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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,389
Last Year: 942
Last 30 Days: 51
448 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 15881 | Routes 1307 | Areas 126 | Photos 1523 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1808 | Posts 5048 | Stars 3790 | Ratings 2277
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Invisible Touch (5.12-)
By: Tony B When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: That system was used in other areas and guides instead of letters, for as long as you and I have been climbing and longer. In fact, it predates the use of letters in grades, as you should know after 43 years.
I.e. 5.9-, 5.9, 5.9+. Or i.e. 12-, 12, 12+ instead of 12a,b,c,d....
It is less specific in that case, subdivided into 3 grades instead of 4.

On THIS SITE, 12- is between 12a and 12b, and 12+ is between 12c and 12d, more or less in line with how I use it. This site is what is relevant her... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Butt Luscious (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Richard,
Long time no see. I hope all is going well.

There is no point in changing what you wrote if that's your opinion and you own it and you're not beholden to anyone to change it. The consensus vote shows in the route a few lines down anyway. People can click "details" to see how that was arrived at.

Voices in disagreement are a valuable aspect of the data here. My ongoing discussion here has never been to attempt to get everyone on a single grade or page, it was to defend that the multipl... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Area : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: Linking this route through to Middle Earth is a great run, and much more consistent in grade and nature of the climbing than linking to Hobbit Book. I'd advocate for that option if you want to continue in the 5.10 range. The climbing on Middle Earth is still quite good, though admittedly less traveled.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Ms. Fanny Le Pump (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: VERY tough warm-up... crux right off of the ground and quite an A$$ kicker at that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Eat Right (5.10c PG13)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: By wandering back and forth quite a bit between the 3 cracks in all, one may be able to skip the cruxes of all of the lines and reduce the grade to a 5.9 or 5.9-. We referred to this as 'Eat It All.'


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Othello (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: A little research has revealed that though the last few BoCan books have misplaced 'Othello' in terms of where it lies, that this is it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : East Prow (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Yep, single large pieces are good enough, but sure, one #3 Camalot and one #4 Friend.
With a larger rack, you can do what we did and finish the whole thing in 4 long pitches with a 70m rope (and likely with a 60m) if you simul-climb the easy part on the 1st pitch. Casual 1/2 day.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Fractured Fairytales (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ " Would anyone be especially offended if we went ahead and retro-bolted a couple of bolts for an anchor up there?"

Wow. Excellent troll.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Join The Party (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: The large loose flakes have been removed. There is some dirt on the rock there now. It will take a few rains or a brush to clean it up, but you can climb around it just fine as well.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Ship's Prow : Scots on the Rocks (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Pretty good route. Although short, the (very) long approach and involved descent (The Loft) make doing this a pretty legit alpine day.
P1 is pretty mellow and is indeed a good 200' to the belay. I found the rock more solid going RIGHT after the hanging, pink flake and the grade more like 5.8, but it is well-protected.
P2 is probably 150' and not 180' and is sustained at a 5.8 or so grade but for 3 slightly harder moves.
P3 wanders a bit but use of slings can make this thing go smoothly. I had a... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Eternal Sunshine (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Heh.... Wait until you try a few of the mid 12s!!!
Mark told me that he "redpoint" graded these, meaning once you have the moves down, that is how it will feel.
Some similar discussion w/input from Mark and Richard appears here:
Touch Gold ratings


Location: Tony B : Climbing in J-Tree : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: I don't recall getting down being much an issue. Maybe I downclimbed the tree?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Out to Pasture aka Momentus... (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: I can see where it is a different climb if you want to stay completely away from the stinkin' piles of BS in the corner... but yeah, those are retrobolts and the climb is 5.10. For a 5.11, get on Momentum Operator, to the right.


Location: Tony B : Climbing Route Pictures Fro... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, I got junk in my eyes and was trying to blink it out when Peter snapped that shot. But the last 2 times I was up there I really cleaned it up on the holds. It is much better now than 10 years ago.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: As to the grade, 80-some people have enteres a grade and voted.
Survey says... 5.11+.
More say 11c or easier than suggest 5.12a or harder.

Obviously this is just one of those climbs that inspires debates.

As to the comment immediatly prior to this one: It is not a downgrade if you are right. It's an inflated grade that started it all. Defending that with any righteousness is a fools errand. It's one thing to share your opinion, it's another to criticize others' as invalid preening.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : T-Zero West Face aka Finger... (5.5)
By: Tony B When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: Yeah - looks like they should be merged. Apparently the names are not the same in all books (I used the Rossiter Book from the '90s), and the layout of the routes in any book is, at best, confusing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Unnamed (submitted as Doc's... (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: Lots of scrambling in between 2 sections that make that up. While not a total bomb, there are reasons why people bolted a lot around there but not this one.
I more or less lead/bouldered/soloed everything around there in 2001 and never thought it was worthy of mention or attention. This line does protect on a few small cams low down prior to bolt #1. Here is the question - isn't that about all the protection you need? If you can do that, the rest is a cake walk.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock
By: Tony B When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: So what is the 3-bolt variation up and left of the last Pitch of Empor? It goes up from the left-leaning corner, then up 5 meters of easy terrain to a 1st bolt, a more moderate moves to a second bolt, then up a few harder moves to a 3rd, hangerless bolt (swage on a stopper and rely on nerves and friction). Then up and right to an exit on harder still moves.
Maybe 5.11?
Anybody got a story on this thing?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Empor (5.7+) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: Actually, the small stoppers (#4 BD nut and small brass) on the bottom of this are BOMBER!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: PSA: THE BOULDERADO is CLOSED FRIDAY (and Hwy CO 119).
The Boulderado climbing area will be closed by CDOT from 6:00 am until noon on Friday, June 5 for removal of a loose block, and the highway will be closed during some of that time. Thanks to CDOT for taking care of the dangerous block!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Cracked Lens (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: The plant-filled crack variation would go on gear if cleaned of the (hardly endangered) grass in it. Could probably do it on rap.

There is an anchor on the large tree above that presently consists of a chewed up faded bit of 9/16" webbing that I wouldn't dream of a rap from and a 5mm acc cord that looks just fine. A single 1760# SWL Mallion goes through both.

It would be good to cut the crappy tat and replace it with something nicer as a second piece.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Air Apparent (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: The thin flake on P2 protects well in blue/green Aliens or equiv. Take a few of each.

As well, the belay atop P1 is on 2-3" cams, so take a few of those BEYOND that needed to protect P1 or the belay is going to be a tough one. Not much alternative there.

I'd give it more stars were it longer.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Alone on Memorial Day on this climb. Can link raps w/twin 70's for a very short descent...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : Could'nt be Schmooter (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Maybe a difficult lead for beginning trads due to gear on the bottom half. Great route though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Grape Nuts (5.10c PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Mostly mellow, but one very very thin move just below the small roof is a crux. Great rock means you stick to it.


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