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Member Since: Aug 8, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Tommy G.


Point Rank: # 4,312
Total Points: 99
Last Year: 22
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tommy G. been climbing?










Contributions


All 79 | Routes | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 2 | Stars 9 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Little Dome : Carnivore Boulders : High Octane (5.11a)
By: Tommy G. When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Almost a boulder problem, high octane offers up some great finger crack real estate and some interesting movement to pass the pod. Small gear. Plenty of gear anchor options at the top.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Little Dome : Lizardhead Boulders : Not So Pumper (5.9)
By: Tommy G. When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: The name of this route is misleading. Climb it.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Devil's Slide : Knuckle Duster (5.9)
By: Tommy G. When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Fun route, I thought it casual for the grade. As eluded to in an earlier post, a rap from the anchors on a 70m leaves you a bit short of the large ledge, but it's a very easy down climb (in other words, 70m is fine, just pay attention to the ends of your rope).


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Fly on a Windshield (5.10a)
By: Tommy G. When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: You won't have any issues with the runout above if you were solid up to the first anchor. Easy, but somewhat interesting runout moves above. You can find a rap station about 15' right of the downward facing flake (place gear with a double length and traverse or go straight to them without gear)... you can rap with a 70m from here.

The height of the first bolt was intimidating, but the climbing to reach it is mercifully laid back. Cool flakes and jugs near the first bolt, followed by some semi-... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary : Grass Crack (5.10)
By: Tommy G. When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: High quality climbing. Excellent thin sequence in the first half. It stays good throughout.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : TJ Swan (5.8)
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: I can see wanting to place a piece in the flake before you reach that first bolt. It's a bit more daring than reaching the first bolt on Ripple, although it's still pretty easy terrain. I thought the movement over the bulge was great. Big holds and high steps. Fun!


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Ripple (5.9+)
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: No real need to place gear low (unless you're really feeling the butterflies I guess). I was psyched on the semi-desperate moves through the inital two bolts, but wish it didn't ease up quite so much above. I was just right of the first bolt as I moved up and over to the second. That felt natural. Very well protected by any standard.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos... : Snatch (5.8)
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: "Offwidth" section in the beginning has hand jamming options if you want them. Short, somewhat strenuous section right off the ground and much easier after that. Left leaning hand crack at the top is cool, but short. Looked like a fun option to the right as well, but of course I went with the crack.

Overall, somewhat worthwhile. Might as well tick it off for additional real estate in between Little Feat and the gems around the corner.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Stranger Than Friction (5.10b PG13)
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: That first mantle is the business. Excellent route that keeps coming, and one of the most memorable slab routes I've ever been on. The upper mantle over the mild runout is perfect! You'll find the long runout above the last bolt to be super cruiser if you've made it that far without problems.

I unclipped the first bolt after clipping the 2nd. Didn't see much need for extending the last & had no problems.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Buzzard's Roost : Southeast Face : P.G. 13 (5.10b)
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Great climb on excellent rock. While the route is never easy, the movement past the last bolt felt pretty desperate. No longer R like is says in the O'Grady guidebook... lead it!


Location: International : Africa : Kenya : Photo
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: I went here, but I'm not sure about climbing this.... might want to be careful as to who sees you do it as I could see some of the locals not taking kindly. Looks epic, but dirty (& wide!!!) Would love a report if you know people who have been up it.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Little Dome : Kingdom of Zilch
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Kingdom of Zilch rocks! Offers the easiest access to a wide range of climbs. 5-10 min approach from the parking lot. Sun in the morning, shade in the afternoon. Many opportunities to esacpe the sun regardless of time of day.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Little Dome : Kingdom of Zilch : Sci-Fi wall : Chimney Crack (5.6)
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Kind of an ackward start, but a fun interesting route that allows the climber to stem out in the chimney when you get a bit higher in the crack. I set an anchor right at the top of the crack using BD 0.75 & 1 (or something about that size) instead of jacking around with the wide horizontals that surround the top as I've known some to do. You can decend quickly with an ackward roll/crawl through the gap to the climbers right from the top.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : News Wall : No Sweat (5.5)
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Very easy access scramble to the top of the Sweat climbs, this thing is no 5.5. Don't make this your first lead... too soft!


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : News Wall : Sweat (5.7)
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Fantastic easy crack!! As mentioned above, the wider section in the beginning can be overcome by getting in deep and using the flake/layback, but why not hone your technique on this low angle beauty? Especially for aspiring crackheads-- lead it, set a TR and work it. Get a feel for fists and then slam some jams!


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : News Wall : Pro Sweat (5.9)
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Opens with somewhat powerful moves up and over the flake to the first bolt with delicate moves following above. Great, well protected route paired with Sweat as a warmup. Go do Runamuck after this!


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Little Dome : Kingdom of Zilch : Lower Balcony : Breaking Out (V0+)
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Proximity to the campsite and low crux makes this a good evening post-dinner jaunt. 1st couple of moves may offer some resistance.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Runamuck (5.7+ R)
By: Tommy G. When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Great line along the arch! It was a bit wet for a few feet towards the end of the arch, but it rained the previous day.

I got in one questionable piece (small offset) in the "dihedral" between the arch and the headwall, but would not have wanted to fall on it. When in doubt...


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Freshman Mountain : Viejos Huevos (5.9)
By: Tommy G. When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: Short, but shady in the summer after late morning. Harder than it looks, but has some great thin fingers. Access top via chimney/cave through and opening to the left or walk off to the right.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Freshman Mountain : Mirage (5.9+ PG13)
By: Tommy G. When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Good route, but the start forces you to go up the base of a tree a bit. Kind of pumpy, but there are good jams all the way and the OW up top really doesn't require OW skills. For better or worse.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Freshman Mountain : Ivy League (5.10d)
By: Tommy G. When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Short, but full on throughout. Solid yet strenuous jamming up to a fist or two up top makes this a great route. Shade starting in the late morning for those hot summer days.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Freshman Mountain
By: Tommy G. When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Mirage Wall & Yellow Pages get summer shade starting late morning through the day.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : M & Ms Plain (5.9)
By: Tommy G. When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: I've climbed this using only the crack and also by stemming over to M & Ms Peanut. I thought the stemming was a bit easier, but made it more interesting and memorable.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Beck's Bet (5.7)
By: Tommy G. When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: If you run across the ledge real fast, jump into the upper crack section, and forget the ledge ever happened, this is a great jam!


Location: International : Africa : Kenya : Photo
By: Tommy G. When: Jun 18, 2013

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Comments: Yes indeed!


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