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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Tony B
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Total Points: 24,576
Last Year: 910
Last 30 Days: 61
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 16137 | Routes 1316 | Areas 127 | Photos 1529 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1860 | Posts 5073 | Stars 3878 | Ratings 2352
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: 'Sword of Damocles' climbs up the shallow corners formed by the giant vertical blade of rock 3 meters to the right of the climber in this photo.
It is approached directly from the base of the crack, below and to the right of the bottom of this photo, behind a few small pines.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: This photo is P3 of Wind Tunnel, not P2 of Rhombohedral, which is further right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Rhombohedral (5.8+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Tunneling through the back side of the P3 chimney down low is another way to do this, but it is a very tight squeeze. Best of luck to the big guys on that!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Cruisin' for Burgers (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: The nut to place at the crux (2 of them, actually) are solid and not hard to place. Good thing. This climb was slick 20 years ago, and that foot gets more and more polished!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Baby Sitter (5.9 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Maybe R not PG-13, because the crux is getting up there, you could fall before you get gear, and if you do fall, the landing is bad.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Mohling Arete (5.5 R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: From the last ridge, you can descend East and then just South of the Hippo Head and go south of that but around the top/back of all of the Skunk Canyon Ridges. This is much better once the ferns are down than trying to get back down behind R3 or R4 and then fighting the washed out canyon, which holds snow besides. You hit the Mesa trail in short order, really.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Wounded Knee (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: The roof is pretty physical. Be ready to go for it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Night Stalker (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: To address the description and the first comment here:
A #4 cam would indeed have been helpful at the crux, which is awkward. Can step out right at crux into 2nd crack and back in to make the climb easier.
Multiple #4s? You could place them, but you hardly need them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Pool Skimmer (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: I am one opinion in many, but my partner did happen to agree.
I think with the very extensive mileage I get on routes at that grade (sometimes over 1000' in a day at that grade) I am attuned to it, but if consensus says otherwise, I'll be proven wrong.
Regardless, by that logic, aren't you too strong to rate this as well?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : A Hike for Y2K (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Did it again this past weekend and found it easier climbing slightly left of the bolts and not clipping #5 until I was up to it, not below the bulge. It all comes down to trusting what look like very bad feet.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Olympic Swimmer (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Seems like 5.5 or 5.6 to me. The variation to the left makes it 5.7-, perhaps.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Pool Skimmer (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Seriously over-graded. 5.7 for one move at the bottom and one move near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : A Hike With Ludwig Dude (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Furthermore, there is also a bomb-proof #1 Camalot placement (or I presume #2.5 Friend, but maybe a #2) in a small, horizontal "pocket" toward the top if you can find that exact spot. Since the climbing is slightly nebulous, you may or may not find this. I did, but my partner at first did not until taking a second lap on the climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: That's pretty nutty. You won't see me threading something like that, let alone hanging on it. Pulling it will put an odd vibrating load on that pin that could leave it suspect/loose for the next party even if it holds you.

In short: "Keep it up, and yer' gonna die."


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : The Sacred Cliffs : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: Boulder County Open Space Calendar....
Front Cover for 2016. There you have it!
Rock Climbing Photo: County Open Space 2016 calendar.
County Open Space 2016 calendar.



Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : No Place Like Home (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: TR Hero, to answer your question:
If you can reach the bolts, you are on route.
And it is not unusual for a route to be height or arm-length dependent.
Nice work on climbing it, was it fun?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Medusa
By: Tony B When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: This crag is indeed signed for raptor closures now, from Feb. 1-Aug. 1.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Stepping Stones (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: If you try to force P1 too directly, being in a bulge just below the most obvious section of dihedral, the climbing in certainly R-rated and probably 5.10 or so. The route dodges about a bit.

I can't image in 5.8 leader being psyched on this route, BTW, but it is good for more advanced climbers.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : The Sacred Cliffs : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Steve,
Yeah, they grow in most higher altitude areas around here. You find them in the upper areas on the less sunny places. I also see them a lot up in the Park.

Datura is growing all over Potash Road, and nobody seems to have noticed, but I guess most people shouldn't F with that stuff anyway. ACh is not a neurotransmitter you want too many analogs of running around in your system. Not that GABA is a great idea, but it's less likely to stop your heart.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Spare Rib (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Not quite as good and clean as Crimson, but similar climbing in the same area.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Overload (5.9) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Could be. It was a scanned slide.
I guess my buddy wanted to do it Right Side in for once.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Lightning Bolt Arete (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Pin is getting old, and if it blows, you are screwed. You can place a blue or green Alien right above it, but you kind of need that hold for fingers.... Damned if you do, damned if you don't.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Iron Cross (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Pretty tough at the grade in the book (11a) and on pretty poor footholds. Frankly, I thought Lightning Bolt Arete (11b) was both easier and better. Wear your stiffer edging shoes, and DO NOT do this route in the heat. Also, take a little chalk.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Frequency Modulation (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: This route is already covered on this site and has been for 15 years right here:
mountainproject.com/v/fm/10575...
Perhaps merge this entry as a comment.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Mark Roth.
Report bad bolts here:
boulderclimbers.org/what-does-...
and they will get replaced by one of our volunteers.

Support the BCC when you can. Although we do provide volunteers with only top-quality hardware (Climbtech 316-series stainless steel), the bolts are not free!


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