Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Tony B

Tony B
is a member of
Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,576
Last Year: 910
Last 30 Days: 61
459 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tony B been climbing?










Contributions


All 16137 | Routes 1316 | Areas 127 | Photos 1529 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1860 | Posts 5073 | Stars 3878 | Ratings 2352
Page 2 of 75.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Sunshine Daydream (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: 4-star climbing on what is occasionally 2-star rock.
3 stars over-all, considering the detractors.

The route is pretty good and might have been better if I'd done the bolted face climb P4 instead of the crack P4, which, BTW, is probably more like 5.9 than 10 (or even 10-).
Don't let the grade intimidate you. The feet and fingerlocks are mostly good on the crux pitch and it is pretty well protected in any area of objective difficulty. The crux is just n... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak : Open Book (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Of all the routes we did in the Tetons, this one was the least impressive.
It basically amounts to a 3 pitch climb. After the 1st pitch, the remaining are short pitches broken up by ledges or slabs.
1) P1, glassy 5.9 crux at the bottom.
2) P2/3, 5.9-, short pitches run together.
3) P4-6, including "5.9+" crux option that felt like 5.8.

Indeed the top 'seldom done' wide pitch didn't look to add much quality... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Caveat Emptor (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Best route of those we did in the Tetons, better than Snaz (way better) or Sunshine Daydream, not to mention Open Book...
Each pitch, strung together a bit, is 5.10 and high quality.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : The Snaz (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Good Route over all, and improved by taking the 5.10 variations on Snazeat (P4) and Leroy's uncle's Brother (P7).
Best linking we found:
0) Solo the approach pitch to the belay at the base of P1 (40' + walk, 5.5)
1) Link P1/2 (190', 5.7)
2) Snazeat to the diagonal (120', 5.10)
3) From Snazeat to the top of P5, original crux. (180' 5.9+)
4 &5) Frankly, I forget it - it frankly w... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : No Pun Intended (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Mileage, I guess. Ho hum. Even in tennis shoes we did not find any 5.10 though... Grade similar to the arête to the left, in my opinion.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Scraps (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Bottom and middle crux are bolt protected. Gear sections are maybe 5.9 or so. Sport climbers with a few cams and nuts can go for this one.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Acid Rain (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: If you have gear, it is neither 'R' nor PG.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Lego (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yep. Punch it directly up the arête for a 3star lead.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - East : Circus Direct (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: If it isn't 'that bad' it is at least close. Actual difficulty depends on what sheds off on you and what, to your surprise, holds. Maybe easier for climbers below 22 pounds.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - East : Circus Roof (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Could have been a classic were it a full pitch. Still fun though, and very 'blue collar'.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Scream Cheese (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Meh. One move that gets your attention. The arête next door (left) is actually better climbing if you ask me.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Swiss Cheese (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Gear isn't actually an issue. A nut and large cam, a few bolts, hand sized cams, then various options to top out.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : She Bop (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: One move to get into the crack, then quite easy.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Morning Glory (5.10c/d)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Good mostly for its length. You can do it P1 and then P2-3 linked if you like. Single-rope rap on a 70M easily puts you from the summit to the base of Skyline.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Southwest : Redtail (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Good, and impressive for it's length, but not the best route around.
Also a 70M gets you to a 5.4 downclimb flake. It's not so complicated.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Northeast : Roadkill (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yep - rap or lower with a 70M.
Slab climbing on GOOD rock here, not crumbles like some "classics" and the rest of the climb is great too. Cams and nuts to 3".


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : One Step Beyond (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I guess it gets harder every time someone tries it, because the beta I tried didn't work for me, and those holds are not there any more.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Expect No Mercy (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Would be classic if longer. What is this pocket/flake business? Red River Gorge in Granite?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Destroy all Planets (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Runout is OK, and a touch of bad rock is OK, but not at the same time.
This line has both at the sandbag opening... 1-star at most.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock : Animal Cracker (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A bit thuggy at the crux, but all in good fun.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Funky Bolt (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: PG-13 seems more fair. The crux isn't R, and the fall is not a grounder or ledge fall... so yeah, it's not too bad. Caution merited though.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Double Vision (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Some scary fall potential, yes, but scary is different than dangerous.
If you blew a clip you could hit the ground with an inattentive belayer, but the climbing is protected better than that and PG is fair, but 'R' is really overstating it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Catwalk (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I think I might be starting to notice a pattern whereas the guidebook gives extra stars to poorly protected sandbags. I do like the route, but 3*'s int he book is generous, and the ankle busting potential on P1 was harder than 5.8...
Perhaps it depends on where you start, but I started in the seam with the 2 pin scars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Poison Ivy Dome : Poison Ivy (5.5)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A good solo, because the namesake plant is 2/3 the way up the route and can be climbed around, but your rope would surely get in it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Morning Sunshine (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: One move wonder yes... but still only 5.4.


Page 2 of 75.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!