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Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11 PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of comments here regarding my given protection rating for this route. An astute reader should note that I said I did it without a large cam (no #5) and that the R/X was for such, but that large cams would fix the problem. In case that was less than clear here we go again:
Protected without a #5 or larger: R for the runout, X for the ledge below it.
With large cams: PG-13 for occasional forays above gear, decisions on when to leave the piece, and occasional soft ... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg,
Yeah, sounds like I misunderstood your intent there... prompted by the wonder at why you didn't just ask me. I'll admit to being very, very under-slept that day and a bit sick, so I was grumpy. Sorry if it made you the target of an unnecessary rant.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quoth Greg Hand:
"Does this mean Tony removed the bolts, or did he arrive and seeing no bolts, led it on gear? Richard, I can help you put the route back so that Gillett's guide does not mislead anyone."
Greg,
Why on earth would anyone such as yourself address anybody other than me with that first question??? So obviously asking someone other than me to speculate about what I did or did not do is silliness. I only came back to this thread after someone told me it was here and suggested that ... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: All the bolts except #1 are gone, including the anchors. Lead it trad at 5.9, R or X depending on how you feel about the gear you run out the crux on holding; I thought it might. But then again there is that ledge....
Anyway, it goes trad.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : P. Mosh Wall
By: Tony B When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was wondering - thanks for the detail. Best we had come up with was Pit Mosh.
The climbs here are nice little slabs - better than they looked at first. Good find. Also a little more challenging than I expected at the grade, but that's not a bad thing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Macbeth
By: Tony B When: Apr 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If from the North end, there is a little more climbing, but the extra length is not stellar. The better half is the top anyway.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Saddle Rock : North Ridge / Saddle Rock
By: Tony B When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not very nice when it has been wet lately....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldo Wind Tower Trail Maint...
By: Tony B When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bump - RSVP is actually to me (use the link to my name here) and is important so we can plan for food. Work will probably end a little after 1PM, and the BCC will serve a complimentary lunch for the volunteers. Thanks for your help!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That buttress would be the Bastille.
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Location: Tony B : So Now What? : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Healthy, happy baby girl... and lucky for us, an easy-going kid.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : The G.Y. Dihedral (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is such a prominent feature, yet it gets almost no traffic. I cleaned the lichen off of it years ago... and to a small degree, again today. Perhaps since it is not for the squeamish if you are only leading 5.8. You could take a big fall from the crux if your small/marginal gear there failed.
There are good holds on the arete to the left of the bush, so go left there and back.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Apostle
By: Tony B When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I may agree with the the OP, above, that there are Flatirons with better climbing in the area, or perhaps just more variety, I disagree with the apparent idea that this one is less worthy of a visit. A recent trip there netted 5 distinct lines we climbed, and, remarkably, the two best of these were not documented. Furthermore, the 3rd best was listed as a variation to the main route.
Perhaps the less-than-great review given above was due to the best climbing not being well covered by the... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Friday's Folly Direct (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Jan 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing this directly up the arete to the edge and staying on that arete is harder, has less gear and is a little heads-up for gear but offers some variety. You end up above the 2nd bolted belay a way and have to build an anchor of small cams and small/med nuts.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : West Door (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jan 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.8 if you are 5'10". I can see where taller could be easier, as you could skip the smaller sidepull.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Jaws : East Face Left (5.3 X)
By: Tony B When: Jan 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the more lichenous climbs around, and that is a detractor.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Jaws : North Ridge (5.0)
By: Tony B When: Jan 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice route that is far longer than one would suspect. There are cruxes much harder than 5.0 if you don't climb way down and left at the breaks in the ridge. I did some 5.6 or harder going between the various rocks, but some of this could have been avoided by climbing down and back up a ways.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatironette : Southeast Ridge (4th)
By: Tony B When: Jan 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot dirty for a few body lengths, a little dirty for several more, the solid, clean rock the rest of the way.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Harmon Flatironette : South Arete (5.3)
By: Tony B When: Jan 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The system kicked me out in the middle of 'creating' this route. Here are the details:
Details:
Follow the blunt South arete to the top of the cliff, staying within an arms reach of it. This route feels more "5th class" in some sections than others, and the subgrade I have given reflects the overall feel of it. There may be a slightly harder move here or there. The rock is cleaner, less broken, and is more exposed than the standard 'East Face South Side' 4th class slab.
Directions:
This ro... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Enchanted Devil (5.3 R)
By: Tony B When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As Per Leo's comment: to address that concern, just be sure to be and stay right (North) of the massive chockstones that jut out of the gully between the sections in question, producing large roofs. If you are to the right of those, you are in the right place.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Nebel Via (5.0)
By: Tony B When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A so-so scramble/hike, but a heck of a beautiful summit!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The North Ridge (of Dinosau... : Blank Sheets (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Namesake :
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The North Ridge (of Dinosau... : Idly I De-Ice (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Nameske
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : 667 (5.5 R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FWIW, When Marc A. and I recently did 666 proper (tandem solo after Enchanted Devil on Thanksgiving), we couldn't figure out where the supposed 5.6 moves were either. I 'downgraded' that to 5.4, but it could have just as easily been 5.3. It was easier, in both of our eyes, than Enchanted Devil (5.4), but I didn't want to take a 6 all the way down to 3 considering I might not be terribly sensitive to grades in that range.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : 667 (5.5 R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like you were just out to the climber's right of the 'normal' route for 666. In the top photos, I can see the huge chockstones that should be there, but you were less on the arete. As the climbing on each of the various sub-features of each ridge is generally the same as on the long south end of the features, these are considered variations. For an IE, refer to the Haas book for Enchanted Devil where it has a variation at the same grade for climbing the center of the face instead of the... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : 666 (5.6 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Nov 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure where the 5.6 on this would be. It was no harder than Enchanted Devil (5.4).
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