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Location: NC : Cedar Rock
By: TomCaldwell When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 for a good guide book. I left the NC Select book at home yesterday and just brought this new one from Mike. It was more than what I needed to have a successful day in the area. If you plan to spend a good amount of time in the Pisgah area, this guide is a must.
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Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : New Creature (5.11b/c)
By: TomCaldwell When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description seems confusing. Start just right of flake of Sibling Revelry. Head up overlaps to three bolts and some gear. Belay below the roof on finger sized gear in the crack. Belay is hanging. For the second pitch move up the crack then get into the corner out right. Stem and jam your way up the crux and move right on top of the head wall bulge below two bolts on the slab. Finish at anchors on frijolitos. Nothing larger than a #1 camalot, double fingers sized, and nuts. This route w... more >>
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Location: NC : Stone Depot
By: TomCaldwell When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out Mike Reardon's guide book Cedar Rock and Satellite Crags. It made our first trip to Stone Depot an easy one!
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Location: NC : Stone Depot : North By Northwest (5.8-)
By: TomCaldwell When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You don't need a 70m to link pitches. We did it with a 60m no problem. Thanks to Mike's book for the beta.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : North Carolina Wall : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that you Nathan?
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Mt. Olive Rock : South Central (5.11a)
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. Don't let the dirt deter you. The rock is actually pretty solid.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Talk This Way (5.10d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one kept my attention the entire time. Thin, exciting, and thought provoking. Great addition to the Bald! This one will be a classic once it gets a little more traffic. Although not the easiest for short folks.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Sly Hooks (5.10c/d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I only placed a 2 at the start of the steeper section. Felt the bolts were adequate. Great climb with amazing edges. I felt like I didn't even have to hold on, the holds just grabbed me.
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Location: GA : Tallulah Gorge : Main Wall : Backseat Delilah (5.10c/d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts were rusted, but hangers were in great shape. Another great face climb on that wall. A little dirty at the beginning, but don't let that deter you.
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Location: GA : Tallulah Gorge : Main Wall : BT Express (5.11b/c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought the crux was in the corner up high. It takes ballnutz really well also, before the finger sized pieces. The climb can also be TR'ed easily after climbing Primitive Paradox. Not a bad idea considering the R start.
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Location: AL : Temp HP40 : Crisfix (V4)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It helps to turn around, right hip facing out, match, then undercling your way out. This shouldn't be a back breaker, but just shoulder tension.
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Location: AL : Steele : Rockwa (5.10+ PG13)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was about to say this was the biggest sandbag I have been on yet, but since it is mentioned that the extension goes at 11c it all makes sense now. The guide makes the 10+ version confusing. A piece of gear in a horizontal at the start definitely takes the edge off.
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Location: AL : Steele : Dance with the Devil (5.11b/c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This will feel 12b/c at the 4th bolt if you go the wrong way, but definitely mid-11 if done correctly. Bolts 3 and 4 both made the route confusing. They are definitely several feet off the climbing line.
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Location: AL : Jamestown : Winter Wall : Winter's Respite (5.8 PG13)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely not 5.8 gear. Mary chose a ball nut as the first piece. It was bomber as well.
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Location: AL : Jamestown : Winter Wall : Hairdressers on Fire (5.11c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do people use the crack out right at the last bolt or that thin crimp that flexes off the wall?
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Flakeview Area : Scream like a Boy (5.9+)
By: TomCaldwell When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't blow the moves above the 2nd bolt. There is not a dead pine tree that is split in half just below the fall line. This will surely impale someone if they miss the 3rd bolt. I got 2 pieces of gear in at the start, but it won't keep you from hitting the ground. It is mainly there to prevent a big tumble, especially now that there is so much debris from the pine tree.
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Location: GA : Tallulah Gorge : Main Wall : Autumn Gold (5.11b/c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Feb 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I figured it was you who did the updating. Those bolts were way too new to be from Stegg in the 90's. Thanks for the update there and else where in the gorge.
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Location: GA : Currahee Mountain : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can rotate the photo's on this site. Just go to edit photo when your logged in.
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Location: Trad Climbing : Falling on gear success sto... : Post : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would! Probably should have used Red Metolius or red tri-cam here instead of .5.
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Location: nbrown : Climbing and stuff : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: How do you get all these pictures when your rope soloing? Does Paco have a helmet cam?
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Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Boulder Problem in the Sky (5.11-)
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for this update and all the others sf. I always considered that crux a no-fall.
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Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : Caught Up in the Air (5.11a)
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2 is a one-move wonder. The rest of that pitch is no harder than 5.9. Great overall route. A 70m will get you down in two raps.
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Location: GA : Tallulah Gorge : Main Wall : Punk Wave (5.10a)
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Punk Wave now has some new bolts at the top of P1. It was refreshing seeing those and not the "rat's nest". I am assuming the thanks goes to sf, thanks buddy! On another note, watch for bird pooh on the P1 slab, there is a lot of it.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : Ice Cream Direct (5.12c PG13) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice onsight!
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Aerospace Cadet (5.10d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely not my style. Felt sandbagged and very dirty, but the gear was great. I think the taller you are, the easier it is to do the crux bulge moves. Some heady moves with some bad fall potential at the start of P2. The rest was very well protected. Felt like trying to wrestle a hippo.
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