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Member Since: Sep 28, 2007
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact topher donahue


Point Rank: # 3,373
Total Points: 139
Last Year: 26
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 116 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 66 | Stars 4 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Tague Yer Time (5.12) : Photo
By: topher donahue When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Hilarious! I looked at this and wondered, what kind of fools would do a big route in the Black as a threesome? Then I realized it was me, Anthony, and Jen on Tague Yer Time...


Location: General Climbing : Pic - 5/24 South Rim Wall B... : Photo
By: topher donahue When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Hilarious! I looked at this and wondered, what kind of fools would do a big route in the Black as a threesome? Then I realized it was me, Anthony and Jen on Tague Yer Time...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Red Dihedral (5.12d R)
By: topher donahue When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Yo, Skinny Legs, Craig deserves credit for lots of great firsts, but this isn't one of them. I replaced the bolts and was the first to climb the whole thing in one pitch placing all the gear on lead. I broke a big hold on the second pitch during one attempt which does make the second pitch a little harder. Placing the gear on the go and doing it in a single pitch feels a lot like 5.13.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Stonehenge : The Fiend (5.13c)
By: topher donahue When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: The bolts on this are really corroded, old, and sketchy. Many of the routes in the area from the same era have been rebolted, but this one needs some TLC.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Phee-nix (5.12b R)
By: topher donahue When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Led this onsight with a couple terrified spotters in about 2001. Probably an irresponsible way to do it, but since there seems to be a new history of the route, it seemed worth mentioning. Climbs more like a highball V4 with a 5.10 finish than a 5.12.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : 10,000 Leagues (5.11- R)
By: topher donahue When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Good to hear this climb is getting a bit of traffic and quality assessment by the experts, but I am a bit curious how it could get an easier grade than Lene's Dream, when you have to do the crux of Lene's Dream en route?

Also, on the pitch Scott describes as pitch 2, it appears he exited left early. This pitch is drawn in too far left in Levin's book. On the FA, we angled right until just a few feet from the 5.8 pitch on The Edge, (as close as you can get during the closed season and still be ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : West Owl Direct (aka Silly ... (5.12a C2 R)
By: topher donahue When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: I'm with Bob. Leave the original name and leave the original free rating of .12a R. Unless you practice it and rehearse the gear, it's a scary lead. For grade, it's about spot on with other granite, .12a, trad testpieces. The onsight lead deserves an R rating but is a lot of fun and can be made safe enough. Tri-cams do help in the square pin scars. According to legend, after the FFA Bachar first said it was .11a or so - me thinks he was climbing really well at the time.

Another good bit of triv... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: topher donahue When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: Just climbed this onsight to the anchors at the end of the 5.12, then fell off shortly thereafter. Stellar pitch. On par with the Red Dihedral for quality and flavor - not much else near the grade in the Front Range is comparable. There are only 2-3 solid natural gear placements on the entire pitch, most of them in the first 30 feet of 5.11 before the biz. I can see how it would go with less bolts, some pitons and pre-placed mank with long slings to clip low, but I agree with others posting her... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: topher donahue When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Ha! Perfect! As I understand Mr Byrne's request, if Chris can finish the route, then it's all good. My hat's off to you, Thom Byrne - instead of grabbing the crowbar, you throw down the gauntlet to say that if you're gonna cheat the game, you gotta raise the bar!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: topher donahue When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: Don't get your panties in a wad, guys; now Archangel can repeat the history of China Doll. Some monkey of the future can lead it on gear (in part thanks to the route being cleaned by people clipping the bolts), risking his tail next to perfectly bomber bolts and add to the mystique of the whole thing. The heroes of Archangel can join the heroes of China Doll in wondering if the crack should have been bolted entirely or if just a bolt or two (or none) was enough. In the mean time, we c... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Veterans With Vertigo (5.12- R)
By: topher donahue When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: Maybe we need a double star system: one for the actual climbing experience and one for each subsequent ascent's satisfaction with the previous ascent's report on mountain project.

If you belay instead of simulclimb, the last pitch(es) are not too bad.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Circadian Rhythms (5.9+)
By: topher donahue When: Oct 5, 2012

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Comments: For maximum value, clip the bolt (it was a rusty spinner but replaced in recent years) and climb into the thin crack without climbing the chimney to the left. 5.9 plus, hmm, about 10 letter grades....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Undertow (5.10a A4- R)
By: topher donahue When: Jul 11, 2012

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Comments: Ah, that makes sense - the Ahab board. I thought maybe that's what you'd beat me with if I'd have decided to try it before your send....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Undertow (5.10a A4- R)
By: topher donahue When: Jul 6, 2012

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Comments: Good work, guys! Was just up there a couple of weeks ago and rapped in to check out that line. After seeing your chalk and gear, I realized it was an active project, so didn't pursue it - but I am super curious: what was the old flimsy wooden board doing strapped like Ahab to that last bulge?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Gallito (5.11)
By: topher donahue When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: The bolting on this used to feel just fine, but I pried off two huge flakes, one before the first bolt, and one before the roof. The climbing is more continuous and safer now, but it does feel kind of sketchy, especially climbing off the ground to the first bolt with a lousy landing. Would the FA crew consider re-bolting the lower half to suit the climb without the massive time-bomb jugs it used to have?

