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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Goodstone (5.11a)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After having done Rebar, there is no way this is 11a.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Shawnee Shelter : Tecumseh's Curse (5.11b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt like this was a bit of a sandbag after having done several other 5.11 aretes at the RRG. It is possible that a crucial hand has broken off since the FA at the start of the first overhanging section. I added the grade that the guide suggests since it says "if it feels hard you are doing it wrong". I must have been doing it wrong, because it felt more like 11d/11+.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Tower Rock : Dog Days (5.8+)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb would warrant more stars if the anchor situation was addressed. We ended up bailing before the top on the jug feature just before the top-out. A set of glue-in bolts could easily be placed on the bulge out left. The top-out when I tried it had nothing to grab. All the dirt was dry and ready to cut loose. You could even see where the TR's were grinding through the mud at the top. I don't mind some fun and creative adventure, but that top-out was neither.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Tower Rock : Curving Crack (5.8)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route despite many sections of bad rock. I thought the crux was the upper "chimney" as well.
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Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Boulder Problem in the Sky (5.11-) : Comment : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So glad I never fell on that. Thanks for the replacement!
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : The Klettergarden : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great color contrast.
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Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : Wild Ginger Root (5.11b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am in the group wanting more! This thing is awesome. Very well protected when the climbing is hard, and not always when it is easy. Great gear recommendation Tim. I thought the P1 first bolt was the hardest section on the route.
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Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : Toads Are Us (5.9+ PG13)
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the FA history. I will have to try the linkup of P1 to P2. I only thought those bolts were replaced, never knew they weren't part of the FA.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag (CLOSED)
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably never as long as there are dummies still ticking routes on this site.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag (CLOSED) : Ro Shampo (5.12a)
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why are people still ticking routes at a closed cliff... I have no idea why this place got shut down...
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Red Dragon : ... : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: undercling
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Location: Southern States : Newbies for Boobies II - Cl... : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: pink text is difficult to read with that background
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Middle Hawksbill : Green Wall (5.7)
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can also link this up to the Hemlock Arete for a full value pitch.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Middle Hawksbill : The Green Wave (5.10b/c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought both of the bolted sections were harder than the route's grade, but the rest was a walkup. Difficult to grade, but I still think it is a bit of a sandbag especially considering the height dependence cruxes.
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Location: AL : Sand Rock : Holiday Block : Cinco de Mayo (5.10c/d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having done this one on gear, I would say a bolt at the crux is not a bad idea. The gear placement to protect the first big roof move is in a very pebbly pocket. If this gear were to rip because of one of the pebbles dislodging, it would surely kill or seriously jack up the leader because of that giant boulder looming in the fall zone.
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Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : North Face : Catwalk : Grouse Call (5.9)
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't remember this one being particularly dirty. There are other moderate climbs in that area that may have a similar descriptions. We did this right after a rain, when you would expect it to be at its worse and it was the driest line on the wall. Several slopey moves up high that I would be very difficult if dirty. If you want to see dirtiest line on that wall, do the upper portion of Statutory Rape. Some of the finger jams are in mud. That climb has to be excavated after every rain.
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Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset South : Airy Arete (5.10a/b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are anchors above the arete. No need to use the Pig anchors.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Betty (5.10a)
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can also fit a purple mastercam in at the start. The flake below the bolt will easily take a range of hand sized gear.
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Location: Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Do you know this person? : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: www.mountainproject.com/v/107733491
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Dum Dee Dum Dum (5.10c PG13)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still the biggest sandbag on LG at 10c or just extremely condition/height dependent. I would say the best hand crack on that cliff is P2 of the Odyssey and best in the state would have to go to something at GT. Tried it again, probably sub-optimal conditions, but getting into the easy crack to the anchor was difficult. If you like your ankles, you will place #1 after the bolt before getting into the easy crack as it doesn't interfere with the highest jam. No fancy belaying will keep yo... more >>
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Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : North Face : Catwalk : X70 (5.12a)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jul 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks sf, the bolt looks nice. We tested the others unintentionally.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for posting these Nathan. Sick angle!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Southern Outcrops : Illusion Crags : Arm Forces (5.9)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A definite classic. Even though the last section may look like and off-width, it is definitely not. You can face climb on jugs below the lip and lie-back the corner very easily. It may change the route to 9+ that way, but still better than trying any off-width moves. Our 60m did not get us all the way to the ground. We could easily walk off to the climbers right (some loose rock), but this meant pulling the rope near the rope eater, which it did. Luckily another party was climbing up to pu... more >>
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Location: NC : Cathey's Creek Crag : THE CAVE : LNT (5.9)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pulling the first small roof requires some tricky gear. Tri-cams, nuts, and a 00 C3 really help to protect that move. Bring some longer slings (4') to keep the line running smooth since there are a few roofs and the route traverses almost the entire way.
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Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : BOG Man (5.11a)
By: TomCaldwell When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sam is correct. I believe it was the first bolts placed (that were known) on Grandfather Mountain at the time of the FA.
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