Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Pitch 1 of Physical Graffiti


Member Since: Nov 29, 2010
Last Visit: Jun 19, 2013
Contact transattic


Point Rank: # 13,764
Total Points: 11
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has transattic been climbing?










Contributions


All 25 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 6 | Posts 3 | Stars 11 | Ratings 4

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Pitch 1 of Physical Graffiti

Pitch 1 of Physical Graffiti

transattic : Self

Mar 20, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Unknown Slab (5.5)
By: transattic When: May 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nice variety of slopers and crimps. Some manteling for kicks. Crux at the start. Cakewalk from thereafter!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Slab 2 (5.5)
By: transattic When: May 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Finger slopers with occasional crimps. Not much variety. You might want to warm up here but not worth the time. I had much more fun at Unknown Slab (or Slab 1) that is just the right of this route and to the left of Grama and the Green Suede Shoes.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Grama and the Green Suede S... (5.7+)
By: transattic When: May 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Off-width crack with fun-filled mantels, crimps, fist jams, armbars, and stems.

This was a challenging and risky climb without Camalot #4-5's, BUT it is absolutely possible.

So you have an idea of how it was possible, I was able to protect the route using #1-3 Camalots, #10-12 stoppers, draws, and double-length runners. The runners came in handy when I had to set pros deep within the narrow cracks within the obvious humongo crack. I gotta remind you that if you had @POUND... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Ana Mountains : Ortega Falls
By: transattic When: Apr 20, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: map coordinates:

@33.622624,-117.427025

maps.google.com/maps?f=q&sourc...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Almost Vertical (5.7)
By: transattic When: Mar 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Fun to trad. If you want to avoid getting your rope stuck (or high drag) in the lower crack, you can either 1) attach 2-4' runners to pro or 2) skip pro until the first top-out, but that's if you don't mind taking a 20-foot risk.

Continue rest of climb with pro, while keeping the rope out of the lower crack.

For anchor, use 3 cams and 1 chock. Avoid the loose flat stone wedged between the left and middle rocks.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Count on Your Fingers (5.9)
By: transattic When: Mar 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: You can also climb a 5.8+ version of this route starting from the right of the arete and slowly making your way back to the main route for top rope.

There are 2 bolts on the top-out, which also allows quick setup for top rope.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: LOST: Rack @ Echo Cliffs, Nov. 27th - FoundLost and FoundtransatticNov 30, 2010
re: LOST: Rack @ Echo Cliffs, Nov. 27th - FoundLost and FoundtransatticNov 29, 2010
LOST: Rack @ Echo Cliffs, Nov. 27th - FoundLost and FoundtransatticNov 29, 2010

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Dihedral 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Ortega Falls

South Face Right 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume

Grama and the Green Suede Shoes 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

Fingers 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Ortega Falls

Count on Your Fingers 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Thin Wall

Right Center 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume

Left 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume

Left Center 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume

Almost Vertical 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Thin Wall

Unknown Slab 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

Slab 2 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

South Face Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume

Left Center

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume

Left

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume

Right Center

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume