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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : Puppy Chow Area : Lavender Days (5.13a)
By: TravisMelin When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: the 100% rest is a bit deceiving. ...maybe I didnt find the 'sweet spot' though. I found myself bearhugging/forearm smearing a ledge, with a slight amount of left knee bar.... my forearms could recover some, but holy shit did it exhaust every other muscle in my body. What do other people do for the 'rest'?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Good Morning Veruca (V1 PG13)
By: TravisMelin When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like this one will be in the running for most photogenic route at the lake.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : Bourbon Sauce (5.11d)
By: TravisMelin When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I started on the left arete instead of below 'control'. The moves were much more appealing than the odd traverse in from the right. Also easier.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Kaymoor Slabs : Pudd's Pretty Dress (5.12c/d)
By: TravisMelin When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 12d going on 13a. I guess it depend on what, if anything you can get back on the "rests'. Hand jam at the big undercling was way critical for me. exciting finish!
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Location: VA : AVO : The Seance Area : Flight or Fright (V5) : Photo
By: TravisMelin When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: wow,looks like some quality stone.
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Location: WV : Bozoo : Bozoo Bouldering : Entryway Boulders : BoulderCliff Area : ... : Squeeze Arete (V3)
By: TravisMelin When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: great route. Probably at least a grade harder for people of a certain height.
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Location: WV : Bozoo : Bozoo Bouldering : Entryway Boulders : Roadside : ... : Roadside Euphoria (V6)
By: TravisMelin When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: alternate start adds a little difficulty (maybe v6?): squat start way left under the slab matched on a sloper lip. Traverse right 3-4 moves into start of the direct line. Just as fun, and a touch harder IMO.
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Location: VA : The Hill : Stones : 500lb boulder : Quantum Leap (V6-7)
By: TravisMelin When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Think up a name, and ill change it. I haven't made it up to the hill in quite a while. Nice work on the FA! At some point we gotta get a big crew up there and crack into some of the real highball stuff.
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Location: WV : Bozoo : Bozoo Bouldering : Downstream Boulders : Boulder Field : Photo
By: TravisMelin When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree. It is slap and squeezes backside. Memory is fuzzy but there are many small lines on it, maybe 8? none harder than v5 or 6? thats about all i got.
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Location: WV : Bozoo : Bozoo Bouldering : Main Area Bouldering : Hershey Boulder : Hershey Squirt (V5)
By: TravisMelin When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: eeh, hard to gauge a one move wonder. I bet its more like V9 in august.
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Location: WV : Bozoo : Bozoo Bouldering : Project Area Boulders : The Brain Boulder : Kung Foo Hand (V6)
By: TravisMelin When: Jan 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: we climbed it to within 4 inches of the top multiple times one day, but couldnt commit to the very last off balance move soo high up...so we ended up down climbing and dropping. This was in the massive humidity of august, and it felt maybe 6ish to me then, probably very different grade in good temps.
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Location: WV : Bozoo : Bozoo Bouldering : Main Area Bouldering : Pocket Boulder : Unknown12 (V6)
By: TravisMelin When: Jan 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would go with too silly. Seemed quite doable and i think the grade is probably close. From what I remember it was a one move wonder, and it was the very first move to an undercling?, and it was super awkward, dabby, and tweaky.
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Location: WV : Bozoo
By: TravisMelin When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome! Thanks for all the input Shawn. I would say just keep doing what your doing and Jay or I can edit the name/FA info as you comment. Id say your account of Bozoo history will always supersede the 2nd, 3rd, and 5th hand information that I have about it.
It would be fun to do a Bozoo day sometime after the snow melts and get a bunch of folks out the together at the same time.
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Location: WV : Bozoo : Bozoo Bouldering : Project Area Boulders : The Project Boulder : Unknown11 (V4)
By: TravisMelin When: Jan 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried it a few years ago, seemed like the logical sds into this line, though I suppose an independent route may exist as well.
I used the small chalked nib in the photo for a left hand and I think the jug start of the project to move into a right gaston, then some super difficult moves in the roof area, then moved out left to the V4 stand start. But.. I did not send.
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Location: VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : Picnic Area : Olympus Boulder : Fulgora (V8)
By: TravisMelin When: Dec 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yea, the starting hold may have broken some since I first sent it....but im pretty sure that doesnt change who did the first ascent :)
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Location: VA : The Hill : Stones : Values Boulder : Thoughtless Minds (V8)
By: TravisMelin When: Dec 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job andrew! Now send american taliban and tell me it deserves an upgrade to v9., my retrospectrograph thinks it does.
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Location: VA : The Hill : Stones : Burlstain Boulder : Wasabi Wow (V8)
By: TravisMelin When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congrats to Mark Mellette for putting this one down yesterday!
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Barrel Boulders : Open Season (V4-5) : Photo
By: TravisMelin When: Nov 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Huge egg. we saw it there back in september. I assumed it was a vulture nest. My experience is that they love to nest on top of boulders... least thats what they do here in the south.
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Location: VA : The Hill
By: TravisMelin When: Nov 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some more vaguish directions....https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=201000115431571498961.0004ce6192de20d315487&msa=0&ll=37.455278,-79.62488&spn=0.001141,0.002411
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Location: WV : Bozoo : Iceberg Area : Playing Hookie (5.8)
By: TravisMelin When: Nov 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: WV administrator will have to do that. Stephan moved back to germany:)
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Location: VA : The Hill : Stones : 500lb boulder : Quantum Leap (V6-7)
By: TravisMelin When: Oct 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very close on this today. Should go easy the next visit, V6-7 is probably accurate.
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Location: VA : The Hill : Stones : Values Boulder : Thoughtless Minds (V8)
By: TravisMelin When: Oct 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aaron and I sent this today. Good temps, low humidity but still burly!
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Location: VA : The Hill : Stones : Values Boulder
By: TravisMelin When: Oct 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think T.M. will go at V8/9 or so. BUT there is a very obvious sit start that I just today noticed. From this I think it will be double digits for sure, as will the sit start into A. T.
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Location: VA : The Hill : Stones : Values Boulder : Thoughtless Minds (V8)
By: TravisMelin When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: goddamn. this thing is hard for me to put together.
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Location: VA : The Hill : Stones : Values Boulder : The Art of Deceit (V7)
By: TravisMelin When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sent today. felt pretty easy actually...
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