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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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Tony B
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 15853 | Routes 1305 | Areas 126 | Photos 1517 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1807 | Posts 5032 | Stars 3787 | Ratings 2277
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Left of 5.10 Flake (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: Mar 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Pulling the roof is and-size dependent... harder than 5.10+ if the slot is too big to fist-stack!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Blue Gramma (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: A directional camalot (C4) I put in and left for a TR got pivoted and walked upward on Sunday. Absent a tool to get a hold of it, it was not able to be removed by us.
If you get it out with a nut tool, congratulations. If you feel generous, please contact me to return it and I would greatly appreciate that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock
By: Tony B When: Mar 24, 2016

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Comments: The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

That being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means that as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down and the website updated as soon as their web admin can m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress
By: Tony B When: Mar 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

That being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means that as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down and the website updated as soon as their web admin can m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif
By: Tony B When: Mar 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

That being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means that as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down and the website updated as soon as their web admin can m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area
By: Tony B When: Mar 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

Meanwhile, that being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down.

Also - the eagle tag on the first bolt of 'The Y... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock
By: Tony B When: Mar 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The eagles have settled on the nest on Eagle Rock this year and are incubating there. Please be sure to respect that closure.

Meanwhile, that being the case, the USFS has opened the other area closures now that the other nests are determined not to be used this year. That means as of now, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress are open.

The snow has prevented the USFS from getting to the closure signs so far, but they will be coming down.

Also - the eagle tag on the first bolt of The Yo... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Evan's Overlook : Broke Dick (5.10- PG13)
By: Tony B When: Mar 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The poster completely sandbagged the grade here. This is 5.11 and Off-width.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Pegasus : The Golden Bridle (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: The route has been lead, cleaned and verified at the 5.8 grade. The large, loose flake at the crux was fairly easily removed. The rock is now mostly solid. This route is probably not a good solo. My second impression of it, following my partner today, was 'I soloed this in approach shoes? that was a bad idea.' But lead on gear, it is quite good.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Right to Life (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Some not-so-great gear, to say the least. Not something you'd send a newbie trad leader up on, by any means.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: This route is CLOSED because the golden eagle nest is directly on it.
Some things you might be interested in with respect to that is what can happen if you violate the closure. i.e.</em:

  • Ending up in Federal Court.
  • Paying a stiff fine.
  • Doing some time in the Big House.
  • Getting your climbing equipment confiscated.
  • Getting 'trespassed' in the National Forest so that you can't go back in it.
  • Having the closure enlarged for ease of enforcement.
  • Getting it published that ...
 more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Feb 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The route is closed for Eagles now, until Aug. 1 or if they nest elsewhere. Signage is clear and the area is monitored. Don't be a jerk and get the closure enlarged by climbing it now.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Super Slab Direct Start (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Technical but secure way though it is to start from the good feet, paste the left foot up on the offset and windmill though with the right hand into the crack above the left (which is just above the pin) before going left hand onto the jug. Then the hard part is over. Technical and grunty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Remention (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: The bulging start with little or no gear at the bottom is the crux of the route and is harder than 5.8.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Eat or be Eaten aka Super S... (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Not bad, and the upper half is quite good going right to the finish of Suparette when you can (at the big block) as well.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Circus Wall : Barbarian (5.6 R)
By: Tony B When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Dan L,
What did you get for pro on P2?
Or am I to understand that the old pins have been replaced by bolts or that hte climb has been retrobolted?

I could change the route description to reflect the current state if you would elaborate.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Crash Test Blondes (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Jan 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure who replaced these, but the anchor bolts are now fresh ASCA hardware. Support them and your local re-bolting efforts (the BCC) if you value safe hardware.

The top 2 bolts prior to the anchor still need to be replaced.

P.S. very good hand-jam at the roof-crux-flake.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : It's Time For Change (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jan 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Just went and checked out the loose rock today with Greg German. Yeah, I don';t think death is imminent, but that series of rocks should go, and it's not a minor undertaking. There is a house of cards in that corner. I suspect we're going to contact CDOT again to get it scaled.

At some point, developers are going to have to think about what responsible development is and stop creating attractive nuisances like this. I'm not sure the average Joe reads this stuff (most don't), and so he... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : South Summit of Green Mount... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Dec 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Sure. I've walked it a few times through the base. It's pretty low angle, very broken at the base, has a large bulge running diagonally up parallel to the ground with a few cracks through it, and is really choked by vegetation. A few routes should go through it of middling quality at best. PM me, and we can chat.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - W... : Left Peyote Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Tradaholic,
I am quit perplexed.
You rated the climb 5.10 and commented that it is V3 (5.11c)???
Which is it?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Angel's Wings aka Devil's W... : Second Angel's Wing (aka So... (5.4 R)
By: Tony B When: Dec 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: AKA South Wing Right in the Haas Book.
South Wing Center breaks out onto what is called the 1st Wing here.
Pretty good route, and some of the cleanest hardest rock in the Flatirons.
If it took less than an hour to get in there, they'd get plenty of traffic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sword Of Damocles (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damocles


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: 'Sword of Damocles' climbs up the shallow corners formed by the giant vertical blade of rock 3 meters to the right of the climber in this photo.
It is approached directly from the base of the crack, below and to the right of the bottom of this photo, behind a few small pines.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This photo is P3 of Wind Tunnel, not P2 of Rhombohedral, which is further right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Rhombohedral (5.8+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Tunneling through the back side of the P3 chimney down low is another way to do this, but it is a very tight squeeze. Best of luck to the big guys on that!


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