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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : No Laughing Matter (5.10-)
By: tom donnelly When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or rap back to ledge with one rope - 100 feet, and then rap Bush Pilots.
It looked like there might be some hazard of getting your rope stuck if you try the full 2 rope rappel.
You can also approach this route from Bush Pilots.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Bush Pilots (5.10a R)
By: tom donnelly When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux is at bottem & has good pro & fun moves. The middle is easy & a bit runout. The rap is off a triple bush at the top. One of the 3 bushes is completely dead as of 11/2009.
The route No Laughing Matter starts 20 feet right of the anchor.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Cave Area : Alcoa (5.11c)
By: tom donnelly When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've only done the dyno,
but I think people have managed to continue to lieback up the arete further up.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation (5.9)
By: tom donnelly When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone did also fall on the little tree.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Rocky Horror (5.10)
By: tom donnelly When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun for about 15 feet of very overhanging lieback. 5.10+ if you're tall. Easier if you're short so you can scrunch your feet up.
One of the bolts on top is very old.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : Photo
By: tom donnelly When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a good toprope line or two 15-20 feet right of Sardonic Lady. Go straight up where the dotted line slants up right. Several variations all good. We belayed from above since it's over 100' long. Another toprope line is to start near Babies on Fire and go up and left, crossing Stonewall Squeeze up high.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Stonewall Peak : Upper Tier : The Sardonic Lady (5.10 R)
By: tom donnelly When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a broken off piton 2/3 of the way up.
If that were replaced with a good bolt, it wouldn't be runout.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Great Burrito
By: tom donnelly When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can "carefully" rap with one 60m rope.
You have to stop on the ledge next to the big rotten chimney. This ledge is 10 feet left and 6 feet higher than the start of Kemosabe & Tonto, Just before you run out of rope and are about to slip off the ends, your feet will hit the ledge. This won't allow a toprope since the ends of the rope do not reach the cruxy start of Kemosabe.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Billboard Buttress : The Reverend (5.8)
By: tom donnelly When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: old bolts on top as of 11/2008, can use medium cams to back up.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Great Burrito : Learn Quick or Die (5.9)
By: tom donnelly When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: bolts are still old as of 11/2008.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Great Burrito : Desperado (5.10a)
By: tom donnelly When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: good route. Old bolt as of 11/2008, but not critical.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Corona/Dos Equis Wall : Chihuahua (5.10b/c)
By: tom donnelly When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. You can also place a 1" cam after the first bolt.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Pistol Whipped Wall : The Peacemaker (5.11a)
By: tom donnelly When: Aug 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes, a hold broke just over the roof.
In June 2007 it was an awesome 11a route.
By Aug 2007 there was now a kinda nasty harder move added.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Cats Meow (5.8 R)
By: tom donnelly When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion the face move at the start is the crux and the pro is somewhat questionable.
It's about 95 feet to a good belay where you can toprope some other routes.
Great rock.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Pass Time (5.9)
By: tom donnelly When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As David said, Vogel's topo is slightly off at the start. Climb the first 15 feet of Capt Hook and then step right.
The rap at the top is 95 feet, not 130.
Good route!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Cow Rock : Milkman (aka Reach For A Pe... (5.10a)
By: tom donnelly When: Dec 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: old bolts
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Cow Rock : Hollywood And Bovine (5.10d)
By: tom donnelly When: Dec 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux seemed like 10d, and harder than that if you are 5'8" or under. A couple of small cams will fit along the way.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : King Otto's Castle : Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.10c)
By: tom donnelly When: Dec 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I placed a nut just above the old 4th bolt to back it up,
and a few other cams along the way. Good climb!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Palmreader Wall : Mystic Teflon (5.10c)
By: tom donnelly When: Dec 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. You can place some gear before starting and stepping off the approach boulder. The upper crux seemed hard to me (10d+)
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Cornered (5.10d)
By: tom donnelly When: Oct 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is another fun arete toprope just left of Cornered.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Keller Peak
By: tom donnelly When: Sep 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a new trail built in 2005 called the Exploration Trail on Keller Peak that is useful for some of the crags.
See
http://books.google.com/books?id=AbY0eu4hGGQC&pg=PA70&lpg=PA>>>>>
http://www.lakearrowheadnews.com/children's_forest.htm
Also most of the campsites were renumbered in 2005, so go by their location, not by number. In general, most of the site numbers decreased by ONE.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Human Fright (5.10a)
By: tom donnelly When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are rap rings on slings on a small tree at the top of P2, so you can rap with an approx 56m rope to the rap anchor at the top of P1.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Winter Solstice (5.11c PG13)
By: tom donnelly When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Originally the route was 11a, back when I lead it.
Many people toprope it now that there are convenience anchors at the top.
This results in a lot of feeble attempts with lots of slipping by people who are not up for the lead.
Which results in much faster polishing of the holds than would have happened without the convenience anchors, so now it's quite a bit harder.
Which results in even more people not wanting to lead it.
Me for instance.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Copenhagen Wall
By: tom donnelly When: May 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: new Copenhagen routes
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=37706>>>>>
topic id 377061
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Location: International : Thailand : Updated Rebolting info for ...
By: tom donnelly When: Feb 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: What do you make of this info ? posted at
http://climbargolis.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm
Typical test results.
Taken from „Axiale Auspressversuche bei Fortbildungen der Sicherheitsforschung in Donautal und in Frankenjura 1“. Deutscher Alpenverein. (available as pdf) and test result obtained by myself and collegues.
...
Ushba Bolt (Buhler type glue-in developed for Thailand to overcome the corrosion problems)
Material. Titanium:10mm dia. 5 tests. 9kN, 9kN, 10kN (all broke at eye weld), 24kN,... more >>
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