The only reason I'm not giving this route three stars is that it's still a bit dirty in a couple sections. After getting more traffic, I'll climb it again and probably give it three stars. This thing is rad, intense, a bit burly, and climbs unlike anything else on the wall. I knocked a ton of loose rock off this route but it's unlikely I got everything. The belayer should stand a couple feet off to the right and any falling debris will completely miss him or her. Still, don't let that deter you!... more >>
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