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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: moments ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,516
Last Year: 942
Last 30 Days: 18
455 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 16074 | Routes 1313 | Areas 127 | Photos 1526 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1845 | Posts 5066 | Stars 3858 | Ratings 2337
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Northeast : Roadkill (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yep - rap or lower with a 70M.
Slab climbing on GOOD rock here, not crumbles like some "classics" and the rest of the climb is great too. Cams and nuts to 3".


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : One Step Beyond (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: I guess it gets harder every time someone tries it, because the beta I tried didn't work for me, and those holds are not there any more.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Expect No Mercy (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Would be classic if longer. What is this pocket/flake business? Red River Gorge in Granite?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Destroy all Planets (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Runout is OK, and a touch of bad rock is OK, but not at the same time.
This line has both at the sandbag opening... 1-star at most.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock : Animal Cracker (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: A bit thuggy at the crux, but all in good fun.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Funky Bolt (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: PG-13 seems more fair. The crux isn't R, and the fall is not a grounder or ledge fall... so yeah, it's not too bad. Caution merited though.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Double Vision (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Some scary fall potential, yes, but scary is different than dangerous.
If you blew a clip you could hit the ground with an inattentive belayer, but the climbing is protected better than that and PG is fair, but 'R' is really overstating it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Catwalk (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: I think I might be starting to notice a pattern whereas the guidebook gives extra stars to poorly protected sandbags. I do like the route, but 3*'s int he book is generous, and the ankle busting potential on P1 was harder than 5.8...
Perhaps it depends on where you start, but I started in the seam with the 2 pin scars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Poison Ivy Dome : Poison Ivy (5.5)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: A good solo, because the namesake plant is 2/3 the way up the route and can be climbed around, but your rope would surely get in it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Morning Sunshine (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: One move wonder yes... but still only 5.4.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Walking On The Sun (5.12a/b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: Good roue with a few thin holds, then a hard long move. Tough climbing but fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Nimby (5.6)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: Mostly positive holds & climbing. Better and more interesting than it looks from the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Challenger : S.C.R.U.B. (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: May 13, 2016

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Comments: 1 each Camalot: old #4, new #4, new #5.

Up top you can use anything from a #2-#4 for the belay, as the further from the front you are, the narrower the crack.

Difficulty will depend on how straight-on you go for it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Left of 5.10 Flake (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: Pulling the roof is and-size dependent... harder than 5.10+ if the slot is too big to fist-stack!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Blue Gramma (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: A directional camalot (C4) I put in and left for a TR got pivoted and walked upward on Sunday. Absent a tool to get a hold of it, it was not able to be removed by us.
If you get it out with a nut tool, congratulations. If you feel generous, please contact me to return it and I would greatly appreciate that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock
By: Tony B When: Mar 24, 2016

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Comments: The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

That being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means that as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down and the website updated as soon as their web admin can m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress
By: Tony B When: Mar 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

That being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means that as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down and the website updated as soon as their web admin can m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif
By: Tony B When: Mar 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

That being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means that as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down and the website updated as soon as their web admin can m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area
By: Tony B When: Mar 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

Meanwhile, that being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down.

Also - the eagle tag on the first bolt of 'The Y... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock
By: Tony B When: Mar 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

Meanwhile, that being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down.

Also - the eagle tag on the first bolt of The Yo... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Evan's Overlook : Broke Dick (5.10- PG13)
By: Tony B When: Mar 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The poster completely sandbagged the grade here. This is 5.11 and Off-width.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Pegasus : The Golden Bridle (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: The route has been lead, cleaned and verified at the 5.8 grade. The large, loose flake at the crux was fairly easily removed. The rock is now mostly solid. This route is probably not a good solo. My second impression of it, following my partner today, was 'I soloed this in approach shoes? that was a bad idea.' But lead on gear, it is quite good.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Right to Life (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Some not-so-great gear, to say the least. Not something you'd send a newbie trad leader up on, by any means.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: This route is CLOSED because the golden eagle nest is directly on it.
Some things you might be interested in with respect to that is what can happen if you violate the closure. i.e.</em:

  • Ending up in Federal Court.
  • Paying a stiff fine.
  • Doing some time in the Big House.
  • Getting your climbing equipment confiscated.
  • Getting 'trespassed' in the National Forest so that you can't go back in it.
  • Having the closure enlarged for ease of enforcement.
  • Getting it published that ...
 more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Feb 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The route is closed for Eagles now, until Aug. 1 or if they nest elsewhere. Signage is clear and the area is monitored. Don't be a jerk and get the closure enlarged by climbing it now.


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