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Rock Climbing Photo: Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,115
Last Year: 855
Last 30 Days: 43
430 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 15690 | Routes 1295 | Areas 126 | Photos 1495 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1794 | Posts 4944 | Stars 3767 | Ratings 2267
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : The Untitled (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Sustained very thin holds. Make sure your tips are hardened and your toes well rested.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Autumn (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: Mar 20, 2015

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Comments: In the old Hackworth books, this was 5.8 and Rock Wars was 5.9.
Perhaps the grading is reflective of people's reluctance to upgrade by too much, or perhaps you just had a hard time on it. It is a pretty physical climb, and perceptions of grades are somewhat intangible.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : The Radlands of Infinity (5.12d)
By: Tony B When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Jason,
We (OK, more specifically *I*) broke some holds off when we were on it in 2010.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Downclimb/Sentinel Pass : West Face/Downclimb aka Wes... (5.4)
By: Tony B When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: AKA: West Chimney.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Dead Crow (5.11+ PG13) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: We'll have to talk with Mr Sunset about all that 'added' red.
It is a scanned slide, undoctored.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Last Laugh (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Prod,
Essentially, yes. The second crux is right above the 2 bolts. I believe that someone added one because the first was sketchy, but didn't finish the job. Or maybe they intentionally wanted a bail point between the thinner crux (scarier).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Seein' Double (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: Direct at 2nd to last bolt is balancy but not 5.12, or at least not hard 5.12 if you have a good wingspan.
I still don't like the idea that this got bolted. It was always a nice TR, now it's a squeeze job with bolts clip-able from previously existing routes.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Second Coming (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: Funny that. I wrote the description, and the consensus pretty much falls in line with what I wrote. I said 3*'s and 12a, and so did about 1/2 of all other opinions. (34 of the 71 reviewers) Some comments mention some detractors, some don't. I guess not all people (Rolofson) are inclined to believe that their opinion isn't really worth anything more than mine. Especially when they are also not locals.
I suppose, I conclude that: 'Mark Rolofson uses the route comment forum to take personal i... more >>


Location: Asia : Malaysia : Batu Caves
By: Tony B When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Nate, thanks for the contribution - the hotel sounds like a great find.
One correction to add to your commentary though:
"Because the sun is on the walls (except for Damai) until noon"

Part of the year, yes. But being below the trips, as you know, means that the sun comes from the NORTH for what we'd call Summer.

Also - Nanyang Wall is at least as good as Nyamuk. Check it out next time!


Location: CO : Boulder
By: Tony B When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: I was trad climbing before work at sunrise this AM. That's less usual (32 deg, but sunny, and the rock was warm) but still possible much of the time.
Barring a freak storm, April is prone climbing weather at the lower altitude crags.
RMNP peak crags will be wet or snow-locked. Eldo will be good, Table will be good, much of the South Platte will be good in some areas (facing South). Bocan will be a crap-shoot depending on rain/snow/temps that set of days on the higher crags, but HIGHLY LIKELY ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Skip 'n' Go Naked (5.8 R)
By: Tony B When: Feb 11, 2015

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Comments: Funny thing was, Eric, we saw it too, but Joseffa and I don't own or use chalk.
So, there was a 3rd party around in the recent past.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : W (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: One of the few routes I've ever looked at and said "that's just too bushy for me."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Skip 'n' Go Naked (5.8 R)
By: Tony B When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Funny, I'd just go to add this thing, and there it is, added moments ago.

Yeah - R/X. X for the fact that it is not protected at all, R maybe because it is only 40' tall? I say X for an inevitable groundfall. Good climb, though.

I see mention that there is now a webbing anchor on the tree at the top for those who wish to TR it. Apparently the submitting party did it right after us. It is a single 9/16" strand. Back it up with a sling if you feel that is inadequate.

An unmentioned downclimb tr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : The Slide (5.0 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: 4th class until one move at the top. Perhaps this is the better downclimb than the designated corner, which is blocky and dirty.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: Actually, She was wearing long pants - you can bruise through pants.
The funniest thing was years later she tells me:
"I was looking at pics on MP and I saw this one of some really bruised up legs and I thought, 'Oh Gross' and then I realized that it was me."


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: It is the angle of the light. This photo: mountainproject.com/v/10785378... reveals what that is and why the image is distorted.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Positively Fourth Street (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: Maybe easy 5.9. 5.9+ only if you completely refuse to use the crack (i.e. finger injury).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : X (5.9+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ Airmail has always been a sandbag. I think this deserves 5.10.
This is true, at least, if following the arete the whole way and always within an arm's reach of it or holding it.
Best way to do it is probably as a single pitch from the ground on Coniferous Types and continuing... always right of the arete, always within reach.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Android Tilt (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: This climb has cleaned up quite a bit in the last decade. It is still a little thin in places unless you take very small cams (i.e. black Alien/red Camalot Jr.).
I'd give it 1-2*s on lead, 3*s to follow. We did it today in front of a bit of a crowd and seemed to generate a lot of interest in it, and that is a good thing. This climb deserves more traffic than it gets.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - East Face : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: I'll be darned - I was looking at the upper right rocks atthe base, but sure enough, the ones on the left are clear and the ones on the right were a matter of viewing angle. Thanks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : S&M (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Dec 20, 2014

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Comments: Add a star by starting on As We Liked It.
Add an R and climb better rock, but add an R rating by climbing the face to the left instead of the dirty corner.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Straw Turkey (5.10a) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Shhhh.. you'll distract him.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: If anyone finds the protection (or prospects thereof) to be sparse, a solid #3 Camalot goes in 1/2 way up to the 1st bolt, a green or yellow Alien 1/2 way to the pins after the 2nd bolt. The route is thus G-rated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Super Woo (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: Back again today to find the proper start - bad rock and poor protection are there behind the tree where that route is supposed to start. It is better a bit off to the right in full sunshine anyway.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Last Flatironette : East Face (5.0)
By: Tony B When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: This route starts like the picture would imply, but once past the trees is a great route on great rock.


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