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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Tony B
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Total Points: 24,516
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Last 30 Days: 18
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 16075 | Routes 1313 | Areas 127 | Photos 1526 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1845 | Posts 5067 | Stars 3858 | Ratings 2337
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : No Place Like Home (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: TR Hero, to answer your question:
If you can reach the bolts, you are on route.
And it is not unusual for a route to be height or arm-length dependent.
Nice work on climbing it, was it fun?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Medusa
By: Tony B When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: This crag is indeed signed for raptor closures now, from Feb. 1-Aug. 1.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Stepping Stones (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: If you try to force P1 too directly, being in a bulge just below the most obvious section of dihedral, the climbing in certainly R-rated and probably 5.10 or so. The route dodges about a bit.

I can't image in 5.8 leader being psyched on this route, BTW, but it is good for more advanced climbers.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : The Sacred Cliffs : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Steve,
Yeah, they grow in most higher altitude areas around here. You find them in the upper areas on the less sunny places. I also see them a lot up in the Park.

Datura is growing all over Potash Road, and nobody seems to have noticed, but I guess most people shouldn't F with that stuff anyway. ACh is not a neurotransmitter you want too many analogs of running around in your system. Not that GABA is a great idea, but it's less likely to stop your heart.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Spare Rib (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Not quite as good and clean as Crimson, but similar climbing in the same area.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Overload (5.9) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Could be. It was a scanned slide.
I guess my buddy wanted to do it Right Side in for once.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Lightning Bolt Arete (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Pin is getting old, and if it blows, you are screwed. You can place a blue or green Alien right above it, but you kind of need that hold for fingers.... Damned if you do, damned if you don't.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Iron Cross (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Pretty tough at the grade in the book (11a) and on pretty poor footholds. Frankly, I thought Lightning Bolt Arete (11b) was both easier and better. Wear your stiffer edging shoes, and DO NOT do this route in the heat. Also, take a little chalk.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Frequency Modulation (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: This route is already covered on this site and has been for 15 years right here:
mountainproject.com/v/fm/10575...
Perhaps merge this entry as a comment.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Mark Roth.
Report bad bolts here:
boulderclimbers.org/what-does-...
and they will get replaced by one of our volunteers.

Support the BCC when you can. Although we do provide volunteers with only top-quality hardware (Climbtech 316-series stainless steel), the bolts are not free!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Charlie Horse Needle : Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Good tower for a hot day. All shaded on this route.
The anchors on the top of the "P4" pitch are terrible.
If you rap off of these you will end up with PTSD.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Dunn Route (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Great route if Primrose is to hot/sunny.
In that final tunnel-through, go low or high, one or the other.
Walking straight back on the obvious foot ledge just got me stuck...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Arena (aka Contender Wa... : First Round (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Red Camalot placement is obvious and solid but hardly needed. The climbing at that point is on good holds, and the distance between the bolts is not very big.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Arena (aka Contender Wa... : Standing Eight Count (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Better be 5'10" or taller to keep it at the grade near the top. The long reach right could turn into a dyno for shorter folks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: I think that the comment referred more to the clip with lack of nylon than to the fact that all are clipped. The lack of a draw might actually increase the risk of rope damage and/or ripping a bolt. Probably not a huge difference though.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Turkey Foot Crack (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: P1 anchor at 120' could probably use some fresh cord/webbing as of 9/2015. We cut away 3 strands that were reduced to fuzz or torn/chewwed over 1/2 way through, then checked the rest, which is aging. Didn't have a piece long enough to go around the rock with us, however.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Astro Turkey (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: PLEASE NOTE: the tree you can sling has pried the flake of granite that holds it in a good way off of the wall. I'd think twice about putting a sling on this. If you fall and take out the tree and that flake, you or your belayer could be in serious peril.
There is a so-so stopper just left, then an excellent 2-2.5" cam (red or green Camalot) just a few moves higher that would be so much safer....


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Astro Turkey (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Pi Anchor webbing freshly refurbished 9/15. Cut away a ton of junk so littered you couldn't clip the bolts! Now a clean single anchor (but knotted/independent/redundant) that will need a second or replacement line in the future.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Standard Route (5.11- R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: The hard part of the 5.11 path for P2/P3 (second pitch, but off of the 3rd anchor) isn't really R-rated. It is hard, but you have safe gear when the climbing is tough.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Peter Principle (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Reasonably recent, as I had never noticed it before. I flagged it as inappropriate due to the language and bigotry in it (not directed at me, but who cares?) One of the oritional replies (what would have been the first) was also pretty gruff, and apparently that has also been removed.
I am indifferent to the grading +/- one letter. There is no ire in that. It's a stat. I think you misunderstand the point I was trying to make. Consensus rules for sure and the point I was trying to get to was ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Peter Principle (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Sure - that's the point of consensus.
One of the comments I originally was responding to was removed due to the bigoted language in it that most adults have outgrown, so I suppose it makes my reply look strange.
I suppose my off-handed comment in the description (that the locals told me that the prior book rated it 10 not 11a) could be taken as a serious discussion, for me it was just a "well, looks like opinions differ" addition to the description. I'm just surprised that any disagreement by... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: Tony B When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ Yeah, I did both routes (IM and MM) there pretty much back to back, and there is a huge difference between them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Fin (5.10 R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: You can place multiple green Aliens l on the arete (so-so) and a yellow Alien or possibly a blue deep behind a flake right of the arete + an #4 or #5 BD stopper to protect the easier but runout upper half.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Curb Service (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: If you stay belly to the bolts and right of them, the 3rd bolt to the top is 5.11a or harder. 5.10a if you go left a little, except yeah, a bouldery start.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Electra Glide : Catch You Later (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Sep 2, 2015

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Comments: The flake has been cleaned. The remaining climb as left should be safe and protect-able. Have at it.
As well, the torn and mossy webbing anchor (which was crap) has been replaced with 2 bolts to the left that won't kill the tree and will serve as a top anchor for any of the routes there.


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