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Rock Climbing Photo: Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,115
Last Year: 855
Last 30 Days: 43
430 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 15691 | Routes 1295 | Areas 126 | Photos 1495 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1794 | Posts 4945 | Stars 3767 | Ratings 2267
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Circus Wall : Barbarian (5.6 R)
By: Tony B When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Dan L,
What did you get for pro on P2?
Or am I to understand that the old pins have been replaced by bolts or that hte climb has been retrobolted?

I could change the route description to reflect the current state if you would elaborate.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Crash Test Blondes (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Jan 30, 2016

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Comments: Not sure who replaced these, but the anchor bolts are now fresh ASCA hardware. Support them and your local re-bolting efforts (the BCC) if you value safe hardware.

The top 2 bolts prior to the anchor still need to be replaced.

P.S. very good hand-jam at the roof-crux-flake.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : It's Time For Change (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Just went and checked out the loose rock today with Greg German. Yeah, I don';t think death is imminent, but that series of rocks should go, and it's not a minor undertaking. There is a house of cards in that corner. I suspect we're going to contact CDOT again to get it scaled.

At some point, developers are going to have to think about what responsible development is and stop creating attractive nuisances like this. I'm not sure the average Joe reads this stuff (most don't), and so he... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : South Summit of Green Mount... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments: Sure. I've walked it a few times through the base. It's pretty low angle, very broken at the base, has a large bulge running diagonally up parallel to the ground with a few cracks through it, and is really choked by vegetation. A few routes should go through it of middling quality at best. PM me, and we can chat.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - W... : Left Peyote Crack (5.10+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Tradaholic,
I am quit perplexed.
You rated the climb 5.10 and commented that it is V3 (5.11c)???
Which is it?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Angel's Wings aka Devil's W... : Second Angel's Wing (aka So... (5.4 R)
By: Tony B When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments: AKA South Wing Right in the Haas Book.
South Wing Center breaks out onto what is called the 1st Wing here.
Pretty good route, and some of the cleanest hardest rock in the Flatirons.
If it took less than an hour to get in there, they'd get plenty of traffic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sword Of Damocles (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damocles


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: 'Sword of Damocles' climbs up the shallow corners formed by the giant vertical blade of rock 3 meters to the right of the climber in this photo.
It is approached directly from the base of the crack, below and to the right of the bottom of this photo, behind a few small pines.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: This photo is P3 of Wind Tunnel, not P2 of Rhombohedral, which is further right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Rhombohedral (5.8+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Tunneling through the back side of the P3 chimney down low is another way to do this, but it is a very tight squeeze. Best of luck to the big guys on that!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Cruisin' for Burgers (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: The nut to place at the crux (2 of them, actually) are solid and not hard to place. Good thing. This climb was slick 20 years ago, and that foot gets more and more polished!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Baby Sitter (5.9 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Maybe R not PG-13, because the crux is getting up there, you could fall before you get gear, and if you do fall, the landing is bad.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Mohling Arete (5.5 R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: From the last ridge, you can descend East and then just South of the Hippo Head and go south of that but around the top/back of all of the Skunk Canyon Ridges. This is much better once the ferns are down than trying to get back down behind R3 or R4 and then fighting the washed out canyon, which holds snow besides. You hit the Mesa trail in short order, really.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Wounded Knee (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: The roof is pretty physical. Be ready to go for it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Night Stalker (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: To address the description and the first comment here:
A #4 cam would indeed have been helpful at the crux, which is awkward. Can step out right at crux into 2nd crack and back in to make the climb easier.
Multiple #4s? You could place them, but you hardly need them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Pool Skimmer (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: I am one opinion in many, but my partner did happen to agree.
I think with the very extensive mileage I get on routes at that grade (sometimes over 1000' in a day at that grade) I am attuned to it, but if consensus says otherwise, I'll be proven wrong.
Regardless, by that logic, aren't you too strong to rate this as well?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : A Hike for Y2K (5.11d)
By: Tony B When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Did it again this past weekend and found it easier climbing slightly left of the bolts and not clipping #5 until I was up to it, not below the bulge. It all comes down to trusting what look like very bad feet.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Olympic Swimmer (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Seems like 5.5 or 5.6 to me. The variation to the left makes it 5.7-, perhaps.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Pool Skimmer (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Seriously over-graded. 5.7 for one move at the bottom and one move near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : A Hike With Ludwig Dude (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Furthermore, there is also a bomb-proof #1 Camalot placement (or I presume #2.5 Friend, but maybe a #2) in a small, horizontal "pocket" toward the top if you can find that exact spot. Since the climbing is slightly nebulous, you may or may not find this. I did, but my partner at first did not until taking a second lap on the climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: That's pretty nutty. You won't see me threading something like that, let alone hanging on it. Pulling it will put an odd vibrating load on that pin that could leave it suspect/loose for the next party even if it holds you.

In short: "Keep it up, and yer' gonna die."


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : The Sacred Cliffs : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: Boulder County Open Space Calendar....
Front Cover for 2016. There you have it!
Rock Climbing Photo: County Open Space 2016 calendar.
County Open Space 2016 calendar.



Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : No Place Like Home (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: TR Hero, to answer your question:
If you can reach the bolts, you are on route.
And it is not unusual for a route to be height or arm-length dependent.
Nice work on climbing it, was it fun?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Medusa
By: Tony B When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: This crag is indeed signed for raptor closures now, from Feb. 1-Aug. 1.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Stepping Stones (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: If you try to force P1 too directly, being in a bulge just below the most obvious section of dihedral, the climbing in certainly R-rated and probably 5.10 or so. The route dodges about a bit.

I can't image in 5.8 leader being psyched on this route, BTW, but it is good for more advanced climbers.


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