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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Bridges over Troubled Water (5.10a)
By: Travis Hibbard When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doesn't the pic of "Sam" in the final dihedral look a whole heck of a lot like the end of Scars and Tripes?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Travis Hibbard When: Dec 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Either looking for a ton of aid and walls or long, awesome, alpine free climbs...The Diamond would be on the list along with a few others, so I may need to bump our trip back a little to get us a better chance of nice weather.... Thanks, CV!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Travis Hibbard When: Dec 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Obviously it depends on how big of a snow year it was, but how are the routes in the park around Memorial Day weekend? Trying to plan a trip and were in between sweating to death in Zion or needing crampons and axes in the park...advice?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Oct 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My wife and I climbed this route this past Thursday in about 12 hours car to car, a few tips from our outing.
1. Start early, we hiked in under dark and easily found the base before light by headlamp. Waited for first light and went.
2. The only pitches we linked were 1 & 2
3. The second main chimney pitch felt like the crux for me. The first main chimney pitch had mostly crack climbing until the last 20-30 ft of #4 C4 size to the belay. Also, the 3rd main chimney pitch however a l... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Cockometer (5.10)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Oct 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun Route
Gear
.5, 4, .75, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2 all C4
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Wounded Knee (5.11-)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Oct 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt easier than 10+ to me,
thin hands to a ledge, a wide section to a ledge, wide hands to a ledge. Really fun route in my opinion, I liked the fact that it wasn't a plug and chug route, made you think.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Oct 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree for the bolts to be replaced. 2nd pitch provides a fall onto a ledge that would be prettly likely if you slipped from the stemming moves.
2nd bolt ladder required quite a reach to get to and since you're either placing gear behind a flake or running it out from the belay, a bolt earlier in that section would definitely protect any 5.9ish leader the comfort in making the moves.
Just my 2 cents
Overall a decent 2nd pitch and a couple bolt ladders is more than worth it to stand on that ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Oct 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route last Thursday with my wife, very fun!
Rack: doubles to #1 C4, triples 2/3 C4, 1 #4, 1#5. The triples felt adequate on the first pitch as I placed a few more 3's towards the bottom and the majority of the 2's near the end of the pitch. Used the #5 C4 at the bolt on the 2nd pitch and the 4 later in the 2nd pitch.
The Climb: Excellent first pitch! After multiple days at the creek this pitch felt much easier than what I was expecting, I agree with the s... more >>
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Danger High Voltage (5.8)
By: Travis Hibbard When: May 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In retrospect I could've been a little better with my gear beta...
Once you make it about 35-40 ft up the route the chimney begins, for the first 15-20 ft there are .75 and #2 placements in a crack on the pillar right of the chimney....after that to the pedestal belay a #4 big bro works best. A #6 C4 as mentioned above is really tipped out for protection...
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Large Roof Area : Multiple Stab Wounds (5.11a)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really a fun route...
Just make sure you keep your head about you until you're clipped into that 2nd bolt...
This would be a great route if it got more traffic...
Great friction....great movement
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Hidden Treasure (5.11b) : Photo
By: Travis Hibbard When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually I think Chris is smiling because he just placed a piece after 5 attempts with poorly sized gear...
Sorry to rat you out Chris
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Barnburner (5.10d) : Photo
By: Travis Hibbard When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: HA! Talk about weird... Definitely isn't that much greenery anymore...
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Laceration Jam (5.10b R) : Photo
By: Travis Hibbard When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you can get up the 1st two pitches this will be no problem at all. Plenty of features on both sides of the face to either stem or its tight enough you can wedge your whole body in.
It's a walk in the park
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : A mind Forever Voyaging (A3+ PG13) : Photo
By: Travis Hibbard When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that "Oz"
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Jump to Something Good (5.11b)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The upper part of this route has some of my favorite climbing at the bluff.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Soft Touch (5.12b)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm that "friend"
Not a big fan of the bottom half while the rest of the route has pretty enjoyable climbing.
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Mr. Lean (5.11d)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, I put it up here forever ago as a place holder. Darin, switch this to under Chris or yourself so that a better description of someone that lead the thing can put down.
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Laceration Jam (5.10b R) : Photo
By: Travis Hibbard When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Perspective of the Head
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Son of Great Chimney Direct (5.12a)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this on TR over Labor Day weekend, absolutely amazing route. The finishing moves didn't seem too hard so i'm guessing Kris is right on with the finish.
Incredible lead Kris
Best route at DL
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Two Hoofers (5.12)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Aug 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations Guys!
Looks like you had an awesome time. The "groove" looks badass
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower : West Face (5.7 C2)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Aug 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be Careful on the Approach!
In the Talus about 1/2 the way to the bivy I had a loose rock fall and dislocate my ankle. Absolutely devastated any chance at the ascent so be very careful with the bags.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Perfect Crimb Area : The Perfect Crimb (5.9)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Aug 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can also be lead on gear. I placed nothing bigger than a .75 C4 on the whole route but there are plenty of places to stop and plug in stuff.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : New Vice Area : Frequent Flatulence (5.10b)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Aug 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In all the times i'd gone last time I finally thought of trying it on gear, well it actually went alright
Gear Beta:
.5 C4 in a pod just above the first bolt
.4 C4 just above 2nd bolt
Blue TCU in flake just to the right before mantle ledge
Silver & Purple TCU in horizontal seam just right of mantle ledge
Blue TCU in textured crack above mantle ledge (only 2 lobes)
#4 BD nut just above the blue TCU
Overall the gear looked decent. I don't know how much i'd trust the 0 & 00 in the seam rig... more >>
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : New Vice Area : Frequent Flatulence (5.10b)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Aug 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been on this several times over the years. I'm heading out this weekend and always wondered if it'd ever been done on gear? There is reasonable gear most of the way with a little runout at the top.
Anyone have any idea?
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Don't bring a knife to a gu... (5.11b)
By: Travis Hibbard When: Jun 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route!
One of if not my favorite routes at Palisade...
Awesome movement at the bottom that is only slightly marred by the climbing at the end.
It was a pleasure belaying Randy on this route and seconding it.
I would HIGHLY recommend this route.
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