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Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Julie Ellison, editor of Climbing Magazin...

Member Since: Apr 16, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Total Points: 660
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Trevor. been climbing?


All 769 | Routes 27 | Areas 1 | Photos 65 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 47 | Posts 104 | Stars 304 | Ratings 220
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Contributed Comments


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: Trevor. When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I thought the second pitch finger crack was very stiff for the grade by Creek standards. When(not if) I climb this route again, I'll bring doubles from 0.3-3, and a single #5. No #4. With a #5 Camalot you can forego the #4 and still be well protected when the going gets wide. I thought the squeeze chimney at the top was super casual, felt like 5.7 to me.

As of 5/18/16 there were no fixed slings nor any fixed gear on the route with the exception of the bolts on the summ... more >>

Location: ID : Black Cliffs : West Car Body Canyon : Velcro Fly (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: The straight up finish caught me off guard! It felt pretty solidly 5.11 to me, and not super easy to protect without plugging up critical holds. I guess you're supposed to finish out right to keep up the 5.10b grade?

Location: ID : Black Cliffs : The Dark Side : Safety Dance (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: As of 3/29/16, there's a pigeon with a nest and chicks in a wide horizontal crack about 2/3 up this climb, and it didn't seem particularly pleased to see me when I climbed past. One might consider avoiding this climb for another month or so.

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+) : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: Funny, my first thought was how enjoyable that looks.

Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Short Cliffs : Bag of Stems (5.7 R)
By: Trevor. When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: May as well just go up with nothing but draws to clip the anchors, any pro you get is too low to do much of anything once you're off the ledge. It's really secure and easy chimneying though.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: The Indian Creek log flume ride is currently out of order...

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face Angling Crack? (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: This is definitely the way to go if you're going to climb the South Six and are comfortable leading 5.10.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Cave Route (5.10d)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Something about this crack made my toes hurt for days after climbing it. Cool setting but I didn't particularly enjoy the climbing itself all that much.

Location: ID : Q'Emilin Park : Outback Wall : Kangaroo (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 3, 2015

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Comments: The way this climb is bolted is a bit silly. There are several bolts you can just skip without putting yourself in any danger.

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Twin Sisters : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: Some of the best sunsets I've ever seen have been at the City. Great shot!

Location: WA : Northeast Corner & Spokane : Spokane Area : Minnehaha : Main Wall : The Dihedral (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: The two bolts on top are just regular hangers so you won't be able to rappel or lower. So if you lead this thing, plan on having a follower clean your gear and then walk off.

Great climb though, diverse movement and ample but thoughtful pro make for a good time.

Location: ID : Mores Mountain : Roadside Rock : Computer Girl (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: If you link both pitches into one long wandering pitch, it's more fun! Definitely bring a ton of runners if you're going to do this though!

Location: ID : McCall Area : The Thinking Spot
By: Trevor. When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: This is a really fun little crag! Beautiful setting, good rock, and a straightforward trail back to the base, what more could you ask for? Morning shade, afternoon sun.

Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9) : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: Yep, this is the correct beta for keeping that traverse safe. Also, you'll want to either use extra long runners or back clean as you go.

Location: ID : Black Cliffs : West Car Body Canyon : The Doug Scott Route (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: This is a great crack climb, easily one of the best at the grade at the cliffs. It just needs cleaned out periodically. I brushed the crack out the best I could by hand(gross, I know) on 7/31/15, so it's not too bad right now, although it could still use a good brushing out to be truly clean for a while. Don't pass this one up though, even if it means doing a quick clean on rappel.

Also worth noting; I've seen owls nested on top of this route, make very sure they're not up there befo... more >>

Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Astro Elephant (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: I too made the same mistake as Wyatt and a few others, heading up what seemed like the correct dihedral to a roof, but once we started the second pitch it quickly became obvious we were off route. We tried to work our way onto the route through some horizontal roof traversing, but my second got some nasty ropeburn in a big pendulum fall so we wound up bailing.

The incorrect route we went up started as a handcrack with very angular rock for the first 10ft or so. If you want to climb Astro-Eleph... more >>

Location: ID : Mores Mountain : Roadside Rock : For Whom the Bell Tolls (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: My friends and I all just call it "The flake" too.

The first bolt on this route is poorly placed such that you'll slam on the slab below if you fall, but it protects well to just clip the first bolt on the route to the left of it, then start clipping the 'correct' bolts from the second bolt on.

I agree that leading it on gear isn't the wisest of ideas, the flake is definitely on the dubious side of things, and would likely kill you, your belayer, and everyone at the base if it were to pop. It... more >>

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Singapore (5.11a PG13)
By: Trevor. When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: I definitely used a lot of the 0.3 camalot/ blue metolius sized pieces on this one. Like other have said, the pro is a bit funky on the upper part, but you can find good placements, and the fall is a clean one so it's not too sketchy.

Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Slippery Slope (5.10a)
By: Trevor. When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Warning: I almost pulled off a sizeable loose flake on the first pitch, and it's still sitting up there just waiting to bomb someone. IIRC, it's a few moves above the 3rd bolt, and your belayer is definitely in the potential fallout zone if you were to pull it off. My second would have trundled it but my dog was sleeping at the base. I'd recommend the next party to go up the route tosses the thing off given a safe opportunity, it definitely has the potential to do some serious damage.

Other th... more >>

Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Mid Cliffs : Heat Miser (5.7)
By: Trevor. When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: This might just be the easiest route at the black cliffs. Perfect for a first lead or taking beginners out. It's the first climb to get sun on the mid cliffs in the morning so it makes a good warmup on cool mornings.

Location: UT : Zion National Park : North Guardian Angel : East Ridge (4th)
By: Trevor. When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was a really cool scramble, but definitely be aware that you can find yourself doing 5th class moves on sketchy rock with huge exposure if you don't take the best route. I stuck to the ridge and had a few holds crumble underfoot where a fall would have been fatal, so be careful which way you go, it's a long ways down up there! Definitely worth doing though, the view was awesome!

Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Green Acres : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Just a note, when climbing Geologic Time Includes Now, you traverse over to and use The Garden's anchors, not the anchors up top. The anchors above Geologic Time Includes Now are accessible from the top and are presumably for rapping in to The Garden to set up a TR.

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Two rappels with a single 60m will get you down.

Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9)
By: Trevor. When: Jul 4, 2014

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Comments: I'm not sure about linking pitches 1 and 2, but We did pitches 1-3 as two pitches by belaying at the small tree halfway up the second pitch.

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: One good strategy for those looking to move fast is to simul-climb to the base of the 5.8 pitch, pitch that out, and simul or solo to the top. Taylor and I did the whole route in 34 minutes this way!

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