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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,389
Last Year: 942
Last 30 Days: 51
449 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 15881 | Routes 1307 | Areas 126 | Photos 1523 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1808 | Posts 5048 | Stars 3790 | Ratings 2277
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Sensuous Mortician (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Protection was never further than 15' apart. It did require patience, an eye, and creativity. This can be protected JUST FINE by a crafty and experienced leader, but is not for the beginning trad climber.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Sand Felipe (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Would have been better with fewer bolts, but it is still quite good.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Skipping the 4th pitch would be a darn shame. It's as good as anything else!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Perhaps over graded if you are accustomed to Indian Creek Corners already. Hard part is #3 camalots. Top part is wide but not so hard. Don't let the grade intimidate you. The climb is worth the try.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Have a Beer with Fear (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Sequential, but felt 11a. Holds are pretty good. Caustic felt harder, but of similar quality.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Elbows of Mac and Ronnie (5.11a/b)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Bad crux hold and not an obvious hold to go to from there... felt more like 11c, at least. Would be way harder for short folks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Fixed #3 camalot is in a fairly bad place up high - right where you'd jam or protect. As a result the climb has fewer options and may feel more hand-size dependent. If someone can take up a cable saw or something else to clean that crap out it would be a community service.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Quartz Dancer (5.11b/c)
By: Tony B When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Nice. That crag is on my hit list, so I was curious if I should take up a brush or anything. Sounds like I should.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Quartz Dancer (5.11b/c)
By: Tony B When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Looks like an interesting route. How much work/cleaning does the "crumbling dihedral" need and how much will it change/help that situation? Any particular thing you can think of that should be taken up for a subsequent ascent?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Weevil's Walk (5.10c PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: Climbing to access the first fixed pin (which is terrible) is 5.8, PG-13. The beginning of the crack is 5.10- then predominantly 5.9 for a bit.

If the splitter crack were the length of a full pitch, there would be a line to wait in to get on this climb but the best quality is for about 20-25'. The second pitch is easily adjoined for 125' total as a single pitch. Take large stoppers and double down on hand-sized gear.

Also - the best approach is via Jimmy G. (5.9+, fingers and hands - strenuous... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Unknown Left - AKA: Toilet... (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: It is the wrong route, no doubt...
The question is who edited it to put the AKA: in there and make this the wrong route?!?!
I just described what I described and called it an unknown.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose
By: Tony B When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: Agreed. I'd think it most appropriate to edit this page without completely changing the expressed opinions. I think appropriate amendment is in order though. The Admins are welcome to referee that. I'm not terribly invested in it one way or the other, other that to insure that a reader is informed that there are still some older, particularly loose/dangerous/low quality climbs up there and not to get onto any given climb expecting that they are all good.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Short But Sweet (5.8 R)
By: Tony B When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: "About as little fun you can possibly have climbing without getting hurt."


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Hare Balls (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: To the above I answer:
Absolutely there is a reason.
Because it has been lead on trad alone for decades.
One does not just go adding bolts to climbs that have been done trad.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ A.C.E and B.C.C proudly fund bolt replacement in the area. You can find and donate to either on the net or on Facebook.
(Action Committee for Eldorado and Boulder Climbing Community)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Kraft Crags : The Last Calico (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: So what is the story on the 5.8(?) variation that stays left and stops after 20 meters at an anchor?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : The Untitled (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Sustained very thin holds. Make sure your tips are hardened and your toes well rested.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Autumn (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Mar 20, 2015

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Comments: In the old Hackworth books, this was 5.8 and Rock Wars was 5.9.
Perhaps the grading is reflective of people's reluctance to upgrade by too much, or perhaps you just had a hard time on it. It is a pretty physical climb, and perceptions of grades are somewhat intangible.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : The Radlands of Infinity (5.12d)
By: Tony B When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Jason,
We (OK, more specifically *I*) broke some holds off when we were on it in 2010.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Downclimb/Sentinel Pass : West Face/Downclimb aka Wes... (5.4)
By: Tony B When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: AKA: West Chimney.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Dead Crow (5.11+ PG13) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: We'll have to talk with Mr Sunset about all that 'added' red.
It is a scanned slide, undoctored.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Last Laugh (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Prod,
Essentially, yes. The second crux is right above the 2 bolts. I believe that someone added one because the first was sketchy, but didn't finish the job. Or maybe they intentionally wanted a bail point between the thinner crux (scarier).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Seein' Double (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: Direct at 2nd to last bolt is balancy but not 5.12, or at least not hard 5.12 if you have a good wingspan.
I still don't like the idea that this got bolted. It was always a nice TR, now it's a squeeze job with bolts clip-able from previously existing routes.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Second Coming (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: Funny that. I wrote the description, and the consensus pretty much falls in line with what I wrote. I said 3*'s and 12a, and so did about 1/2 of all other opinions. (34 of the 71 reviewers) Some comments mention some detractors, some don't. I guess not all people (Rolofson) are inclined to believe that their opinion isn't really worth anything more than mine. Especially when they are also not locals.
I suppose, I conclude that: 'Mark Rolofson uses the route comment forum to take personal i... more >>


Location: Asia : Malaysia : Batu Caves
By: Tony B When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Nate, thanks for the contribution - the hotel sounds like a great find.
One correction to add to your commentary though:
"Because the sun is on the walls (except for Damai) until noon"

Part of the year, yes. But being below the trips, as you know, means that the sun comes from the NORTH for what we'd call Summer.

Also - Nanyang Wall is at least as good as Nyamuk. Check it out next time!


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