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Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Julie Ellison


Member Since: Apr 16, 2012
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Total Points: 714
Last Year: 142
Last 30 Days: 30
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 863 | Routes 28 | Areas 1 | Photos 72 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 53 | Posts 136 | Stars 341 | Ratings 230
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: That may well be the best campsite in the world.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9) : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Interesting, I've always started ~20ft to the right in the gully proper. That looks fun though.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : King on the Throne : King on the Throne - West : Sorcerer of Death's Constru... (5.10d)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Hate to break it to you but you didn't get the FA. I climbed it a few years back, and I'm sure I wasn't the first one up it either. Still a fun line to hit up, especially if you're camped right there.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : Finger of Fate : Open Book (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: On the 5.5 "no pro" slab section, there is actually a small but solid thread about halfway up out right. I seem to recall a skinny double length runner working best for it.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Direct Beckey (5.11b) : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Jul 3, 2016

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Comments: My last time up this, my partner lead straight up the roof about 20ft left of the climber in this photo. It was a bit lichen coated and went at about 10+ with reasonable protection.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11c)
By: Trevor. When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Definitely a few spooky blocks on this one, including a few we would have liked to trundle had we known the base was clear for sure. Be careful.

This was our rack, which we found nearly perfect as fairly cautious climbers:
Offset Micronuts
DMM Alloy Offsets
Large Nuts (SUPER USEFUL!!!)
Singles BD 0.1-3
Doubles BD 0.3-2
X4 Offsets .2/.3 - .4/.5 (Not necessary but we definitely used them)
Lots of slings
SUN PRO!

If you wanna trim down on weight, you could make a single #2 and no #3 w... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: Trevor. When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: I thought the second pitch finger crack was very stiff for the grade by Creek standards. When(not if) I climb this route again, I'll bring doubles from 0.3-3, and a single #5. No #4. With a #5 Camalot you can forego the #4 and still be well protected when the going gets wide. I thought the squeeze chimney at the top was super casual, felt like 5.7 to me.

As of 5/18/16 there were no fixed slings nor any fixed gear on the route with the exception of the bolts on the summ... more >>


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : West Car Body Canyon : Velcro Fly (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: The straight up finish caught me off guard! It felt pretty solidly 5.11 to me, and not super easy to protect without plugging up critical holds. I guess you're supposed to finish out right to keep up the 5.10b grade?


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : The Dark Side : Safety Dance (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: As of 3/29/16, there's a pigeon with a nest and chicks in a wide horizontal crack about 2/3 up this climb, and it didn't seem particularly pleased to see me when I climbed past. One might consider avoiding this climb for another month or so.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+) : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: Funny, my first thought was how enjoyable that looks.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Short Cliffs : Bag of Stems (5.7 R)
By: Trevor. When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: May as well just go up with nothing but draws to clip the anchors, any pro you get is too low to do much of anything once you're off the ledge. It's really secure and easy chimneying though.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: The Indian Creek log flume ride is currently out of order...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face Angling Crack? (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: This is definitely the way to go if you're going to climb the South Six and are comfortable leading 5.10.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Cave Route (5.10d)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Something about this crack made my toes hurt for days after climbing it. Cool setting but I didn't particularly enjoy the climbing itself all that much.


Location: ID : Q'Emilin Park : Outback Wall : Kangaroo (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 3, 2015

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Comments: The way this climb is bolted is a bit silly. There are several bolts you can just skip without putting yourself in any danger.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Twin Sisters : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: Some of the best sunsets I've ever seen have been at the City. Great shot!


Location: WA : Northeast Corner & Spokane : Spokane Area : Minnehaha : Main Wall : The Dihedral (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: The two bolts on top are just regular hangers so you won't be able to rappel or lower. So if you lead this thing, plan on having a follower clean your gear and then walk off.

Great climb though, diverse movement and ample but thoughtful pro make for a good time.


Location: ID : Mores Mountain : Roadside Rock : Computer Girl (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: If you link both pitches into one long wandering pitch, it's more fun! Definitely bring a ton of runners if you're going to do this though!


Location: ID : McCall Area : The Thinking Spot
By: Trevor. When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: This is a really fun little crag! Beautiful setting, good rock, and a straightforward trail back to the base, what more could you ask for? Morning shade, afternoon sun.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9) : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: Yep, this is the correct beta for keeping that traverse safe. Also, you'll want to either use extra long runners or back clean as you go.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : West Car Body Canyon : The Doug Scott Route (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: This is a great crack climb, easily one of the best at the grade at the cliffs. It just needs cleaned out periodically. I brushed the crack out the best I could by hand(gross, I know) on 7/31/15, so it's not too bad right now, although it could still use a good brushing out to be truly clean for a while. Don't pass this one up though, even if it means doing a quick clean on rappel.

Also worth noting; I've seen owls nested on top of this route, make very sure they're not up there befo... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Astro Elephant (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: I too made the same mistake as Wyatt and a few others, heading up what seemed like the correct dihedral to a roof, but once we started the second pitch it quickly became obvious we were off route. We tried to work our way onto the route through some horizontal roof traversing, but my partner got some nasty ropeburn in a big pendulum fall so we wound up bailing.

The incorrect route we went up started below a massive roof. This is wrong. Move right ~50ft to get to the right start.


Location: ID : Mores Mountain : Roadside Rock : For Whom the Bell Tolls (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: My friends and I all just call it "The flake" too.

The first bolt on this route is poorly placed such that you'll slam on the slab below if you fall, but it protects well to just clip the first bolt on the route to the left of it, then start clipping the 'correct' bolts from the second bolt on.

I agree that leading it on gear isn't the wisest of ideas, the flake is definitely on the dubious side of things, and would likely kill you, your belayer, and everyone at the base if it were to pop. It... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Singapore (5.11a PG13)
By: Trevor. When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: I definitely used a lot of the 0.3 camalot/ blue metolius sized pieces on this one. Like other have said, the pro is a bit funky on the upper part, but you can find good placements, and the fall is a clean one so it's not too sketchy.


Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Slippery Slope (5.10a)
By: Trevor. When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Warning: I almost pulled off a sizeable loose flake on the first pitch, and it's still sitting up there just waiting to bomb someone. IIRC, it's a few moves above the 3rd bolt, and your belayer is definitely in the potential fallout zone if you were to pull it off. My second would have trundled it but my dog was sleeping at the base. I'd recommend the next party to go up the route tosses the thing off given a safe opportunity, it definitely has the potential to do some serious damage.

Other th... more >>


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