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Member Since: May 29, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Tony Brengosz

Point Rank: # 312
Total Points: 2,028
Last Year: 316
Last 30 Days: 0
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tony Brengosz been climbing?










Contributions


All 1906 | Routes 119 | Areas 24 | Photos 70 | Page Improvements | Comments 128 | Posts 6 | Stars 879 | Ratings 680
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Dec 30, 2015

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Comments: You mentioned that one reason it shouldn't get anchors is that it's already a popular route without them. I wasn't arguing that a route that's popular should be changed only because it is popular, I was just trying to point out that from my perspective, with all other things being equal, a route that gets climbed 100 times in a year should be considered for an anchor before a route that gets climbed once a year. But like you said, popularity isn't the only factor, and honestly, with 20 ticks(ob... more >>


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Dec 29, 2015

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Comments: That's assuming that everyone who climbs a route values it for the same reasons. Where you might enjoy the fact that when you get to the top there's nothing up there, others probably don't care much and would rather just clip a few draws and come down.

And yes, I think that most climbers probably would like bolted anchors everywhere. I don't personally think that, but having bolted anchors for single pitch cragging, even with easy top access, doesn't really seem that outrageous to me.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.9+)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Dec 26, 2015

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Comments: This looks like it would make a good sport climb.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Dec 26, 2015

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Comments: Isn't the "this route is already popular without anchors" argument backwards? It seems like the more popular a route, the more it should be considered for bolted anchors.

I agree that not every route everywhere needs to have anchors, but like Andy says, two camo'd rap rings won't take anything away from the area, and ultimately would be appreciated by most people climbing the route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Upper Boulder Field : ... : Glass Sloper (V5)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Nov 21, 2015

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Comments: Not sure who climbed this first or if they named it, so I gave it a name. If you know the FA or the name let me know and I'll update it.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Clint Eastwood Wall : Cimmaron (5.11a)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: Cool route, but can't help thinking that it'd be better without the 20 feet of slabby 5.5 climbing that only serves to wear out your rope.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Jenny Lake Bouldering : Red Cross Rock
By: Tony Brengosz When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: To get to Red Cross Rock, walk past the Jenny Lake ranger station along a gravel path. When you reach the campground, connect with the paved bike path(labelled "old road" on the hand drawn topo), and continue north for a couple hundred yards. Cutfinger Rock will be the first large boulder on the left side, just off the bike trail. Continue on the bike path another 50 yards beyond Cutfinger, and you will arrive at Red Cross, similarly situated just off the path to the left.

Here is John Gill's ... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Jenny Lake Bouldering : Cutfinger Rock
By: Tony Brengosz When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: To get to Cutfinger Rock, walk past the Jenny Lake ranger station along a gravel path. When you reach the campground, connect with the paved bike path(labelled "old road" on the hand drawn topo), and continue north for a couple hundred yards. Cutfinger will be the first large boulder on the left side, just off the bike trail.

Perhaps John Gill can best describe the boulder...

From Gill's website:

'In the beginning there was nothing... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Photo
By: Tony Brengosz When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: What is the name of the formation to the West of Steinfell's/Jackson's Thumb, with the white streaks and the sun on it?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : The Hill
By: Tony Brengosz When: Apr 18, 2015

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Comments: Because this area would get super confusing if we listed individual boulders, I've tried to set it up into different zones as in the Black Bible. Please take that into consideration when adding new areas/boulders, and if any of my info is wrong or unclear let me know so that I can change it.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Boy Size (Provo Area) : The Fit (V7)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: I could see this being v7 if you do it the way the guidebook describes, (deadpointing from the start to the lip) but there is a good right hand side pull that makes this problem much easier. The top out is easy, but scary due to terrible rock quality.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Lower Boulder Field : ... : Photo
By: Tony Brengosz When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: This is probably the best climbing picture in the boulder field I've seen.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Lower Boulder Field : ... : Disorder (V1)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: This is actually the description for Transmission. Disorder starts more to the left on the big right facing jug, and climbs straight over the roof on crimps. It goes at about v2. This route can also be sorted in between Transmission and the Traverse.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Lower Boulder Field : ... : unknown (V2-3)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: This is basically a sit start to the end of the HR Traverse. Starts Left on a crimp, Right on a good side pull block, and climbs up and right a few moves onto the face. About as worth while as anything else on Hidden.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : White Pine Boulders : ... : Blunder (V3-)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Not many moves, but they're fun, and the varnished(?) face and pocket crimp are pretty cool.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : White Pine Boulders : ... : Prowler (V7)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: The moves on this aren't especially difficult (probably V5-6), but you earn the extra points for the height. The top out isn't too hard, but it sure isn't a gimme. Classic highball.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : White Pine Boulders : ... : Mom (V1 PG13)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Just for a bit of clarification, this is the highball line that goes straight up the middle of the face through some pockets and sidepulls. There is some flakey rock, though all the holds, and feet seemed solid.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Propulsion (5.12c)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route that is surprisingly continuous after the third bolt. Don't worry about the band of bad rock at the bottom, the quality isn't that bad and will clean up eventually. Half way up though is a big time bomb block that will come out sooner or later (sooner). Unfortunately the block is a perfect undercling pinch with an awesome thumb catch that is super fun to climb on. It looks like the route should still go at about the same grade after the block blows. The top finishes with some t... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Lower Boulder Field : ... : Slick 50 (V8)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: For what it's worth, here is the description from the Black Bible guidebook:

"Start on two undercling edges. Punch to the blocky arete. Pull over onto the slab. Finish on the North face if you are looking for an exciting ending.

Variation 1: Slick 50 Direct V9. Start the same as the original line. Instead of pulling onto the slab, follow the arete and top out at the peak of the arete on the sloper. The jug along the lip is off.

Variation 2: V8. Climb variation 1 with the jug along the... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Gate Boulders
By: Tony Brengosz When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: Little video of some of the classics at the Gate





Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : 5 Mile Boulders : Kung Fu (V6)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Like Nat says, I've always understood Kung Fu to avoid the arete entirely after the first move, which to me makes the most sense.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : 5 Mile Boulders : Kung Fu (V6)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: How far left is "quite a bit"? I topped out on the good crimps on the lip that are directly above the crimp rail on the face. That is also where I topped out Baldy though, so I guess I did Baldy wrong? Fun problem though, and definitely harder than Baldy.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : CG Project (5.13)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Super fun route! Cruiser climbing to the 4th bolt, then increasingly difficult moves through a seam until a somewhat awkward toss to a sidepull, and a few tenuous but easier moves to the chains. Seems like it's maybe a little bit harder than Tiny Giant on the Gangsta Ledge, but probably still 13a. Next time I see Chris I'll find out if he sent it, and what the name is.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : Gangsta' Ledge
By: Tony Brengosz When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Brand new rope on the approach/descent from the ledge


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Secrets of Fatima (5.10c)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: The first pitch has the worst stone of all the routes we climbed at Prophesy, but the second pitch is stellar.


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