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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Off Line (5.8)
By: Tony T. When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty committing in the sense that it's not grid-bolted. The bolts are about 7-10 feet apart. I actually would have liked to place a few pieces of pro while I had to rescue lead it for someone who got a little gripped and had to back down. Fun route though! I just wouldn't recommend it for the leader lacking confidence or a new leader.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mount Neva : North Ridge
By: Tony T. When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such a fun climb! Everything about it was quality! We might have climbed on more low 5th class terrain, but the rock is bomber, the holds are ample, and the views/exposure is fantastic!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Honestly, listen to others advice and climb Zot instead of P1, and Rebuffat's Arete.
I think with those two substitutions, this is a four star route. However, without them it's not nearly up to the same "every pitch is fantastic" standard of say Ruper.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Tony T. When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm wondering if anyone has been up Lamb's Slide lately? I am speculated that with the dry and warm temps that Lamb's Slide will be alpine ice earlier than normal this year. I'm planning an ascent of Kiener's between July 30th through August 1st.
Thanks!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: Tony T. When: Jul 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you happen to know what the crack on the right of that exit is called/rated? We climbed Osiris today, and decided to try the variation, but it was markedly more difficult than 5.7+. I'm seeing in the Gillett guide that it might be a 5.9 or 5.10b?!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: Tony T. When: Jun 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a heads up on the rappel "anchors": the newest looking, red, 9/16", tubular webbing is definitely looking cut/frayed on the first anchor at the top. If you think of it, maybe bring new 1" webbing for the anchors. A few feet should suffice.
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Location: CO : Calling all Colorado Ice Cl...
By: Tony T. When: Nov 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with S.Price. There is plenty of a ice in CO. Yeah, approaches are taxing, but it's part of the game. While it would be neat to have a farmed ice park (e.g. Ouray) near the Front Range, a climbing-gym-esque ice wall would be a little less than ideal.
If you could figure out a way to divert a natural water source and farm ice, I would wholeheartedly support you!
Good luck though. I'm sure you'll find support.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.9+)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic climb! I seconded up the variation on the Super Start (10a), and we inadvertently climbed the second pitch of Hair City from the anchors above the second pitch of the West Buttress.
If you want a sustained 5.9 climb the whole way up, I highly recommend the second pitch of Hair City instead of the rest of West Buttress for a hair-raising, exposed, but extremely enjoyable and safe roof!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mount Neva : Direct East Face (5.7 Easy Snow)
By: Tony T. When: Jul 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have any sort of condition report on this route? My climbing partner and I are planning an ascent on Tuesday, 7/26. Also, any idea on the mileage for the approach? About 3?
Thanks!
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Location: CO : Climbing on TV! First Asce...
By: Tony T. When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those of us who missed it, but still have cable, where the heck is there any info about the show on Travel Channel's website?!
I'm finding squat, and I'm fully capable of using the search feature. I've also tried finding it in my Comcast guide search, but nothing!
Any advice? =(
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : The Nose (5.6)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a fantastic climb! I'm an aspiring trad leader, and this was perfect. The third pitch was either really run out, or I was off route. Regardless, it was very easy 5th class.
A few things to note.
It is a south facing wall, so expect sun all day.
Also, the route is rather tricky to find, but basically the climber's trail that takes you to the base of the wall, takes you to a pretty big dihedral of sorts. Go far right from this. If you hike too far up, you actually end up in a grov... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden
By: Tony T. When: Jul 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Heads up.
There is a copious amount of poison ivy all along the Mesa Trail, and the climbers' approach trail to the Maiden. I mean seriously, there is A LOT of it.
Be careful out there!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Photo
By: Tony T. When: Jul 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well said, Lee.
I think the original intent was that if the anchor looks like the one in the picture, consider using a bail biner to rap off. That is pretty scary worn, and I would hesitate even rapping off that.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: Tony T. When: Jul 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can anyone tell me with certainty whether it's officially open or not?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
By: Tony T. When: Apr 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know if the ice is still in up at Lincoln Falls? I would have to imagine so, but I haven't seen an update since early March, so I was just curious.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Recon (5.6)
By: Tony T. When: Mar 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why does the new guidebook by Steve Levin seem to negate everything posted on here about Recon?
He gives it three stars, and lists it as six pitches.
Any ideas?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Moraine Park/Fern Lake Trai...
By: Tony T. When: Feb 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have any better description on how to get to this climb? Me and a friend hiked almost two miles in from the Fern Lake Trailhead and we couldn't find it for the life of us. There was quite a bit of deep snow, but any beta on where the climb actually is?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Tony T. When: Jan 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was able to climb this today, in January! I love living in Colorado!
Turned out to be an amazing day of 50ish degree sunshine.
We used a 70 meter rope and it was too short. However, it was sufficient enough to get us to comfortable downclimbing spot.
Also, when you set up anchors at the top, you can place a few directional draws on the way down for the 5.11b next to it! Great fun.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Poker Face (5.9)
By: Tony T. When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like Pony Up, this route has a rather tricky first bolt. Be careful getting to it, as it's essentially a pretty pumpy boulder problem.. There is a left traverse and a right traverse to the first bolt. Follow the chalk. The right is a bit harder than the left. After that it's easier, but not super easy. I wouldn't say it's a 7, but an easier 8, but it's relative I suppose. I guess it's a 7, but a less "quality" 7, and so it makes the route harder because it's not as intuitive as a "better"... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb! It's nicely shaded. Also, it's a very popular section of the crag, but 5pm on a Saturday and everyone was gone.
The first bolt is a mother to get to. I actually set a 0.5 Camalot in the crack before I got to the first bolt, just in case.
After that, it's a blast. You can trad climb this route, or you can learn how to trad climb on this route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! I took the biggest and highest whipper on this route about a week ago. I took it on the third pitch getting out of the dihedral.
Two things...verbal communication is almost impossible on the third pitch. Bring a two-way radio or a loud person.
Second, today it was about 92F, and the rock was burning hot to the touch. We had to abandon our revisit to the route. After about 4pm the shade finally hit it and it cooled off.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : The Put In (5.8)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a fun route, but it's a tad run-out, and a bit harder than a 5.7.
It's a great route for shade in the summer. The sun starts to hit it again around 4pm.
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