Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Tony B

Tony B
is a member of
Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 24,516
Last Year: 942
Last 30 Days: 18
455 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tony B been climbing?










Contributions


All 16075 | Routes 1313 | Areas 127 | Photos 1526 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1845 | Posts 5067 | Stars 3858 | Ratings 2337
Page 1 of 74.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: Aug 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route is getting quite popular (AKA: crowded).

The lower pitches are easier than rated, unless you are short - then it might be at grade. The crux 6th pitch is 10+ briefly and given to techy slab work. The route is indeed good and has a casual and fun feel to it most of the time but for when it gets 'alpine' on you. I was jamming up P3 when I hit the thistles growing in the crack "shit just got real." I laughed....

Alon... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Morbid Mound : DOA (5.8 X)
By: Tony B When: Aug 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: That's a shame.
Hope there gets to be a 'gone' bolt soon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Fire and Rain (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Why on earth traverse left? How about place an Alien under the flakes and lead the SOB directly up? It's 10b, and it's been done. I also cleaned off that 20 lb. loose flake above the Alien-protected roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Smallville (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: It has much improved with age, having cleaned up quite a bit.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nat's Three Star Roof : Spin to Win (5.11 V3) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Nice shoes! Seriously!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock
By: Tony B When: Jul 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The eagles have left the nest and it is open early this year (2016), by a few days. It will close Feb. 1, 2017 along with Blob and Bitty when the eagles start the nest selection process again.

Thanks for respecting the closure.

From The USFS:
"Eagle Rock in Boulder Canyon has been reopened. Signs have been removed and our web site is updated: fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea.... The eagle pair successfully fledged one young bird this year. Please post and share!"@S... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Prince Charmer (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Has cleaned up quite a bit. The gear is reasonable. A light rack to 3". 1st and 3rd bolts would be for want of longer slings. Anchors at the top are 5' too high and thus across a long edge. Belay up top and rap, lowering is hard on the ropes. A 60m should get you down OK.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : South Pillar : Water Spirit (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Has cleaned up a little, and I put some more effort into that.

Would take gear from sm-med stoppers and cams from green Alien - blue Camalot. If you like lots of gear, then double up on cams 1.5-3".


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : MLK (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: If you are below 6', the moves are going to be proportionally harder here and there.

If you are below 6', several of the clips are going to be even more proportionally difficult.

If you are anything between 5'0 and 6'6", however, the ledge fall from the crux headwall onto the flake/ledge is pretty much (if not precisely) the same... and if you are short, you'll likely blow the cli... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Sunshine Daydream (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: 4-star climbing on what is occasionally 2-star rock.
3 stars over-all, considering the detractors.

The route is pretty good and might have been better if I'd done the bolted face climb P4 instead of the crack P4, which, BTW, is probably more like 5.9 than 10 (or even 10-).
Don't let the grade intimidate you. The feet and fingerlocks are mostly good on the crux pitch and it is pretty well protected in any area of objective difficulty. The crux is just n... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak : Open Book (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Of all the routes we did in the Tetons, this one was the least impressive.
It basically amounts to a 3 pitch climb. After the 1st pitch, the remaining are short pitches broken up by ledges or slabs.
1) P1, glassy 5.9 crux at the bottom.
2) P2/3, 5.9-, short pitches run together.
3) P4-6, including "5.9+" crux option that felt like 5.8.

Indeed the top 'seldom done' wide pitch didn't look to add much quality... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Caveat Emptor (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Best route of those we did in the Tetons, better than Snaz (way better) or Sunshine Daydream, not to mention Open Book...
Each pitch, strung together a bit, is 5.10 and high quality.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : The Snaz (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Good Route over all, and improved by taking the 5.10 variations on Snazeat (P4) and Leroy's uncle's Brother (P7).
Best linking we found:
0) Solo the approach pitch to the belay at the base of P1 (40' + walk, 5.5)
1) Link P1/2 (190', 5.7)
2) Snazeat to the diagonal (120', 5.10)
3) From Snazeat to the top of P5, original crux. (180' 5.9+)
4 &5) Frankly, I forget it - it frankly w... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock : Columbine (5.9 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Server closed prior to adding description, pro, and dirtections. Admin, please add:

Description:
A few undocumented pitches or do as one. Though it showed no sign of passage, we may not have left much eitehr, so it may be simply undocumented as opposed to untraveled.
No less, this is a good route and deserves some mention and attention.
Ascend first a clean, wide, left facing corner to an squeeze up top, then a short face to a handcrack. The climbing is solid, straight forward, and surprising... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : No Pun Intended (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Mileage, I guess. Ho hum. Even in tennis shoes we did not find any 5.10 though... Grade similar to the arête to the left, in my opinion.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Scraps (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Bottom and middle crux are bolt protected. Gear sections are maybe 5.9 or so. Sport climbers with a few cams and nuts can go for this one.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Acid Rain (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: If you have gear, it is neither 'R' nor PG.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Lego (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yep. Punch it directly up the arête for a 3star lead.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - East : Circus Direct (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: If it isn't 'that bad' it is at least close. Actual difficulty depends on what sheds off on you and what, to your surprise, holds. Maybe easier for climbers below 22 pounds.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - East : Circus Roof (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Could have been a classic were it a full pitch. Still fun though, and very 'blue collar'.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Scream Cheese (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Meh. One move that gets your attention. The arête next door (left) is actually better climbing if you ask me.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Swiss Cheese (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Gear isn't actually an issue. A nut and large cam, a few bolts, hand sized cams, then various options to top out.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : She Bop (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: One move to get into the crack, then quite easy.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Morning Glory (5.10c/d)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Good mostly for its length. You can do it P1 and then P2-3 linked if you like. Single-rope rap on a 70M easily puts you from the summit to the base of Skyline.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Southwest : Redtail (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Good, and impressive for it's length, but not the best route around.
Also a 70M gets you to a 5.4 downclimb flake. It's not so complicated.


Page 1 of 74.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!