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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : ... : Photo
By: tooTALLtim When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, P3 is quite cool.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Unknown 5.10+ (left of Nake... (5.10+)
By: tooTALLtim When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, the next corner left of Naked and the Dead is Fuel Injected Hard Body. This Unnamed 5.10+ is left of FIHB.
A #3 C4 fits in the pod as well.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Dee is Dancing (5.10d)
By: tooTALLtim When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for equipping this fine route!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Unnamed (5.10+)
By: tooTALLtim When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of those fun routes of all sizes.
It quickly goes to big hands at the start, step behind the pillar and stem up with a #.75 (BD) to a tricky transition from the pillar (the top wobbles) to the crack (a bit sandy/loose here, watch out).
The OW section takes BD #4, #5, and even #6. If one were to sew this section up, take two #4's, two #5's, and one #6. With some trading and walking, one set is totally fine.
Doubles from #.75 to @PO... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Serpent (5.10b R)
By: tooTALLtim When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Make sure you bring extra underclings for the second pitch, it's fantastic!
P1 and P2 are easily combined with a 60m.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Lizards & Scorpions w/ Sky ... (5.11+ PG13)
By: tooTALLtim When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh Merriam and I spent about 6 hours cleaning the last pitch of this route. We trundled loose blocks, swept off sand, and shoveled rat shit. The pitch is now much safer and more enjoyable. There is still much cleaning to be done, however.
We left one rat poo-cemented block in place, the one below the “5.7” bulge. It could easily be removed, but we felt that it held some of the original character of the route, and we found it could be avoided while keeping the move at the same grade.
It i... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You think I'm fucking around here? Mark it zero!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : One Way Sunset (5.10c)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I kinda like dirty pitches in the middle of long classics. But after the four star pitches 1 and 2, pitch 3 just sucked. I looked up at pitch 4 and we rapped off!
We were able to skip the rope-eating pull by doing a 60m rappel to the Fractal anchors (from the P2 anchors).
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Tulgey Wood (5.10a)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The third pitch will take some BD #4's.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Fritz's Fantasy (5.10b)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a bit easy to stay in the OW at the beginning (on the right side of the pillar), but was very happy I got on the face after the second bolt.
Exciting face moves and strenuous mantles!
I'd also swear there were around 14-15 bolts. I could also be crazy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: E Johnson: Birds get to fly because they have wings, fish get to live underwater because they have gills, and trad climbers get to climb cracks because they use equipment available since the late '70s that protect cracks without leaving a mark. If you want to climb cracks, learn to place gear in them. No one is making you climb cracks, go nuts on bolted slabs! Just skip the bolts, I mean cracks!
Just because the rock can be bolted doesn't mean it should be. Placing a nut in a crack and remov... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Buried Treasure was intentionally created as a sport route, to provide an easy multi-pitch clip-up for newer climbers (this is how we rationalize bolting cracks). In almost all places, it can also be protected with trad gear. If you prefer to place gear, bring your trad rack (nuts and cams up to 1") and see how many bolts you can skip. If you prefer to clip bolts, bring your quickdraws, no nuts needed.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2: Great pitch, too bad there's lots of bolts in the way. Easily lead with natural, removable gear (except the contrived arete ending).
Bolted finger cracks, has everyone else gone crazy? How has this not been chopped?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This place really puts the "bolt" in "Bolter Canyon". Pretty sad stuff when bolts are 6" from perfect cracks. But I didn't garden and develop the place, so I guess you get to bolt the hell out it if you get there first, right?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Green Dihedral (5.7)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So good as one pitch! What a gem!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Green Dihedral (5.7) : Photo
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: They still look good, thanks for making that better!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : High Plains Drifter (5.10b)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are some great RP placements to be had on the .10b start! I can't believe people are saying this is PG-13, nonetheless R.
If you got up via Fat City, the .10b off the P1 belay warms you up for the .10b start to HPD.
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Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : Wine and Roses : The Chief (5.9)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So short....not worth it till you do the other, longer routes.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Endless Crack (5.9)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On P1: Instead of heading over to the bolt after the crack ends, quest upwards on the face straight up. This leads to another overlap where you can get some gear. Keep going up, traverse left to a water groove where you can get a good #0.3 Camalot, and then reverse the traverse back right onto the face, and belay on the "big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block" above the mentioned slings at the end of Mission Impossible. A quick down lead will get you to the rap station.
This ... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Hummingbird Way aka Snively... (5.9)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We were very happy having up to a #6 Camalot.
How is this a "hand and fist crack"? Did your hands get stung by bees and swell up before you got on this climb? The crack leading up to the traverse is mainly fists to offwidth, with a few hand jams to be found.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: tooTALLtim When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the descent again, and stayed further right (climber's right) of the dotted red line. It wasn't so loose, and a bit easier. It still meets up the "Short Down climb"
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Photo
By: tooTALLtim When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Famous for putting access at risk.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Northwest Corner (5.8)
By: tooTALLtim When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For added excitement, don't bail around the corner, but continue straight up the corner to the top!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9) : Photo
By: tooTALLtim When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Starting up the crack on the left of the photo, going straight up the face, and rejoining the line is way more fun and exposed. And it's only 5.8.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: tooTALLtim When: Aug 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last several pitches are amazing, among the best on Hallett, but the first pitches are just ok.
It'd be great if the direct start was better.
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