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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,552
Last Year: 898
Last 30 Days: 51
457 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 16104 | Routes 1316 | Areas 127 | Photos 1526 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1851 | Posts 5068 | Stars 3870 | Ratings 2344
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock
By: Tony B When: Mar 24, 2016

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Comments: The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

Meanwhile, that being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down.

Also - the eagle tag on the first bolt of The Yo... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Evan's Overlook : Broke Dick (5.10- PG13)
By: Tony B When: Mar 9, 2016

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Comments: The poster completely sandbagged the grade here. This is 5.11 and Off-width.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Pegasus : The Golden Bridle (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: The route has been lead, cleaned and verified at the 5.8 grade. The large, loose flake at the crux was fairly easily removed. The rock is now mostly solid. This route is probably not a good solo. My second impression of it, following my partner today, was 'I soloed this in approach shoes? that was a bad idea.' But lead on gear, it is quite good.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Right to Life (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Some not-so-great gear, to say the least. Not something you'd send a newbie trad leader up on, by any means.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: This route is CLOSED because the golden eagle nest is directly on it.
Some things you might be interested in with respect to that is what can happen if you violate the closure. i.e.</em:

  • Ending up in Federal Court.
  • Paying a stiff fine.
  • Doing some time in the Big House.
  • Getting your climbing equipment confiscated.
  • Getting 'trespassed' in the National Forest so that you can't go back in it.
  • Having the closure enlarged for ease of enforcement.
  • Getting it published that ...
 more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: The route is closed for Eagles now, until Aug. 1 or if they nest elsewhere. Signage is clear and the area is monitored. Don't be a jerk and get the closure enlarged by climbing it now.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Super Slab Direct Start (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Technical but secure way though it is to start from the good feet, paste the left foot up on the offset and windmill though with the right hand into the crack above the left (which is just above the pin) before going left hand onto the jug. Then the hard part is over. Technical and grunty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Remention (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: The bulging start with little or no gear at the bottom is the crux of the route and is harder than 5.8.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Eat or be Eaten aka Super S... (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Not bad, and the upper half is quite good going right to the finish of Suparette when you can (at the big block) as well.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Circus Wall : Barbarian (5.6 R)
By: Tony B When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Dan L,
What did you get for pro on P2?
Or am I to understand that the old pins have been replaced by bolts or that hte climb has been retrobolted?

I could change the route description to reflect the current state if you would elaborate.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Crash Test Blondes (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Jan 30, 2016

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Comments: Not sure who replaced these, but the anchor bolts are now fresh ASCA hardware. Support them and your local re-bolting efforts (the BCC) if you value safe hardware.

The top 2 bolts prior to the anchor still need to be replaced.

P.S. very good hand-jam at the roof-crux-flake.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : It's Time For Change (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Just went and checked out the loose rock today with Greg German. Yeah, I don';t think death is imminent, but that series of rocks should go, and it's not a minor undertaking. There is a house of cards in that corner. I suspect we're going to contact CDOT again to get it scaled.

At some point, developers are going to have to think about what responsible development is and stop creating attractive nuisances like this. I'm not sure the average Joe reads this stuff (most don't), and so he... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : South Summit of Green Mount... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments: Sure. I've walked it a few times through the base. It's pretty low angle, very broken at the base, has a large bulge running diagonally up parallel to the ground with a few cracks through it, and is really choked by vegetation. A few routes should go through it of middling quality at best. PM me, and we can chat.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - W... : Left Peyote Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Tradaholic,
I am quit perplexed.
You rated the climb 5.10 and commented that it is V3 (5.11c)???
Which is it?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Angel's Wings aka Devil's W... : Second Angel's Wing (aka So... (5.4 R)
By: Tony B When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments: AKA South Wing Right in the Haas Book.
South Wing Center breaks out onto what is called the 1st Wing here.
Pretty good route, and some of the cleanest hardest rock in the Flatirons.
If it took less than an hour to get in there, they'd get plenty of traffic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sword Of Damocles (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damocles


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: 'Sword of Damocles' climbs up the shallow corners formed by the giant vertical blade of rock 3 meters to the right of the climber in this photo.
It is approached directly from the base of the crack, below and to the right of the bottom of this photo, behind a few small pines.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: This photo is P3 of Wind Tunnel, not P2 of Rhombohedral, which is further right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Rhombohedral (5.8+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Tunneling through the back side of the P3 chimney down low is another way to do this, but it is a very tight squeeze. Best of luck to the big guys on that!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Cruisin' for Burgers (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: The nut to place at the crux (2 of them, actually) are solid and not hard to place. Good thing. This climb was slick 20 years ago, and that foot gets more and more polished!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Baby Sitter (5.9 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Maybe R not PG-13, because the crux is getting up there, you could fall before you get gear, and if you do fall, the landing is bad.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Mohling Arete (5.5 R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: From the last ridge, you can descend East and then just South of the Hippo Head and go south of that but around the top/back of all of the Skunk Canyon Ridges. This is much better once the ferns are down than trying to get back down behind R3 or R4 and then fighting the washed out canyon, which holds snow besides. You hit the Mesa trail in short order, really.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Wounded Knee (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: The roof is pretty physical. Be ready to go for it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Night Stalker (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: To address the description and the first comment here:
A #4 cam would indeed have been helpful at the crux, which is awkward. Can step out right at crux into 2nd crack and back in to make the climb easier.
Multiple #4s? You could place them, but you hardly need them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Pool Skimmer (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: I am one opinion in many, but my partner did happen to agree.
I think with the very extensive mileage I get on routes at that grade (sometimes over 1000' in a day at that grade) I am attuned to it, but if consensus says otherwise, I'll be proven wrong.
Regardless, by that logic, aren't you too strong to rate this as well?


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