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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,498
Last Year: 1,011
Last 30 Days: 30
452 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 16018 | Routes 1312 | Areas 127 | Photos 1526 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1837 | Posts 5051 | Stars 3842 | Ratings 2321
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : MLK (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: 2 days ago

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Comments: If you are below 6' the moves are going to be proportionally harder here and there.
If you are below 6' several of the clips are going to be even more proportionally difficult.
If you are anything between 5'0 and 6'6", however, the ledge fall from the crux headwall onto the flake/ledge is pretty much (if not precisely) the same... and if you are short, you'll likely blow the clip an... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Sunshine Daydream (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: 4-star climbing on what is occasionally 2-star rock.
3 stars over-all, considering the detractors.

The route is pretty good and might have been better if I'd done the bolted face climb P4 instead of the crack P4, which, BTW, is probably more like 5.9 than 10 (or even 10-).
Don't let the grade intimidate you. The feet and fingerlocks are mostly good on the crux pitch and it is pretty well protected in any area of objective difficulty. The crux is just n... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak : Open Book (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Of all the routes we did in the Tetons, this one was the least impressive.
It basically amounts to a 3 pitch climb. After the 1st pitch, the remaining are short pitches broken up by ledges or slabs.
1) P1, glassy 5.9 crux at the bottom.
2) P2/3, 5.9-, short pitches run together.
3) P4-6, including "5.9+" crux option that felt like 5.8.

Indeed the top 'seldom done' wide pitch didn't look to add much quality... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Caveat Emptor (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Best route of those we did in the Tetons, better than Snaz (way better) or Sunshine Daydream, not to mention Open Book...
Each pitch, strung together a bit, is 5.10 and high quality.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : The Snaz (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Good Route over all, and improved by taking the 5.10 variations on Snazeat (P4) and Leroy's uncle's Brother (P7).
Best linking we found:
0) Solo the approach pitch to the belay at the base of P1 (40' + walk, 5.5)
1) Link P1/2 (190', 5.7)
2) Snazeat to the diagonal (120', 5.10)
3) From Snazeat to the top of P5, original crux. (180' 5.9+)
4 &5) Frankly, I forget it - it frankly w... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock : Columbine (5.9 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2016

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Comments: Server closed prior to adding description, pro, and dirtections. Admin, please add:

Description:
A few undocumented pitches or do as one. Though it showed no sign of passage, we may not have left much eitehr, so it may be simply undocumented as opposed to untraveled.
No less, this is a good route and deserves some mention and attention.
Ascend first a clean, wide, left facing corner to an squeeze up top, then a short face to a handcrack. The climbing is solid, straight forward, and surprising... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : Cholecystectomy (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Mileage, I guess. Ho hum. Even in tennis shoes we did not find any 5.10 though... Grade similar to the arête to the left, in my opinion.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Scraps (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Bottom and middle crux are bolt protected. Gear sections are maybe 5.9 or so. Sport climbers with a few cams and nuts can go for this one.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Acid Rain (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: If you have gear, it is neither 'R' nor PG.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Lego (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Yep. Punch it directly up the arête for a 3star lead.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - East : Circus Direct (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: If it isn't 'that bad' it is at least close. Actual difficulty depends on what sheds off on you and what, to your surprise, holds. Maybe easier for climbers below 22 pounds.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - East : Circus Roof (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Could have been a classic were it a full pitch. Still fun though, and very 'blue collar'.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Scream Cheese (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Meh. One move that gets your attention. The arête next door (left) is actually better climbing if you ask me.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Swiss Cheese (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Gear isn't actually an issue. A nut and large cam, a few bolts, hand sized cams, then various options to top out.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : She Bop (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: One move to get into the crack, then quite easy.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Morning Glory (5.10c/d)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Good mostly for its length. You can do it P1 and then P2-3 linked if you like. Single-rope rap on a 70M easily puts you from the summit to the base of Skyline.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Southwest : Redtail (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Good, and impressive for it's length, but not the best route around.
Also a 70M gets you to a 5.4 downclimb flake. It's not so complicated.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Northeast : Roadkill (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Yep - rap or lower with a 70M.
Slab climbing on GOOD rock here, not crumbles like some "classics" and the rest of the climb is great too. Cams and nuts to 3".


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : One Step Beyond (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: I guess it gets harder every time someone tries it, because the beta I tried didn't work for me, and those holds are not there any more.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Expect No Mercy (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Would be classic if longer. What is this pocket/flake business? Red River Gorge in Granite?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Destroy all Planets (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Runout is OK, and a touch of bad rock is OK, but not at the same time.
This line has both at the sandbag opening... 1-star at most.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock : Animal Cracker (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: A bit thuggy at the crux, but all in good fun.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Funky Bolt (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: PG-13 seems more fair. The crux isn't R, and the fall is not a grounder or ledge fall... so yeah, it's not too bad. Caution merited though.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Double Vision (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Some scary fall potential, yes, but scary is different than dangerous.
If you blew a clip you could hit the ground with an inattentive belayer, but the climbing is protected better than that and PG is fair, but 'R' is really overstating it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Catwalk (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: I think I might be starting to notice a pattern whereas the guidebook gives extra stars to poorly protected sandbags. I do like the route, but 3*'s int he book is generous, and the ankle busting potential on P1 was harder than 5.8...
Perhaps it depends on where you start, but I started in the seam with the 2 pin scars.


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