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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : La Reina (5.9)
By: Tommy G. When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start got my attention, but it seemed to ease from there. The flakes were a bit suspect, but not super scary or anything. I can understand them being more disconcerting on a solo. I just tossed my rope at the top of the crack and ran the belay strand over that to avoid it getting sucked down. Worthwhile tick.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Calcutta (5.8)
By: Tommy G. When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you climb this with some finesse, I think it's more in line with the grade. I thought it was great fun.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Johnson Canyon : Canyon Entrance Routes : ... : Chute the Moon (5.6)
By: Tommy G. When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha, fun one to run up if you're back here. Good friction/mental practice.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outward Bound Slab : Tres Fun (5.10a)
By: Tommy G. When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somewhat awkward start leads to a short steep section, some fun jams throughout. Worthwhile.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outward Bound Slab : One For The Road (5.10a)
By: Tommy G. When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Protects pretty easily & well with small gear. Looks a bit sketch from the ground. A few fully fun moves, but too short. Tres Fun (p2 .10a above) is worth going up for if you're in the area.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outward Bound Slab : Mom For The Road (5.7+)
By: Tommy G. When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worthwhile if you are climbing in the area, lots of sun. Turning over the roof is fun.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Kemosabe (5.10a)
By: Tommy G. When: Dec 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Memorable climbing. I didn't want to fall above that over hang. Gear was somewhat sobering, but more than adequate.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Zigzag (5.9+)
By: Tommy G. When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few years ago on a real cold January day I decided to warm up on this route. I casually headed into the chimney and desperate 5.10b seems about right. I'm sure there have been many unsuspecting victims over the years. Made for a memorable climb! Glad I got suckered in.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : The Flake (5.8)
By: Tommy G. When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have wanted to get on this for a while. Seeing someone on the top slab is pretty crazy looking from Park Road! Pretty awesome. Get yo' chimney on.
Crazy wind up top :/
Chimney is the crux.
Figure out a belay from inside the pit to avoid buffeting on a windy day. Starts and ends memorably.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Stirrup Rock : Stirrup Rock - North Face : New Toy (5.6)
By: Tommy G. When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a bad route by any means. It was pretty clean, at least I didn't notice much. Nice place to get away, wander around and get on random routes.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Hex Marks the Poot (5.8)
By: Tommy G. When: Nov 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was relatively awkward on my first time leading this, the second time I managed to smooth it out. Two stars, but a must-do one day walking out of the wonderland.
I remember the second pitch being a bit creepy with small gear behind a big hollow flake. Interesting climbing though.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Gateway Rock : Broken Glass (5.10a)
By: Tommy G. When: Nov 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not to be missed. It's right there, but it seems overlooked. Would be a fun outing to hit up Illusion Dweller & Ball Bearing along with it. It is indeed sharp, but makes for solid jams. 10a is fair and a good audience can be fun sometimes.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Brown and Serve (5.11a PG13)
By: Tommy G. When: Nov 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring the small stuff. The gear is good though.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Jerry Brown (5.10b)
By: Tommy G. When: Nov 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great rock in a great winter spot. This route makes you try hard and is fulfilling!!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : Dummy's Delight (5.9)
By: Tommy G. When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really nice moves through most of the crack (if you can finesse it right)-- an array of crack sizes and perhaps a satisfying layback move or two. Haha, walking the plank would be crazy, Russ!!!
I got a little awkward towards the end (bad feet), but I'm sure it could be done in better style. I'd say that it earns the 3 stars. On the harder end of 5.9 IMO.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : Loose Lady (5.10a)
By: Tommy G. When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. All of the business is well protected. Cruised it; there aren't many great opportunities to hang out. Easier than Dummy's Delight around the corner.
Houser buttress is a nice place to post up on a cold day.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation (5.9)
By: Tommy G. When: Aug 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 2 is not overly run out if you have some small cams, and I prefer it to p2 of the Jam Crack.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Piton Pooper (5.7)
By: Tommy G. When: Jun 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dihedral pitch is steep. Real, real good climbing for the grade.
To get to the start of Piton Pooper I would recommend starting up the 1st 2 pitches of Dave's Deviation (5.9).
With decent rope mgmt you can get all the way up and left to the small pine tree where Upper Royal's Arch starts (5.8 or 5.10).
The Piton Pooper corner is between these. Great link up.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Upper Royal's Arch (5.7)
By: Tommy G. When: Jun 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great finish for several link up variations. You can stay in the crack the whole way (a couple of PG moves @ 5.10). Good fun.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Spoodle (5.9)
By: Tommy G. When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mega-fungus growing in the alcove. Freaking crazy. Thought the route was kinda hard. many moves at the grade, and the lower crack is a bit physical. protects well. Worth doing despite how semi-mediocre it looks from the ground (and you get to tick off another "poodle route." ;)
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks Area : Conan's Corridor : Spiderman (5.10a)
By: Tommy G. When: Feb 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this for the second time this past weekend. I remembered feeling sick after I topped out the first time. Same experience this time. I agree with the person above that nothing on this is much (if at all) harder than .10a,,, but see what you think when you get to the top. VERY, very good & memorable. My favorite in the corridor for sure!
Gear to BD #4 was totally comfortable, but anything less might result in the terror.
See if you can do it sans tape gloves without any blood!!! ... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Right Side : Damn Jam (5.6)
By: Tommy G. When: Feb 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love the Damn Jam! Make your friends climb it.
You can climb it safely with gear to BD#3. The anchor requires a 2 and a 3 (or a couple 3's). A BD#1 fits perfectly in a slot right before the top "runout." It's not really runout, but without something in that slot it would be more exciting.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Outhouse Rock : Outhouse Rock - East Face : Strawberry Jam (5.9)
By: Tommy G. When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just went for it straight up and into the crack after placing 2 cams from the gap (offsets worked GReAT... they seem to work great on a lot of route @ josh). Anyway. I pulled up just below the crack and then pitched off (and caught just before I plunged into the chimney gap below! Yikes. Have not fallen off a .9 in a loooong time... I think I was being a bit too casual ;)
I managed a fine anchor with 2x BD .75 and one BD .4
P.S. well worth climbing. Interesting/not your avera... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si...
By: Tommy G. When: Nov 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: No bolt(s) that I could find at the top. Semi-sketch down climb on the far right seems like the way to go.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Hot Fudge (5.9 R)
By: Tommy G. When: Nov 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route! I led it, but did not notice/find any chicken heads that would have taken a sling well.
Very moderate with big holds, but quite run out. A fall at or just before getting to the second crack would be a screamer.
No bolts a the top that I could find. Going off the back into Rock Garden Valley is bad news. Scramble down near the right end of the wall I guess?
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