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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,468
Last Year: 990
Last 30 Days: 79
451 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 15998 | Routes 1311 | Areas 126 | Photos 1526 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1832 | Posts 5052 | Stars 3834 | Ratings 2315
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock : Columbine (5.9 PG13)
By: Tony B When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Server closed prior to adding description, pro, and dirtections. Admin, please add:

Description:
A few undocumented pitches or do as one. Though it showed no sign of passage, we may not have left much eitehr, so it may be simply undocumented as opposed to untraveled.
No less, this is a good route and deserves some mention and attention.
Ascend first a clean, wide, left facing corner to an squeeze up top, then a short face to a handcrack. The climbing is solid, straight forward, and surprising... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : Cholecystectomy (5.8)
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Mileage, I guess. Ho hum. Even in tennis shoes we did not find any 5.10 though... Grade similar to the arête to the left, in my opinion.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Scraps (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Bottom and middle crux are bolt protected. Gear sections are maybe 5.9 or so. Sport climbers with a few cams and nuts can go for this one.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Acid Rain (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago

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Comments: If you have gear, it is neither 'R' nor PG.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Lego (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Yep. Punch it directly up the arête for a 3star lead.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - East : Circus Direct (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago

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Comments: If it isn't 'that bad' it is at least close. Actual difficulty depends on what sheds off on you and what, to your surprise, holds. Maybe easier for climbers below 22 pounds.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - East : Circus Roof (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Could have been a classic were it a full pitch. Still fun though, and very 'blue collar'.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Scream Cheese (5.9)
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Meh. One move that gets your attention. The arête next door (left) is actually better climbing if you ask me.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Swiss Cheese (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Gear isn't actually an issue. A nut and large cam, a few bolts, hand sized cams, then various options to top out.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : She Bop (5.9)
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago

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Comments: One move to get into the crack, then quite easy.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Morning Glory (5.10c/d)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Good mostly for its length. You can do it P1 and then P2-3 linked if you like. Single-rope rap on a 70M easily puts you from the summit to the base of Skyline.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Southwest : Redtail (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Good, and impressive for it's length, but not the best route around.
Also a 70M gets you to a 5.4 downclimb flake. It's not so complicated.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Northeast : Roadkill (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Yep - rap or lower with a 70M.
Slab climbing on GOOD rock here, not crumbles like some "classics" and the rest of the climb is great too. Cams and nuts to 3".


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : One Step Beyond (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: I guess it gets harder every time someone tries it, because the beta I tried didn't work for me, and those holds are not there any more.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Expect No Mercy (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Would be classic if longer. What is this pocket/flake business? Red River Gorge in Granite?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Destroy all Planets (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Runout is OK, and a touch of bad rock is OK, but not at the same time.
This line has both at the sandbag opening... 1-star at most.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock : Animal Cracker (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: A bit thuggy at the crux, but all in good fun.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Funky Bolt (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: PG-13 seems more fair. The crux isn't R, and the fall is not a grounder or ledge fall... so yeah, it's not too bad. Caution merited though.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Double Vision (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Some scary fall potential, yes, but scary is different than dangerous.
If you blew a clip you could hit the ground with an inattentive belayer, but the climbing is protected better than that and PG is fair, but 'R' is really overstating it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Catwalk (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: I think I might be starting to notice a pattern whereas the guidebook gives extra stars to poorly protected sandbags. I do like the route, but 3*'s int he book is generous, and the ankle busting potential on P1 was harder than 5.8...
Perhaps it depends on where you start, but I started in the seam with the 2 pin scars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Poison Ivy Dome : Poison Ivy (5.5)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: A good solo, because the namesake plant is 2/3 the way up the route and can be climbed around, but your rope would surely get in it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Morning Sunshine (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: One move wonder yes... but still only 5.4.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Walking On The Sun (5.12a/b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: Good roue with a few thin holds, then a hard long move. Tough climbing but fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Nimby (5.6)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: Mostly positive holds & climbing. Better and more interesting than it looks from the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Challenger : S.C.R.U.B. (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: May 13, 2016

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Comments: 1 each Camalot: old #4, new #4, new #5.

Up top you can use anything from a #2-#4 for the belay, as the further from the front you are, the narrower the crack.

Difficulty will depend on how straight-on you go for it.


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