Seems like adding a low bolt and then lowering the bolt below the roof a few inches so ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
By: topher donahue When: May 11, 2012

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Comments: I'd be keen to help find the bolt placements and help with the replacement of Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. If you Estes crew decide to get together some monkeys with hand drills, let me know. Likely the best multi-pitch sport climb in the Front Range....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski De... (Steep Snow R)
By: topher donahue When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: It was skied in the '90s for sure (Mike Pennings and partner), probably in the '80s too - it's a super obvious ski objective. First ski descents in The Park are pretty hard to know - recording such things wasn't really part of the local culture until recently, and there was a really active and talented ski mountaineering community living and exploring on skis in the area in the '80s.

Approaching from Wild Basin without a car shuttle is the best way to go - it allows you to travel lighter, with... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dark Star (probably not Rig... (WI3+ M5-)
By: topher donahue When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: I'm not sure about the Right Chimney, but I do know the photos posted here are all from Dark Star. There are three thinner/harder and really good unnamed smears that form occasionally on the smooth wall to the right, but the main deep chimney cleft with the classic ice climb is Dark Star. The harder lefthand start is certainly better when it is in condition.

One of the funnest adventures I ever spent in the Park: approached Dark Star by climbing the Flying Buttress direct, climbed Dark Star ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Nobody's Home (5.12b/c)
By: topher donahue When: May 1, 2012

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Comments: Only 30 feet of new terrain, Chris, but it's a wild 30! I talked to Eric Doub (the name Nobody's Home was suggested by Eric, in fact) a while ago about it, and he said Domestic Abuse traverses the roof all the way out to the arete before going up on easier terrain to the Country Club anchor. Nobody's Home goes about halfway out the roof before going straight up to the Country Club anchor.

I know the Nobody's Home headwall has been toproped for years by going out to the arete and then foot tra... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12b PG13)
By: topher donahue When: Apr 28, 2012

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Comments: I didn't place the new anchor, but I was in on the discussion deciding to add it. The reason for the new anchor was to avoid the rope running across, and leveraging when top-roping, the big detached block which sits on the slab between the lip and the bolted anchor on Athlete's Feat. It seemed like a matter of time and freeze/thaw cycles before someone pulled it down with lethal results.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Mexican Picnic (5.12b/c)
By: topher donahue When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: For the full 5.13 enchilada, start at the Water World dihedral right of Tourist Extravagance, go up 30'and traverse left across a burly undercling/jam, cross Tourist Extravagance above its bolt ladder, clip 2 bolts with some vertical yoga in the Skatepark scoop thing, and finish up the Mexican Picnic arete cracks.

For the mild-ish 5.11 tamale, climb the 5.11 section of Mexican Picnic from Country Club to the anchor at 30 meters, just before the upper 5.12 crux.

A 70 meter rope just makes t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Arms Bazaar (5.12a R)
By: topher donahue When: Nov 9, 2011

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Comments: This thread would be a great study of climber psychology. One guy says the gear seems pretty good. Another says he pulled it all and decked. Another says the one who decked must have had a bad belayer because he pulled all the gear and didn't deck. Another credits the climbing gods. Another says it's easy for the grade. Classic!

P.S. - If you're tall enough, and don't fill your jams with cams, you can place a really good nut up high before doing the crux and have a bombproof TR through the ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Tague Yer Time (5.12)
By: topher donahue When: Jul 15, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for the kudos, Scott. You're welcome! Since you brought up the "established" aspect of the climb and "cleaning", I thought I'd clarify that Jared and I established the climb on lead with almost no cleaning. A few dirty fingerlocks was about it. That's why it is such a great climb - it was clean in the first place!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Le Diamant E'ternal (5.13b/c)
By: topher donahue When: May 20, 2011

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Comments: A few of us Estes Park climbers have done this, too - around the same time as Hank's 2nd ascent. Chalk washes off in the rain, so it always feels like an FA. Mid 13 micro grips for sure. It goes without the escape at the top....


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: topher donahue When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: There is a mega quality variant start to Astrodog: A 300' splitter that goes from hands to fingers just to the left of the normal Astrodog start. You can reach it by either starting up the first ramps of the Flakes, or via rappel from the awkward rappel anchor in the middle of the big flake (rappel #11 on Jason's topo) a pitch below the first short 5.11. Angle upriver from that rappel and start climbing below the sickest hand crack in the canyon. 2 pitches of perfect splitter.

... more >>


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