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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Arch Rock Route (5.8)
By: Tom Johnson When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is another variation on the first pitch that follows a left facing dihedral about 30 ft right of the usual hand crack. It's super fun, although quite short. Protects well and probably goes at easy 5.7. Also, I didn't see the fixed nut referred to in the description. Be ready for a bit of squeeze chimney near the top of the second pitch, or else duck out left onto slab. Great route.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Obscura Direct (5.7 X)
By: Tom Johnson When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Darren that the run-out is pretty straightforward. If you've done other South Platte run out slab you'll know what to expect. The move over the roof is pretty stiff for 5.7, but it's not terrible. Just power up and over on a jug and get a mantle to get your feet on up. Decent route.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : Butler Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Tom Johnson When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first lead and I found it awkward and a little sketchy with some of the loose rock (also lacked the two bolt anchor). Maybe it's a little cleaner now (climbed in early 07). Stick with the much more fun moderate sport around.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
By: Tom Johnson When: Aug 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that this route could/should be done in two pitches. It is straight enough that rope drag isn't much of an issue. It is a bit intimidating for a new 5.7 trad leader!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: Tom Johnson When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun route. Would have to disagree with Floridaputz about the reach. I'm 5'8" and I struggled to get it! Still doable, but it takes a bit more creativity to stand up high enough. And if you're used to sandstone, tapping on all those hollow flakes will scare the crap out of you.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Coyote Wall : Coyote Verde (5.8)
By: Tom Johnson When: Jul 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally I felt this route was harder than the other 5.8s at RRC. Still, some good freaky-friction.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : Unknown Face Route (5.8-)
By: Tom Johnson When: Jul 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I personally find this to be the hardest route (besides the .12) at Gallows edge. The sequence is not entirely obvious, and the steepness may get you a bit pumped if you're out of shape. Still, a pretty decent route.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : 99 Red Balloons (5.8)
By: Tom Johnson When: Jul 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite route at Gallows. Go straight up at the top. It's well-protected and super fun.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : The Pit : Unnamed (5.7)
By: Tom Johnson When: Jul 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun little route. Be careful if you're soloing as the crux comes right near the top.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Coyote Wall : Pete's Classic Corner (5.8)
By: Tom Johnson When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of fun. Would've been a three-star if there weren't so many loose flakes. Check those holds. Tiny run-out near the top adds a bit of spice.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Styx
By: Tom Johnson When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great little wall for some easy trad. Remember a rope bag or ground cloth; super sandy at the base.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Styx : Minion (5.7 PG13)
By: Tom Johnson When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route! Crux moving past the yucca high up; this felt harder than 5.7, but there are lots of options, and I probably chose poorly.
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