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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 14529 | Routes 1241 | Areas 121 | Photos 1381 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 1650 | Posts 4513 | Stars 3547 | Ratings 2075
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Hard to Say (5.10)
By: Tony B When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The climb is not that great, in my opinion. We did P1 of Mussafar's Home Cookin', since this route was taken by another party, then merged in and climbed the rest. That start and the rest being 1-star climbing. Is it possible that the P1 was really so classic as to make up for the slightly crumbly and ledgy climbing on the rest of the route? I'd still only give it 2 starts if P1 was "excellent." The Black Wall climbs are just that much better, I guess.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Hard to Say (5.10) : Photo
By: Tony B When: 2 days ago

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Comments: That thing really is pretty disconcerting, and if it did come out... yep> Death. The helmet won't help.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Mother Goose (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: 6 days ago

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Comments: P1-P2 linked = 190'. Take a few long slings. Yellow Camalot and a medium Alien can protect the section with gritty rock.


Location: Glenn Schuler : Mt. Herman : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: Wow, cool photo.
I think it's great that Elanor both pointed this out to us AND came clean on her idiocy in a single post.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Tony B When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: The pictures here are well-done enough so as to mislead the viewer into thinking the ridge is more technical than it is. All in all much less interesting than anticipated, but yet the perception of the route seems to keep the crowds away. We did not pass nor were we passed by anyone on the route, despite the virual caterpillar of folks on the other routes up Grey's/Torrey's.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Storm Riders (5.10- R)
By: Tony B When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Eli,
As per the above, that seems to be the case. It looks like we diverged into a different but very similar P2, and from there were off on our own.
The new Rossiter book for RMNP will detail both routes.
I'll try to write these up separately here as well.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Ultimate Everything (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: What size nut?
Are these 3/8" or 1/2" or ???


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
By: Tony B When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Good question. I was going to try to go to Mechanical Man the other day, and it was a new slick trench. No go until the water falls significantly.

Let's be sure to update each approach as we find them.
Desdemona/Area 51 are good to cross - wider than they used to be, but walkable with a stick.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile
By: Tony B When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: How is the approach since the flood?
Any changes?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Creekside : Liquid Therapy (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Even though the bottom may be out of the water & be belayed from a river rock at the base, the creek-spray can make it quite slick for the opening moves.


Location: International : Europe : Norway : Lofoten : Presten : Vestpillaren (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: If this route were in Yosemite, it would be one of the best moderates in Yosemite, and the best of the routes I have done there. This is the very definition of a "destination route."


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: We are old pals - we talk A LOT.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Skull and Bones (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ What is a better substitute?


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Desdemona : Northwest Arete (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Pretty good climbing and gear - not as hard as appearances might suggest. Great as a single pitch.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Desdemona : Oasis Red (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: A little crumbly rock detracts from otherwise very good and interesting climbing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Those are not tights... they are baggy pants.
WINNING!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: For those who were not aware, the Matron closure was lifted early this year (5/15/14) - go for it.
https://bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cliff-nesting-raptor-closur>>>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Egg : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Midway and no helmet? Dude, given how you attack others' photos, I can only conclude that this is an accident...


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : White Wall : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Ben ,
Given your propensity for adding a comment about a helmet to other's photos, I find this offensive. Where is the helmet, again?


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Hatchery : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Ben ,
Given your propensity for adding a comment about a helmet to other's photos, I find this offensive. Where is the helmet?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Deviation, Lower : East Face, Lower Deviation (5.8 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Didn't read this until after I headed up there. When I hit the worst of the crumbling rock at about a meter below the overlap, I turned around and down-climbed the crumbling crap below me back to the base.
The climbing isn't HARD per se. I'd probably run right up it on a rope., but there remains the question of the safety of soloing on this stuff. Roach called the formation "scruffy and unpleasant", and I'd say that's about right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Marie Antoinette (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, the first bolt of M.G. can be reached for and clipped prior to the rising traverse here, but there are still no bolts on it.
And also agreed that the RPs I placed (actually H.B. "Anchors" and B.D. "Copper-Steel") were most useful without the bolt and perhaps not needed if that is what you are going to do, but I thought at least one of them would have held. Then again, I don't fall much, and I could be wrong about that.
Not falling is by far the best option and going after a lead like this... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Cool. Nice to have some longer stuff coming in. How long are those pitches?
The wall that was traditionally called Devil's Head as of 30+ years ago is certainly long enough for 5-6 pitch stuff, and I've personally done some of it.
So there is such potential in the area:
i.e.: Dariush of Balanat.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Saddle Rock : West Dihedral / Saddle Rock
By: Tony B When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: This AM, Wade M. soloed and cleaned a right-hand finish at the top of this climb that goes out right from the corner above the 5.2 Var. onto a sloping ledge and up a crack and flake. The holds are mostly very positive,and the rock seems pretty solid. Some gear would be possible on lead. Maybe 5.7?


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Assembly Line (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Can be done in 3 pitches instead of 5. Nice to keep ahead of a log-jam at belays or to get up there before the heat/cold/storm/dark sets in:
P1 - combine P1/P2 with a 60M rope and 30' of 5.2 simulclimbing or use a 70M rope.
P2 - Do P3 but continue to just below the roof on P4, or with a 70M continue past that roof and belay
P3 - Head for the top of the tower.


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