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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,498
Last Year: 1,011
Last 30 Days: 30
452 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 16026 | Routes 1312 | Areas 127 | Photos 1526 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1839 | Posts 5051 | Stars 3845 | Ratings 2324
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: PSA: THE BOULDERADO is CLOSED FRIDAY (and Hwy CO 119).
The Boulderado climbing area will be closed by CDOT from 6:00 am until noon on Friday, June 5 for removal of a loose block, and the highway will be closed during some of that time. Thanks to CDOT for taking care of the dangerous block!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Cracked Lens (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: The plant-filled crack variation would go on gear if cleaned of the (hardly endangered) grass in it. Could probably do it on rap.

There is an anchor on the large tree above that presently consists of a chewed up faded bit of 9/16" webbing that I wouldn't dream of a rap from and a 5mm acc cord that looks just fine. A single 1760# SWL Mallion goes through both.

It would be good to cut the crappy tat and replace it with something nicer as a second piece.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Air Apparent (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: The thin flake on P2 protects well in blue/green Aliens or equiv. Take a few of each.

As well, the belay atop P1 is on 2-3" cams, so take a few of those BEYOND that needed to protect P1 or the belay is going to be a tough one. Not much alternative there.

I'd give it more stars were it longer.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Alone on Memorial Day on this climb. Can link raps w/twin 70's for a very short descent...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : Could'nt be Schmooter (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Maybe a difficult lead for beginning trads due to gear on the bottom half. Great route though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Grape Nuts (5.10c PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Mostly mellow, but one very very thin move just below the small roof is a crux. Great rock means you stick to it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Sensuous Mortician (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Protection was never further than 15' apart. It did require patience, an eye, and creativity. This can be protected JUST FINE by a crafty and experienced leader, but is not for the beginning trad climber.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Sand Felipe (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Would have been better with fewer bolts, but it is still quite good.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Skipping the 4th pitch would be a darn shame. It's as good as anything else!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Perhaps over graded if you are accustomed to Indian Creek Corners already. Hard part is #3 camalots. Top part is wide but not so hard. Don't let the grade intimidate you. The climb is worth the try.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Have a Beer with Fear (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Sequential, but felt 11a. Holds are pretty good. Caustic felt harder, but of similar quality.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Elbows of Mac and Ronnie (5.11a/b)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Bad crux hold and not an obvious hold to go to from there... felt more like 11c, at least. Would be way harder for short folks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Fixed #3 camalot is in a fairly bad place up high - right where you'd jam or protect. As a result the climb has fewer options and may feel more hand-size dependent. If someone can take up a cable saw or something else to clean that crap out it would be a community service.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Quartz Dancer (5.11b/c)
By: Tony B When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Nice. That crag is on my hit list, so I was curious if I should take up a brush or anything. Sounds like I should.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Quartz Dancer (5.11b/c)
By: Tony B When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Looks like an interesting route. How much work/cleaning does the "crumbling dihedral" need and how much will it change/help that situation? Any particular thing you can think of that should be taken up for a subsequent ascent?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Weevil's Walk (5.10c PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: Climbing to access the first fixed pin (which is terrible) is 5.8, PG-13. The beginning of the crack is 5.10- then predominantly 5.9 for a bit.

If the splitter crack were the length of a full pitch, there would be a line to wait in to get on this climb but the best quality is for about 20-25'. The second pitch is easily adjoined for 125' total as a single pitch. Take large stoppers and double down on hand-sized gear.

Also - the best approach is via Jimmy G. (5.9+, fingers and hands - strenuous... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Unknown Left - AKA: Toilet... (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: It is the wrong route, no doubt...
The question is who edited it to put the AKA: in there and make this the wrong route?!?!
I just described what I described and called it an unknown.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose
By: Tony B When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: Agreed. I'd think it most appropriate to edit this page without completely changing the expressed opinions. I think appropriate amendment is in order though. The Admins are welcome to referee that. I'm not terribly invested in it one way or the other, other that to insure that a reader is informed that there are still some older, particularly loose/dangerous/low quality climbs up there and not to get onto any given climb expecting that they are all good.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Short But Sweet (5.8 R)
By: Tony B When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: "About as little fun you can possibly have climbing without getting hurt."


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Hare Balls (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: To the above I answer:
Absolutely there is a reason.
Because it has been lead on trad alone for decades.
One does not just go adding bolts to climbs that have been done trad.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ A.C.E and B.C.C proudly fund bolt replacement in the area. You can find and donate to either on the net or on Facebook.
(Action Committee for Eldorado and Boulder Climbing Community)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Kraft Crags : The Last Calico (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: So what is the story on the 5.8(?) variation that stays left and stops after 20 meters at an anchor?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : The Untitled (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Sustained very thin holds. Make sure your tips are hardened and your toes well rested.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Autumn (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Mar 20, 2015

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Comments: In the old Hackworth books, this was 5.8 and Rock Wars was 5.9.
Perhaps the grading is reflective of people's reluctance to upgrade by too much, or perhaps you just had a hard time on it. It is a pretty physical climb, and perceptions of grades are somewhat intangible.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : The Radlands of Infinity (5.12d)
By: Tony B When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Jason,
We (OK, more specifically *I*) broke some holds off when we were on it in 2010.


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