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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: Tradkelly When: Jun 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unfortunate news passed along by Colorado Mountain Club: Iran Emeson, owner of the property adjacent to tunnel 5 in Clear Creek Canyon known as Cat Slabs, is selling the land. Emerson has contacted the club to notify its members and others in the climbing community that effective June 30, the new owner will not allow climbing in the area and they intend to develop the land (building a house apparently).
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road : Saint Peter's Overlook : The Martyr (5.9)
By: Tradkelly When: Jul 31, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Instead of descending to the base of the climb directly, it is easy enough with a 70m to set an anchor on top of the climb and do two raps directly to the base - just barely. Each rap is a stretcher for a 70m rope (set your anchor as low as possible on the top of the tower with nuts). The walk from the base of the Martyr to Pearly Gates is much better done from on top and down - it's a grunt from below. And no, a single 70m rap won't put you at the start of Pearly Gates from the top. Unfortu... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Sunshine Wall : Sunshine Wall Routes : Tezcatlipoca (5.7)
By: Tradkelly When: Jul 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: And this is located where in the park??? Assume I don't have the guidebook you've listed as a reference. Thanks.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Bush League Buttress : User Friendly (5.9 R)
By: Tradkelly When: Jun 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route description doesn't sound like what we saw on the route today (after the burn, some approach and sighting info may be diff now...). Perhaps this is a different route, but the ratings seemed intact. From the loop at the end of the Wigwam Creek road, you can now see very clearly the entire buttress. Identify the big orange rock mass in the middle of the formation. You'll be climbing on the left side of it.
Looking at the Hubbell topo, you'll see a very large right-facing dihedral ... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: Tradkelly When: Apr 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is great fun, if a little short; nice new bolts to the decently set anchor. The third bolt is spinning, and I didn't have a wrench on me. The second pitch still has three old, nasty pitons, and they're not looking too good, all low on the pitch. Without big bros, it's a chore to protect the second pitch's last half; kinda nasty and sandy, and there are some loose rocks in some of the huecos that need to be watched for. The anchors on top of the pillar are ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: Tradkelly When: Dec 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Take a headlamp... walking down to the packs in the dark kinda bites. What a great climb!
Climbed 12/7. 1-3' snow on approach from Mills upward, but the boulderfields are more clear nearer the route. First pitch is thick and long, better condition than the route photo shows. Second pitch is nasty thin - a rotten 1/2" ice cap on 6-12" of hoar, and sometimes (sometimes) an inch or two of ice below that. Ice pro is scarce and shaky - all of our placements were Screamered and they still proba... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
By: Tradkelly When: Nov 25, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Indeed, it's in and pretty good, but needs more time to fill in all of the climbs. The far right, pillar, is broken at the top now and may fall on a lead. The rest of that wall (usually fills in with hanging 4-5 ice) isn't in at all. Right flow is in, sections of WI3 near the top. There are enough good lines for at least 6 parties to have independent lines. Left flow is in at 3 for first pitch, then a long snow gully with some ice below (low angle WI1+), second pitch has a great 3+ line and... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'...
By: Tradkelly When: Nov 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Shroud is partially in - left side looks pretty good, but right side only has a few small columns touching down. Three Tiers is in to the top of Tier 2, with between 2 and 4 feet of well-consolidated snow covering the approach and most of the climb. First pitch is small, only about 15' of WI2 at the transition, rock and snow only to the first anchor. Second pitch is much nicer, still WI2, but lots more ice all-around. The heavy snowcover makes the climb kind of dull - but we put the trai... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Bat Crack (5.10b/c)
By: Tradkelly When: Nov 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you lead it straight trad, and know how to climb cracks and OWs, it's IMHO pretty 8ish. I was dying on sport routes on CEP (yep, I suck at sport) and pointed at it, annoyed mightily, and told my partner "I'm climbing 'THAT' Anything with trad pro and not these bolts." The sport climbers all around us thought I was whacked for even carrying a rack up to the crag. I have been told, though, that if you use the face and eschew the crack (great OW holds, BTW) that it's pretty bloody hard. But... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : West Face (The Pinnacle Wes... : Crack Parallel (5.7)
By: Tradkelly When: Sep 18, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: On P1, I would only carry 1 black and 1 orange metolius, or comparable, camming units. The black backs up the funky piton for the left approach to the face (standard route up it, I believe), and the orange provides pro in the middle of a 35' easy runout section. Yeah, it's only 5.6 here, but it feels good to have some pro. The second pitch direct finish takes 9 QDs. Take a couple extra in case I don't know how to count. :)
It's the most solid route in the lower canyon; the firs... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : West Face (The Pinnacle Wes... : Crack Parallel (5.7)
By: Tradkelly When: Sep 16, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Above the last bolt on P2, the original line goes straight up to the chopped anchor. A single piton about 6' above the last bolt is visible after a relatively (for the route) difficult mantle move on the face, at the same point one would consider bailing left to the notch. The climbing above is just as good as below, and it's worth the straight-on finish.
With a 60m, you can reach the larger tree (30' ahead and 10' to climber's left at the topout), set an anchor, and walk the belay back to ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: Tradkelly When: Mar 4, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hidden Falls is a hookfest (as anyone who would climb there is probably aware), at about straight WI4. Both sides are in (2-3 lines possible simultaneously), and it was cold and brittle on 3-3. The heavy winds probably have blown off most of the spindrift that would have melted to reform anything; it's pretty ugly right now, but the mixed left-side stuff was fun for my partner. Me, I sketched out on my 2nd lead and got a rope from the leftside anchor. Difficult pro, not much left t... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Squid Face aka Pine Away (5.7+)
By: Tradkelly When: Dec 13, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree completely with Ben on Pine Away - harder than the grade indicates, and although I'm happy to have climbed it, it's not worth my repeating it. Thought about adding this earlier but didn't want to sound whiny about the 5.7+ rating. Were it my world, I'd regrade it in the 8+ to 9ish range as well.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Tradkelly When: Nov 29, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting onto the initial pillar, about 20', can be difficult unless you jam it. I liebacked with a green FCU at 8' and pumped out, unable to get in a piece in higher, about a foot below the pillar top. Use a #2 camalot to get on top of the pillar and recover it if you feel the need once you're on top. The landing area only has one rock, but it has a knob on it. A spotter kept my groundfall (with the pulled green FCU) from becoming a broken leg.
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