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Contributions
| All (58) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (6) | Posts (52) | Stars | Ratings | |
Contributed Comments | | |
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Made In The Shade (5.9-) By: Tom Pierce When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: Heads Up! My buddy and I climbed this today and concur it's a fun route, but as he was working up the very first moves he pulled on the hanging flake mentioned in the route intro above and a big chunk popped off. We were pretty surprised since the piece was probably 3-4" thick, it looked pretty beefy up to that point. The heads up is that on closer inspection the lower part of the flake looks a bit rotten and I suspect it also could pop off resulting in a potentially nasty ground fall on lead. J... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b) By: Tom Pierce When: Jun 26, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: I'm considering this route for my annual big climb/road trip. I've read the stuff about this route online, the Supertopo section, etc. I'm also comfortable at this level on trad granite. But details, details...Anyone have any tips re: Gear? Anything particularly useful, esp. something to double up on, etc? Any quirks on routefinding? Are the pitches fair for the grade or sandbags? Any other tips for this route? Thanks.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Ride The Snake (5.9) By: Tom Pierce When: Jun 13, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: We did this route today and I thought it was great! WELL worth doing, a real adventure. Here's some info for the difficulties as they are presented: (1) The tyrolean across the creek is in place (as of 6/13/06) and it's very robust, a taut steel cable. A pulley is recommended as it'll probably chew up a biner, it certainly did a number on our REI pulleys with nylon wheels. (2) Unlike the comment on the main Mission Wall page, I saw no evidence of ticks. Nonetheless, I sprayed some bug juice o... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Rattle and Scream (5.10a) By: Tom Pierce When: Jun 7, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: I climbed this recently and unlike some really liked it; interesting moves and I had no problem locating bolts or anchors. It's a bit more generously bolted than other run out Red Slab climbs, if that's any consolation. I thought the rock quality was OK, but there was one dark rock very near the anchors that was cracked and might be unstable. I was able to climb and anchor without using it but beware.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Unknown (5.9+) By: Tom Pierce When: Jun 7, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: I did this pitch recently and found it well worth the time, a far better start than the normal first pitch of the 5.7 Lover's Leap route, albeit much harder. It's almost a high angle slab, i.e. footwork is key. I'll also echo the comment above about gear; this is a bolt-protected route, not a sport climb, so a couple of micro-cams might be good. Others used Aliens, I used 2 Metolius 00 cams, which seemed to fit well below the roof and again just before topping out. From the belay it's ... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Arapahoe Peaks : Skywalker Couloir By: Tom Pierce When: Jun 4, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: We climbed this route today (6/4/2006) and found pretty good conditions; hard snow early on but a bit soft and slushy in spots at 10AM at the top (it was 93 F in Denver and fairly warm there as well). It's a great route in a beautiful location, well worth doing. I was under the impression, however, that the Princess Leia variation was supposed to be near a 70 degree angle at the top, but I seriously doubt it ever was more than 55-60 and that was in a short section. The only way I could... more >>
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