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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Western Wall Area : ... : Pangborn (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Dave - AHG is significantly harder. I thought that Ranger Ron might even be harder than Pangborn, since there's more sustained climbing.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : North Dome : South Face Route (5.7)
By: Tom Fralich When: Oct 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found that the key to the step-across on Pitch 3 is to AVOID the undercling in the hole. It is very awkward to stand up under the bulge using this undercling and the fall potential is bad. Instead, climb up a bit higher to the left of the ledge and place an obvious #3 Camalot, then step across to the ledge with a right foot in the area where the hole is. It's balancy, but far less awkward and with much better pro.
Also, on the last pitch, I wasn't able to find any 5.5 slab climbing, eve... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Canyon : Windy Pk, East Face : Blockade Runner (5.8 PG13)
By: Tom Fralich When: May 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route had great gear from bottom to top...definitely not PG-13 or R, IMHO. It's a very cool-looking line with fun moves that are easy for the grade.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Refried Brains (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Apr 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts on Pitch 5 (Brock guide) are in pretty bad shape. Most are 1/4 inch and some are very badly rusted. One even looked to have a cracked hanger. Climb very carefully, especially if linking from Pitch 4 with rope drag.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : The Case Face : Head Case (5.8)
By: Tom Fralich When: Nov 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route has four bolts, but is well protected by slinging a horn/plate between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and then a 0.3 Camalot or Green Alien in a horizontal above the last bolt.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : The Case Face : Hard Case (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Nov 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty hard for Red Rocks 5.9. The new red Brock guidebook rates it at 5.10a. The biggest gear needed is a #3 Camalot...there's nowhere to place a #4. Really fun route with great gear. A bit awkward, but not too bad.
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