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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,576
Last Year: 910
Last 30 Days: 61
459 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 16137 | Routes 1316 | Areas 127 | Photos 1529 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1860 | Posts 5073 | Stars 3878 | Ratings 2352
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Lady Mountain : Original Route (5.5)
By: Tony B When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Soloed this in 1995 - a guy up top scoffed at me as I arrived, having seen me on the way up: "They have a trail up here, you know..." (shaking his head).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Sunlight Arete (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: No better or worse than 'Useless One' to the right. They can indeed be done as completely different and isolated routes but are more naturally blended with a few shared moves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Useless One (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: The route has cleaned up well enough, I guess. The initial placement is pretty high if you eschew the bolts down low for a trad route.... Then lots of gear but slightly flaky rock in a few spots. Not unsafe by any means.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Where's Bob? (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: A single placement between 0.75" and 2" will be had between the last and second to last bolt if you feel that you want/need that. The climbing there is easier and, unless you are short, not very committing. If you take any given cam in that range, you ought to be able to find a placement for it. If you take the whole range, you could pack them all in there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: P.S. Boulder Slips is NOT dangerous if you take extra yellow Aliens and 1.5-2" (or green Camalot) cams It's absuurd to say it, and maybe it is 'independent' of the original line of Boulder Slips and Jim did that, however....

Given that Boulder Slips can climb the left or right options up top via cracks on lead from the ground (and having done both), it is crystal clear that this route indeed added bolts to the reach-zon... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Boulder Slips (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: I can't justify giving this an R. I only offer PG-13 in acknowledgement of the SUBJECTIVE possibility of runouts for those carrying a light rack. At the crux, I had 5 placements (yeah, that's a game for me) that I thought were "b" or better just before stepping left under the roof. Up higher I realized that I could get what was likely a yellow Alien or green Camalot (or maybe also a few red Aliens) every 6 feet or so. Seriousl... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Photo
By: Tony B When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: Cool. I've never seen one before!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Neon Lights (5.11a R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: As per the note above abut a yellow Alien in solid rock - yeah, maybe, but it just blew out on Saturday and that's changed. So don't count on that at this point. I went for the route again after running a trail race with no warm up and couldn't get my feet high. I jumped off from a few feet above that cam and ended up taking a 40' fall when it went out.

Luckily, I'd told my partner I expected tha... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Better Lock Next Time (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: Double cams is sufficient, triples in hand size is OK too, you can use 2 red/yellow Camalots if you take them.
A few notes:

P1. Run P1/2 into a 68m pitch as described.

P2. Run P3 into P4 (P2 and 3 as described). Put a long runner on the first 2 placements up in the 10b pitch so that the rope does not wrap on that corner, and then you'll be fine. Pass the low saddle on the left, and continue to the higher belay ledge on the right. This is larger and more comfy - also out of ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Fin : Thinquisition (5.8 X)
By: Tony B When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: This climb can be TR'd or led/followed with reasonable anchors. If you don't want to lead, you can rap into them or climb the moderate E Face to get to each station and TR the pitch below (lower and TR, as this is too long to really rap from).

P1: 5.5, ~160' to small tree East of ledge, or to 4" diameter branches from a ground-based tree that overhang the formation's ridge. A #2 Camalot fits in ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Lost Highway Area : Lost Highway (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: On P3, instead of swinging left to avoid the roofs, you can clip the last bolt prior to them and then go directly upward on underclings and kneebars over the roof and to the anchor. You skip the 2nd to last and perhaps last bolt this way, but it's very good climbing and not runout. It is probably a shave harder than the given 10c grade. Maybe 10d/11a?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: The white line in this photo is The Tanning Block, not Lickstick Sunset. L.S. is correctly labeled below in yellow on the photo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Fire Starter (5.10b/c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: 11c finish is a bit unnatural feeling/contrived. You go left out to a jug and then pull awkwardly over the bulge. Didn't see the single bolt that pinched the chain up above there at first and just went back left to the main anchor, which is not much fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Willie's Wake Up Call Girl (5.11c/d)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Agreed - sharp and awkward.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Baditude (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Jug haul climbing on holds I trusted just fine.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Flesh Eating Flies (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: The single star I give this route is for movement and for what this roue might be if it cleans up. Frankly, I had a no-star experience on it.

The movement on a good route should be the product of limited holds, not forced by the fear that other existing holds will shed out from under you. Furthermore, the 'excitement' of a route should be more about the ability to do the moves, not the gambling aspect of each move, wondering if, or not, the holds you did ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: This route is getting quite popular (AKA: crowded).

The lower pitches are easier than rated, unless you are short - then it might be at grade. The crux 6th pitch is 10+ briefly and given to techy slab work. The route is indeed good and has a casual and fun feel to it most of the time but for when it gets 'alpine' on you. I was jamming up P3 when I hit the thistles growing in the crack "shit just got real." I laughed....

Alon... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Morbid Mound : DOA (5.8 X)
By: Tony B When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: That's a shame.
Hope there gets to be a 'gone' bolt soon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Fire and Rain (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Why on earth traverse left? How about place an Alien under the flakes and lead the SOB directly up? It's 10b, and it's been done. I also cleaned off that 20 lb. loose flake above the Alien-protected roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Smallville (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: It has much improved with age, having cleaned up quite a bit.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nat's Three Star Roof : Spin to Win (5.11 V3) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 1, 2016

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Comments: Nice shoes! Seriously!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock
By: Tony B When: Jul 29, 2016

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Comments: The eagles have left the nest and it is open early this year (2016), by a few days. It will close Feb. 1, 2017 along with Blob and Bitty when the eagles start the nest selection process again.

Thanks for respecting the closure.

From The USFS:
"Eagle Rock in Boulder Canyon has been reopened. Signs have been removed and our web site is updated: fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea.... The eagle pair successfully fledged one young bird this year. Please post and share!"@S... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Prince Charmer (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: Has cleaned up quite a bit. The gear is reasonable. A light rack to 3". 1st and 3rd bolts would be for want of longer slings. Anchors at the top are 5' too high and thus across a long edge. Belay up top and rap, lowering is hard on the ropes. A 60m should get you down OK.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : South Pillar : Water Spirit (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: Has cleaned up a little, and I put some more effort into that.

Would take gear from sm-med stoppers and cams from green Alien - blue Camalot. If you like lots of gear, then double up on cams 1.5-3".


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : MLK (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: If you are below 6', the moves are going to be proportionally harder here and there.

If you are below 6', several of the clips are going to be even more proportionally difficult.

If you are anything between 5'0 and 6'6", however, the ledge fall from the crux headwall onto the flake/ledge is pretty much (if not precisely) the same... and if you are short, you'll likely blow the cli... more >>


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