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Member Since: Apr 18, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 61 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 6 | Posts 55 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Made In The Shade (5.9-)
By: Tom Pierce When: Aug 25, 2009

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Comments: Heads Up! My buddy and I climbed this today and concur it's a fun route, but as he was working up the very first moves he pulled on the hanging flake mentioned in the route intro above and a big chunk popped off. We were pretty surprised since the piece was probably 3-4" thick, it looked pretty beefy up to that point. The heads up is that on closer inspection the lower part of the flake looks a bit rotten and I suspect it also could pop off resulting in a potentially nasty ground fall on lead. J... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Tom Pierce When: Jun 26, 2006

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Comments: I'm considering this route for my annual big climb/road trip. I've read the stuff about this route online, the Supertopo section, etc. I'm also comfortable at this level on trad granite. But details, details...Anyone have any tips re: Gear? Anything particularly useful, esp. something to double up on, etc? Any quirks on routefinding? Are the pitches fair for the grade or sandbags? Any other tips for this route? Thanks.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Ride The Snake (5.9)
By: Tom Pierce When: Jun 13, 2006

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Comments: We did this route today and I thought it was great! WELL worth doing, a real adventure. Here's some info for the difficulties as they are presented:

(1) The tyrolean across the creek is in place (as of 6/13/06) and it's very robust, a taut steel cable. A pulley is recommended as it'll probably chew up a biner, it certainly did a number on our REI pulleys with nylon wheels.
(2) Unlike the comment on the main Mission Wall page, I saw no evidence of ticks. Nonetheless, I sprayed some bug juice o... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Rattle and Scream (5.10a)
By: Tom Pierce When: Jun 7, 2006

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Comments: I climbed this recently and unlike some really liked it; interesting moves and I had no problem locating bolts or anchors. It's a bit more generously bolted than other run out Red Slab climbs, if that's any consolation. I thought the rock quality was OK, but there was one dark rock very near the anchors that was cracked and might be unstable. I was able to climb and anchor without using it but beware.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Unknown (5.9+)
By: Tom Pierce When: Jun 7, 2006

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Comments: I did this pitch recently and found it well worth the time, a far better start than the normal first pitch of the 5.7 Lover's Leap route, albeit much harder. It's almost a high angle slab, i.e. footwork is key. I'll also echo the comment above about gear; this is a bolt-protected route, not a sport climb, so a couple of micro-cams might be good. Others used Aliens, I used 2 Metolius 00 cams, which seemed to fit well below the roof and again just before topping out. From the belay it's ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Arapahoe Peaks : Skywalker Couloir
By: Tom Pierce When: Jun 4, 2006

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Comments: We climbed this route today (6/4/2006) and found pretty good conditions; hard snow early on but a bit soft and slushy in spots at 10AM at the top (it was 93 F in Denver and fairly warm there as well). It's a great route in a beautiful location, well worth doing. I was under the impression, however, that the Princess Leia variation was supposed to be near a 70 degree angle at the top, but I seriously doubt it ever was more than 55-60 and that was in a short section. The only way I could... more >>