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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 22
Total Points: 12,592
Last Year: 202
Last 30 Days: 73
366 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 6068 | Routes 282 | Areas 80 | Photos 1388 | Page Improvements | Comments 1632 | Posts 948 | Stars 1173 | Ratings 565
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : The Frigate : Code of the Sea (5.12a)
By: Tradoholic When: 15 hours ago

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Comments: The topo line is slightly off in Jay's book. His line comes in from the left but I think it's more straight up.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: 20 hours ago

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Comments: Sorry, you are right Bob no bolt on mechanics. Fun climbing through that entire section from Torque Wrench to M but very run out like a solo. The bolt hole is still there on M, could use a nice patch someday.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Flakes (5.11)
By: Tradoholic When: 2 days ago

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Comments: P1 of this is a little tough and hard to protect, make sure you get a good small nut before getting into the thin crack. P3 has that hard boulder problem but it right on top of a bolt.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: 3 days ago

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Comments: That's a pretty extreme reaction AJ. No room for new bolts anywhere? What's your justification for that rationale?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I will probably never add that bolt, it's just an observation and I wanted to address it hopefully before someone else pops one in. Plenty of great safe climbing all over the mountain and plenty of spots that deserve a replacement bolt before this climb gets one added.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Yes, it would need to be placed off route of GA and placed to keep the climber away from MR on the left too. Basically straight up the center of that face, maybe 15-20 ft from the third bolt. From there straight up into the R and single bolt of Mechanics.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : Science Friction (5.10a) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: 6 days ago

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Comments: The first piece in this pic is the 2nd bolt on the route but if taking this start I would skip the first two bolts entirely.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : Science Friction (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Half a topo and little info in the Gaines+Vogel book. Gets 10a in the book but I think the initial slab must be harder. The cracks I took to start were 10a though.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : Torque Wrench (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: 6 days ago

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Comments: With a fourth bolt (drilled on lead of course) on the face up high this route could safely be independent and lead directly into Mechanics Route.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (p) Godzilla Face : Godzilla's Return (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Maybe a chip broke at the first bolt? I could not figure it out despite climbing two 10d's earlier. I started a bit further left and soloed to the second bolt at about 5.8. I took the "5.9 R" variation which is more like X rated. Did the Toads lip, clipped the bolt, traversed all the way left then back right to the second bolt, pretty bold but good climbing. P3 was ok but had plenty of weak flakes to watch put for. Descended via Rebolting develop... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : The Quarry (5.11c)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Some fun face climbing but overall so-so. I took the left 10d finish which I think leans toward 11a.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Bedrock (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: Yes, to the first bolt is a little intense. Make sure to traverse left at the second bolt (crux), a little hard to route find on this, a real thinking mans route. There's a thin flake between bolt 10 and 11, don't pull out on it, just crimp on top of it, might blow and change the route.

70m reaches the ground from the anchor.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Legends of the Fall (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: Great route but pretty heady to get to that first bolt, the gear below you isn't awesome. I took the 2nd pitch traversing right at the end to finish on the final pitch of Jonah.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (a) Northeast Buttress : Upper Northeast Buttress : Like'n to Lichen/Bitchin' L... (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: An admin musta added the FA because I didnt.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: If you take the left crack near the end of P1 to the bolted anchors there's two good choices to add some more difficulty. Clip a bolt above the bolted belay then go right for some 5.9+ or stay left through 3 bolts at 10b (Part of Crimes of Passion). They both join back up with Fingertrip.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Blankety Blank (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: Went up and led it anyway despite junk bolt on P2 and P3. P3 mantle is really cool. Tried to exit left to the anchors on P2 of Fred using the final bolt of Twinkle Toes but (found out later it's 11d) I couldn't figure the move out so I traversed off right instead under clinging in a roof to fingertrip.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : The Others : Devils Staircase : The Dark Angel Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 2, 2016

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Comments: I can't read the text in the pic, what do it say?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : Le Toit (5.12a)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 28, 2016

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Comments: Two dangers on this, under the roof there's two WAY loose blocks but they are easily avoided, probably should pull them out on a weekday soon. Second is at the start of P3, there's a .75 downward facing slot that my partner claimed was part of a larger loose block, this is located directly under the thin seam start of Pooper Scooper.

One more note, the manly way to do this would be to link P1 and 2.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : Elegant Arch (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Did this in 6 pitches with a 70, some simul for the last 30ft.

P1. We added a more unique pitch to start, El Whampo Direct (10a). Start at the same spot but follow a thin seam straight up, bending right into a layback, through a bush, then at a underclinging overhang make a move left then straight up a slab to the right of the easy crack (two 1/4in bolts). The slab is easy but runout through questionable bolts.

P2. Follow El Whampo right and belay under the roof notch that El Whampo finishes ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Consolation Direct (5.10a/b)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Did this in 4 pitches with a 70m, maybe simuled 15ft on the last pitch. Basically go straight up through regular Consolation then just slightly angle left. Just maybe 5.9+ not in the 10s I think.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro...
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 4, 2016

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Comments: That's just an empty field Bro. Looking for a place to crash?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : El Whampo (5.7) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: I made a bolt a bolt replacement database here:

goo.gl/forms/9ETLBdefwQ13LWvo2


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (m) The Weeping Wall : Surprise Direct (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Yea, R. The mystery bolt out right is off-route. Should be from the three bolt anchor, past a two bolt anchor (clip if you want), single bolt, double bolts, then single bolt. Pretty standard slab climbing with some extra excitement.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Flakes (5.11)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: Some of us are too tall for that heel hook ;)

If it's off grade (11c) for a shorter person then it's "reachy". I think this fits the bill nicely but I'm not short either. It's good to hear that a shorter person can do it but is it still 11c? I don't know, you tell me.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Flakes (5.11)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: Yep, still reachy on P3. Has anyone under 5'10 ever pulled the move clean?

I combined P1 and P2 taking the 5.8 variation on the left, going straight up the right facing dihedral is known as 10a, will want a #3 or #4 C4 probably for that.

I had done Price of Fear before so I did the 5.7 traverse pitch, pretty fun, finishes as Vampire does.


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