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Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.


Member Since: Jun 2, 2009
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 205
Total Points: 2,536
Last Year: 278
Last 30 Days: 8
36 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has TomCaldwell been climbing?










Contributions


All 2041 | Routes 90 | Areas 11 | Photos 246 | Page Improvements | Comments 243 | Posts 533 | Stars 858 | Ratings 60
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Stephen F : Climbing : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: Where is this? TR, SC?


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Airlie Gardens (5.9)
By: TomCaldwell When: 9 hours ago

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Comments: Stuart, try the right variation start. It is much more well protected and moderate. It will take a lot of the sting out of that direct start runout.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Extra Crimpy Chicken (5.11d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: There are quicklinks and rap rings on the anchor now. I know that double TCU's are recommended, but some of those slots pod in the back. It is better to place sideways nuts instead so they bite on the top and bottom of the eyebrows. Less chance to walk after moving past the placement. I would also recommend one larger piece like pink tricam or .5 C4 after the second bolt, but nothing larger.


Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : Petrified Cedar (5.11b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Don't fall above the bolts, especially not the headwall one. The angle of the slab below might wreck you. Still worth doing because of the great face climbing.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Aunt Jemima (5.11)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Who cares who sent this thing first, this climb sucks. It barely deviates from shredded. When it does, it is chossy, dirty, and poorly protected. The bolt is in the most ridiculous spot. Right when the climbing is easy, you get a bolt. How about you move the bolt 15 feet down where it actually matters, because the flake can break. This seems like a case of someone trying squeeze one in at cereal wall.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : North Face : Catwalk
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: I added some better approach beta with pictures of the complicated turns. This place deserves more traffic. It is the coolest summer temps in the lower Blue Ridge. Many ultra-classic vertical to slightly overhanging technical crimp fests. There are also some decent corner systems. The approach starts just to the right of the pit toilets. Go down the hill and the trail turns hard right. Follow this for 15 minutes to the log crossing. Shortly after the log crossing the trail crosses a creek and go... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Invisibility Lessons (5.9) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: There is a piece between her legs that she is clipped into. My guess is that it was causing drag or something so she unclipped the lower one and couldn't retrieve the cam before moving higher.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : ... : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: I like the low lighting. It adds to the drama of the route.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : The Vaporizer (5.12b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: This is one of the most cleanest and aesthetic face climbs at Whitesides. Solid rock, gear, and movement. This is probably my favorite single pitch at Whitesides and almost anywhere. Easily headpointed from the rap of Boulder Problem, but it deserves to be led.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Traditions (5.11c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: This climb was updated recently. All bolts are in great shape or brand new. Thanks Frost and Co. None of the original FA chopped bolts were restored. So this was a 1 for 1 back to it's most recent state. The P3 anchors had a bolt added to the belay. It would have been nice to see the first bolt on P1 restored, or at least cored out for a removable bolt placement. The crux pitch belay doesn't need anchors, there are plenty of gear anchors around that ledge.

Used Andrew's beta for P3, going direc... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : Phantom of the Opera (5.11c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Rp's aren't mandatory. They may contour feature better, but a stopper worked just fine. I am not sure I would take anything bigger than .75 or black metolius, but have doubles in that size.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : King of Kings (5.11d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I don't own the 00, but a 3 ballnut worked very well here. Hard to see from below, but the placement is much deeper. The gold ballnut is rated to 8kN, which makes you really happy for that last section. Also got a tricam in the horizontal before.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : King of Kings (5.11d) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: Like a boss!


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : North Face : Catwalk : pussyfootin' (5.11)
By: TomCaldwell When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Great addition! I really liked this route. The first 3 bolts are sustained and exciting. The upper section had great position and movement. The final moves to the anchor are wild, especially if you don't have a second #1. I had purple tricam, which was okay.


Location: South Carolina : Table Rock : Watergroove Wall : Dry Line (5.9 PG13)
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Exactly what Nathan said. I took the approach that the NC Select guide does for a place like Stone Mtn. NC when referring to an all-bolt protected line. Once you clip the first bolt on most of these routes, you should start to feel a lot more comfortable. Some of these you can also pre-clip, but you should want to clip normally if you plan on climbing at TR frequently.


Location: AL : Steele : Sugar Magnolia (5.8)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: My description is for a direct start that avoids unneccesarily breaking the climb into two pitches. The more well protected start in the left corner was dirty looking and would result in drag if linking. The rap off monopoly was the easiest since it required one rope and SM leads that way.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Route Of The Living Dead (5.10+)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: Great climb! I would skip the last pitch. It is very dirty.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bronaugh Wall : Like A Turtle (5.11b) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Your correct. There is a big turtle head right after half way. I think you can cop a good rest on it as well.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress : Backdoor Man (5.12a)
By: TomCaldwell When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: 4 star movement, 1 star rock quality.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Torture Machine Area : Tangerine Dream (5.10d) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: I was commenting on the batman logo. Thanks for the insult though.


Location: Chris Lorimer : Photos : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Not my preferred method of aid, but you make it look good.


Location: South Carolina : Table Rock
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the trail head update.


Location: South Carolina : Table Rock
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: I believe new route development is not allowed in case anyone was wondering why FA info has been excluded.


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Hungry for Heaven (5.10d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: I didn't find the gear at the start to be that difficult. It tapers down, which means large nut, pink/red tri-cam, or .5 camalot. I went with the .5 and still had plenty of space for the upper jam right above the roof. The route is hard, more like an 11.


Location: Nevada : Popcorn : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Is that some massive caulk gun? Wtf?


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