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Member Since: Oct 18, 2006
Last Visit: Aug 18, 2014
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Point Rank: # 8,095
Total Points: 32
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradsplatter been climbing?










Contributions


All 52 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 22 | Posts 9 | Stars 12 | Ratings 7

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fi : FI Fun (5.3 R)
By: Tradsplatter When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: Did Fi Fun for fun today in 2 pitches with 60m rope no problem. Small amount of rope drag at the hand traverse but no issue. Rappel anchor going off the west from summit was in fair to good condition. Took a bit of effort to get the rope going on pull-down but manageable. Certainly a nice route for a solo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Harmon Flatironette : South Arete (5.3)
By: Tradsplatter When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: Just tried out this route. Sporting a head cold along with ice melting on the arete made it a little extra fun. Most of the 5th class seemed to occur between the start and the large boulder chunk resting about 15 or 20 meters up near the arete. Probably best as a solo climb, but I had a partner, so we roped up. Gear used (in order): #6 stopper, double runner (girth hitched just below a loose block - solid placement though), #2 Camalot, red Tricam. Enjoyable climb but lots of lichen a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Mission To Mars (5.10a)
By: Tradsplatter When: Oct 3, 2007

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Comments: This climb is a waste of bolts. I only followed this one, but it seemed roughly correct rating at 10a. A few fun moves and should be a trad route IMO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Right Line (5.9)
By: Tradsplatter When: Oct 3, 2007

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Comments: Decent route for a warm up. If there is a 5.9 move on this route, I sure could not find one.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Wizard Rock : Wave Yer Wand (5.6)
By: Tradsplatter When: Aug 18, 2007

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Comments: Lead this pitch today. Thought middle section below dead tree was runout but could be I just didn't look enough for pro. Still, a fun moderate line. Very convenient trad line with the top anchors from Magic Wand. Good gear and cool route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Wizard Rock : Driven Like the Snow (5.7)
By: Tradsplatter When: Aug 18, 2007

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Comments: Climbed this excellent choss pile on 8/8/07. Accurate description of runout start...pretty mossy slab start but not too scary. Be on lookout for loose blocks. Fun crux section, reasonably good gear. Climbing is not too difficult..the real crux is making sure you don't peel blocks off this route. Nice new route...you get the alpine experience without the altitude!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Wizard Rock : Right Arete (5.7)
By: Tradsplatter When: Aug 17, 2007

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Comments: Beautiful views of Boulder Canyon at the top. Loose blocks are easy to find, be extra careful. Fun climbing, used three smaller tri-cams, handful of nuts, a couple small hexes, and 0.5 - #2 Camalot. Dislodged one softball-sized, portable foothold that meteored to the ground. Belayer is advised to stay well out of rockfall for this route. Rating felt accurate. Plenty of lichen and choss to be had for the connoisseur.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Ho Hum (5.4)
By: Tradsplatter When: Jun 14, 2007

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Comments: Bolt anchors recently added by Rossiter are nearly out of reach for short people. Being one of those short people, I found the crux of the route was trying to stretch to get slings onto the rings. Placing a microcam in small pocket left of the bolts for a safety helps make it a little more secure, so I didn't peel of the ledge trying to clip the left ring.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Nick Of Time (5.6)
By: Tradsplatter When: Jun 14, 2007

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Comments: Climbed this nice corner line with the recommended big cams. After the gardening and beta from the FA, it probably seems not as difficult to subsequent leaders. Giving it a 5.6 rating with maybe a borderline 5.7 move at bulge. Nevertheless, it was a fun route with some nice holds throughout. Top anchors are well placed and convenient belay anchors at bottom make this a very easy, enjoyable, trad route on otherwise sporty face. Nice job, Ron!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face, North Side (5.3 R)
By: Tradsplatter When: Jun 4, 2007

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Comments: Did this beautiful route yesterday in 5 long pitches (60m rope) and one tiny last pitch to the summit. Fun climbing. More lichen than I'm like'n but not too bad. Crux made me a little nervous on the runout but then, what would Flatirons be without runouts!? I would concur with a 5.5 S rating in several spots. 5.4 seems a bit conservative to me. I got in good gear on pitches 4 and 5. A little thunderstorm threatened our journey in middle of pitch 3, but we lucked out. The ridge was easy and ... more >>


