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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 23,146
Last Year: 699
Last 30 Days: 287
409 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 14705 | Routes 1253 | Areas 122 | Photos 1422 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1670 | Posts 4543 | Stars 3588 | Ratings 2105
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Saddle Rock : N.E. Face / Saddle Rock (5.2)
By: Tony B When: 2 days ago

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Comments: To find the start as Roach describes it, go around the NE arete and to the East side - you will go uphill maybe 2o yards and look up and on the East Face. You will see "JERS*" in 18" white letters up on a shelf. You "scramble" up 45 deg dirt and shrubs to a shelf, then further up a 30deg incline rock surface, headed primarily westward onto the slab that faces N/NW and across to the high point at it's base.
From there you change shoes and start anything I'd call climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Nah, it is the right climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Crescent (5.6 R)
By: Tony B When: 6 days ago

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Comments: A 70m rope still requires some simul-climbing to get to a solid and comfortable belay on a combination of 1ea #4 and old #4 Camalots. An 80m rope would reach better.
A second pitch get you completely off anything past 3rd class, and from there you can either set an anchor (large stoppers or 2nd knuckle-cams) to rap off East/Northeast (then scramble down to packs for another route) or find or improvise a rap off to the West and walk back around (15-20 min).
As for rack, I took @POUND... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: Cool, thanks for pointing that out, Steve!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
By: Tony B When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: Rap of N Face with a single 80M is good. I just did it Raps are 38M (A 70M WILL NOT REACH), 31M, and then 35M.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Steel Your Face (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: The moves just below the first both could really hurt you if you are not solid at the 5.10 sandy slab grade...
And I think persistent traffic on this climb has made it harder.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Eat the Rich (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: Some rounded flaring edges make this one a little insecure and you tend to overgrip. As such, it is a little pumpy to be a great warm up.
2*'s is what I'd give it. It would be more if it were taller than 40'.

Also - use a rope bag/mat. The prickers at the bottom (goat head burrs and grasses) are absolutely terrible!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: Tony B When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: ^^^
WHAT?!?!?!?

Brandon, can you PM me to discuss details?
I'll be having lunch with some of our state reps soon, and 'criminal justice issues' are what is on the table. I'd like to talk with them about this and preventing this bullshit in the future, but I need something substantial to go on.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Shark's Fin : North Side (5.3)
By: Tony B When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: By "spiral left" I believe that the writer means to say back around to the West and then South sides.... Otherwise the climbing is significantly harder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Smooth (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: This is the best and most solid of all the E Face Routes on the Ironing Boards.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Smoother (5.7 X)
By: Tony B When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Pretty good, but Smooth is a better route overall and more solid. It also protects, which is neither a + or - but of interest to some.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Sphinx : Lower East Face, Sphinx (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Directly up from the tree was 5.8 with some questionable rock, very little protection (a #3 Camalot would have perhaps protected the exit moves), and is quite steep. If you fall, you will need med-evaced or a body recovery.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ If you don't feel safe, you won't be safe, but that doesn't mean adding a bolt.
LCD = Least Common Denominator.
Whatever you do it it scary to somebody. That route gets climbed by a dozen people a day and doesn't need a change.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Head Rock : DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crac... (5.10 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: ^^ Genuine curiosity here. How did you protect off of the belay ledge in the little flare?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The West Arete (of T1) (5.9+ X)
By: Tony B When: Sep 13, 2014

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Comments: 3 pins total there right now - one is left of the arete and backs up with a small (first knuckle) stopper or cam. The two on the arete are so-so but should hold a fall. No way to back them up though.
I believe the FA was done on free solo, so I'm not sure when the pins happened to be placed.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : In And Out Of The Groove (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: The low crux is also pretty height dependent...


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Mallory Flatironette : East Face/Mallory Flatironn... (Easy 5th)
By: Tony B When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ The Shark's Fin is the formation above the cave and between The Hand and The Finger. The Mallory Flatironette is the small slab down and left of the terminus of the cave trail. Its singular summit lies just down and left (S/SE) of the cave entrance.

Some confusion here is probably caused by the height in the description, which is may be accurate, but only places you perhaps 60 or 70' above the point on the Mallory Cave Trail where it leaves dirt and goes onto rock.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Bear Creek Spire : Northeast Corner (5.4)
By: Tony B When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: To answer the above - it is hard to say. The corner up to the large pine with the sling on it (which is unusable, but I was soloing anyway) is not too bad. beyond that - there are good and bad sections of rock. The slabs to the right side of the corner that reach the top are pretty friable and lichen-covered. At the very least, exercise caution, but you can climb it, even solo.
Just FYI - there are far better routes in the Flatirons. Those being almost any you could possibly pick. This was ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ My current set is not lonely.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Marine Life (5.6)
By: Tony B When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Better than it looks. Left side of water streak is more solid and cleaner than the streak itself.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Eyes of the Canyon : Lichen Wars (5.6 R)
By: Tony B When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: After a brief, dirty start, the route quickly becomes more solid and easier than the given name/grade implies.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Red Tide (5.10c R)
By: Tony B When: Aug 23, 2014

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Comments: Might be harder than it was, as I broke off several holds.
Leading this would be a total gamble.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Hard to Say (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: The climb is not that great, in my opinion. We did P1 of Mussafar's Home Cookin', since this route was taken by another party, then merged in and climbed the rest. That start and the rest being 1-star climbing. Is it possible that the P1 was really so classic as to make up for the slightly crumbly and ledgy climbing on the rest of the route? I'd still only give it 2 starts if P1 was "excellent." The Black Wall climbs are just that much better, I guess.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Hard to Say (5.10) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: That thing really is pretty disconcerting, and if it did come out... yep> Death. The helmet won't help.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Mother Goose (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: P1-P2 linked = 190'. Take a few long slings. Yellow Camalot and a medium Alien can protect the section with gritty rock.


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