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Rock Climbing Photo: Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step...


Member Since: Jun 2, 2009
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 226
Total Points: 2,716
Last Year: 51
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2391 | Routes 96 | Areas 11 | Photos 263 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 273 | Posts 698 | Stars 983 | Ratings 66
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Middle Hawksbill : Hemlock Arete (5.10+)
By: TomCaldwell When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I have a couple of partners in the low 5' range. This makes the clip at the first bulge kind of tough, and you could get jacked up if you pump out and miss it. There is a piece that can be clipped right at head level. I will take any guessing out of it and say we used a red and black metolius (tight/small hands range), which is between .5 and 1 camalot. Anyone who doesn't send because they carry a few extra cams needs to get some more fitness and come back... more >>


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: Sorry, I just saw your comment. I sent you a message.


Location: NC : Pickens Nose : Rock House Knob : Upper Deck (roof crack) (5.11) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Jul 18, 2016

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Comments: Cool little addition.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Boulder Problem in the Sky (5.11-)
By: TomCaldwell When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: P2 now has an anchor of 1/2" SS with rings. They were placed on the ledge again, so pulling the rope is still difficult, but still better than the mank and tat. The ideal place would have been on the wall above. It looks like the next pitch sprouted a 1/2" protection bolt right off the ledge. Hopefully this was all done with approval. Anyone know about it?


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Whippin' Boy (5.11d)
By: TomCaldwell When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: You guys and your hybrids. The third pitch took tri-cams nicely instead of hybrids. A couple of the spots hybrids will be more secure, but not mandatory. The second pitch could use an update on the fixed hardware. Everything was rusted. The loose bolt on the crux is a hopeless cause. The way the directional is from the next bolt, it will never stay tight. The crux pitch was fun. Like everyone has said, they are all jugs at the last two bolts. Just keep wandering to stay on them. Derek your nut h... more >>


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Flapping.../Nuclear arms ar... : Sugaree (5.10a PG13)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: I believe Nathan and Tim updated the hardware at the top when they completed another route that finishes through here. I don't remember the anchor being particularly bad.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 7, 2015

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Comments: There is a solid tree you can rap after you come out of the first decent gully before shimmying down the tree. It is only a single rope rappel and will save you from that annoying wet decent (or sometimes icy).


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: Alfonso, it is a paved public road.


Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : Common Ground (5.11c/d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch with deceptive movement. Good friction helps. Lots of sloping eyebrows and crimps. Watch for the suspect flake before reaching the first bolt.


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : The Arena (5.11a/b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: There is good gear just left of the horn, "the TCU placement" the guide suggests. I don't think you would deck falling onto that piece. Bring a few larger pieces to protect the first bit of crack at the crux and the slab above. The crack size is pretty easy to see from the ground.


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Prisoners of Zenda (5.11b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: A scary thought to try and lead this thing. I would suggest sussing out the gear and maybe even preplacing some of it. There are a few sections where you could hit the slab below.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Genocide Cave : ... : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: Stud! Nice climbing harness brah!


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Catholic School Girls Direc... (5.11- R)
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Great climb, with a short, but tricky crux. P1's bolt is new (thanks), the crux pitch pin and bolts are not. I thought the gear beta was very accurate. I carried the tri-cams in those sizes with a #2 camalot. I also found several good nut placements and many gear placements on P4. Finding the exit through the bushes to the tourist trail was tricky in the dark. We ended up going slightly right at the end and pushed through some bush. The route wasn't as dirty and lichen covered as I thought... more >>


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: This is a great picture. It would be great to add the remaining rock climbing trails. There is a short trail to the boulder problem area, and two extra trails to get to the Devil's Courthouse.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: There is some major trail construction happening on the hikers trail. The set of stone stairs just shortly after you leave the parking lot are closed all the way to the summit. The trail is still passable despite the construction. This is the only means to the descent of the Southeast Face and Boulder Problem areas.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Waverly Waster (5.12a R)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: There is a trick to clipping the last hanging draw. Move past it to the better hand and clip. Don't skip it. Thanks Eric!


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Boulder Problem in the Sky (5.11-)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: P1 now has a new two bolt anchor. Thanks for the upgrade!


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Main Wall : Anegada Passage (5.10+)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Cool story behind the route name! Thanks for adding some of the history.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : S.O.S. (5.10b)
By: TomCaldwell When: May 16, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the history on the route. Sounds like there were some good times developing this area.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Chaos Out of Control (5.10c) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Kyle is a great photographer. Check out his blog on his bluewallphotography site. Many of the pictures in the Cedar Rock guide are his as well. His work just keeps getting better. I feel like he is one of the few photographers capturing climbing with the landscape. It adds so much to the image.


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Patrick's Point State Park : Pacific Ocean Cliff : 5.10b Toprope (5.10b) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Bomber! Were these found in a ship wreck?


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Left of main southeast face
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: These routes are all great single pitch lines. If you can overlook the dirty sections, this is one of the best areas at Whitesides. They can all be climbed anytime of year. A brush can be helpful if any of the difficult sections or slopers need cleaning. Most of the hardware is new and in great condition. Expect solitude and great views of the main face of Whitesides.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Bat Shit Crazy (5.10+)
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: Fun addition to the area. I thought the difficult climbing was over after the bolt. It didn't feel as sustained as other 10+'s. Lots of great stances, hand holds, and gear. The exposure was really good too! I wish the anchor was better or at least in a better spot. The hanging belay off of tat and a few rusted pieces was not inspiring. It seems like very little attention was paid to good anchor setups on the entire area. I am all for a some SS cable to replace tat and some bolts with rings to re... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Looking Glass Boulders : Comment : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: But I needed a place to sit! Hopefully this is the work of tourons.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Just Another Pretty Face (5.10b/c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: This is a great addition to Shortoff. Crimpers delight! I enjoyed the technical thin edges and feet. We did the approach from the bottom. It is only a short distance past Construction Job. It was also cold enough that the vegetation hadn't grown back, so it was an easy bushwack. We found the start to be at a short/shallow right-facing dihedral. It leads you right up to the pod for that nut before the first bolt. Getting to the first bolt will be exciting if this climbing is near your limit. We d... more >>


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