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Tradsplatter When: May 16, 2007

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Comments: I agree with Tony and Jack. It only takes 10 seconds to put a knot in the ends of the rope, what a no-brainer! Communication and awareness of what is going on above and below you saves the rescue squad a lot of trouble, keeps your hospital bills down to nothing, not to mention the unwelcome attention of negative media stories! Having a middle mark, or bi-color rope is just plain smart. In many people's mind, somehow it seems the emphasis on climbing safety sort of peters out when it comes to ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: Tradsplatter When: Mar 8, 2007

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Comments: Hopped on Standard Route today. It was quite windy but had some sunshine, too. The crux sure seemed like 5.8 or 8+ to me today...maybe it's just getting back into the swing of things after long winters nap?! Snow is all melted off at the water pipe thanks to the warm weather.


Location: CO : DMM To Start Making Offsets...
By: Tradsplatter When: Mar 2, 2007

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Comments: Awesome!!!


Location: OR : Rescuers on Mt Hood find Sn...
By: Tradsplatter When: Dec 21, 2006

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Comments: Lesson learned, when conditions hit the fan like they did - hunker in your bunker till nature co-operates and you might have better odds than these unfortunate souls did. All too easy to second guess from comfort of nice, warm home though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Twofers (5.8)
By: Tradsplatter When: Nov 22, 2006

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Comments: Led this enjoyable route for first time on beautiful fall day, yesterday. This climb did not feel like a 5.8 to me - got stung by a bee as soon as pulled over the roof, so maybe this adds a half grade of difficulty! Roof is a fun little puzzle & easily protectable. There are two nut placements in the crack directly above the roof and at least one hex left and above if you look around for it.


Location: Todd Skinner dies in Yosemi...
By: Tradsplatter When: Nov 3, 2006

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Comments: Very sad story. Take care of your gear and it will take care of you.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Thunder Point : Center Tap Corner (5.7)
By: Tradsplatter When: Nov 1, 2006

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Comments: Enjoyable lead. Be careful on awkward moves at the start - not a lot of pro down low.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Babyback (5.5)
By: Tradsplatter When: Oct 30, 2006

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Comments: Long hike for a little crack, but it was fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Galactic Warrior (5.7)
By: Tradsplatter When: Oct 30, 2006

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Comments: Echo Tony, stiff lead for the 5.7 rating. Start, same as for Unity, doesn't have great gear but not too scary. Worked up a sweat even on a autumn day getting up and onto the slightly overhanging start of arete. Cams up to #3 Camalot worked well.


Location: Dyneema sling failure under...
By: Tradsplatter When: Oct 23, 2006

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Comments: At first glance, it appears clear that the failure (1) did not occur inside the weakest part of the sling (the girth hitched portion) and the (2) separation point of the fibers look very clean. These factors would seem to point toward some kind of cut or pre-existing condition rather than a result of simple break-failure under tension or shock load. Let us wait to hear what the fiber analysis can tell us before making any generalizations about dyneema materials or products. Personally, I tend t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tigger (5.5)
By: Tradsplatter When: Oct 19, 2006

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Comments: Did this route again and noticed the loose flake Aaron mentions below the crux roof above the 2nd belay. This flake is very tempting to use for a handhold and could easily come down and smash into the belayer or create serious rockfall for anyone below the route. Please be careful. An X mark chalked on the flake would be very useful, though I'm not keen on chalk in general.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Lost And Found : Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly (5.10 X)
By: Tradsplatter When: Oct 19, 2006

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Comments: Followed this route with Tony. Tonm is correct to point out you can string the first pitches together, but I would caution that the most direct ascent of the arete indeed has stiff 5.10 cruxes in my judgment. An X rating for leaderfall potential seems apt. Crux moves shown in photos are not easy to on-sight, depending on your climbing / lead ability, of course, due to the myriad of pocket options above the overhang - most of which are slopers. Tony does mention there are plenty of opportunitie... more >>