Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Tradoholic


Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,413
Last Year: 485
Last 30 Days: 49
287 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5770 | Routes 281 | Areas 80 | Photos 1377 | Page Improvements | Comments 1518 | Posts 884 | Stars 1073 | Ratings 557
Page 1 of 61.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Sampson (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: This thing is underrated. Bring a few small pieces to sew it up. It's all feet and back friction for the dihedral. The finish mantle is by far the hardest part. What's the bolted route just right of this?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Surprise (5.8 R)
By: Tradoholic When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: I linked 1 and 2 with a 70m no problem. Only the one distinct crux on P2 was 5.8.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle : The Step Away (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Fun stuff! The stemming is easy and the pro is great when you actually need it. Don't get suckered into the crack is all I have to say.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Hair Lip (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: With all the horror-speak I thought this would be a shit-show. The bolts are fine but a whip from the crux would definitely be awkward. You can rap this with one 70m from a tree up top.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Godzilla Face : Montezuma's Revenge (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: G.McCay's comment is mistaken. It goes like this...

Traverse in from the right into the small left facing corner, traverse more left on the bomber undercling for only a few feet, then try to figure out how the hell to get up and over. I shook out for around 20 minutes trying different angles until I figured out the beta. I used some mantle technique here.
After getting onto solid feet follow a thin flake and then a bumpy face to a ledge with one rusty bolt. I traversed left here to some new bo... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Flatman Chimney (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Get in the chimney for your first piece, then get out of the chimney in a lay-back. It's all over pretty quick.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face Left Side : Paisano Chimney (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: After the squeeze belay from two bolts on top of the next block. You can rap from here or go up wide chimney and take Eyes Wide Shut 5.7 to the top. EWS starts in the wide chimney with a stem, clips one bolt, surmounts the ledge then goes to the arete for one more bolt.

#5 C4 is great for the off-width.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Grace Slick (5.10b PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I liked P1. P2 was like floating up nothing through the crux which was fun but A. the line skipped the obvious weakness up and right through a thin crack so it was a bit contrived and B. it headed for a third bolt then abruptly angled left to the finish anchors when it would have been better to go straight up a nice crack to finish on newer anchors on the right or just keep going for the summit. Anyway, bring a few small cams to finish up a 5.8 crack for P2, it's sweet.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : The Haunting (V8)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A cool variation is turning around three times before starting. I call it "The Spins" V9


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northeast Buttress : Upper Northeast Buttress : My Pink Half of the Drainpi... (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Rad line, takes some gear know-how to keep the rope drag down. Not too hard either, 10a.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Too Biased (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Continue to the top for some more nice climbing. For P4 I zigged right to start then straight up through a roof right over a tree. Moves over the roof seem improbable but they go nicely.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Toe Tip (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch is a nice way to get to the jungle but the second pitch is a total contrivance.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Oz - (AKA The Road To Emera... (5.12b) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This pic is so midwest.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : North Face : Greasy Kid Stuff (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe a green C3 will work in the upper horizontal.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : North Buttress (5.5)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Start in a nice right facing corner, heading into some trees.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Steinke Basin Bouldering : Steinke Wall : ... : Heineken Crack (V2)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: WTF? People climb here?!!?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : After the Gold Rush (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Name changed, thanks Bob. Definitely wasn't 5.9!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Razor's Edge (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No bats but plenty of lizards. Yea, that's a thin flake!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There's three random bolts on the top, none set for rappel, I left a sling and locker on one to do three raps down to the ground.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : The Breeze (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Not R. I finished on the 5.7 end of The Jackal.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Northeast Farce (5.3)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The topo in the guide book doesn't quite scale as to how far you need to go in the dihedral. The traverse should start on a decent foot ledge with a piton in the middle at foot level. The traverse does go no hands for a move or two but is pretty chill.
From the top of the wide crack on P2 you should go more or less straight up passing two old bolts just right of a flake.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Bonamici Arete(aka Tequila) (V3 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: "Bonameathead Arete"?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Blankety Blank (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Second pitch crux bolt is still junk. 3rd pitch bolt isn't so great either so I bailed right after clipping. Funny that the badly needed crux bolts on this route haven't been replaced but all the others have.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Switchbacks, Direct Start (5.8 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Heading right to a second bolt is the route Betty, 5.10a.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : West Lark (5.5) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Right-o Brent. I've changed the description.


Page 1 of 61.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>