Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Bruja's Brew (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also found P2 to be somewhat spicy. I traversed to the Black Magic anchor at the end of the pitch...seemed like a better stance and let the rope run more smoothly on the traverse of P3. P1 is excellent and worth doing on its own (double-rope rap from bolts).
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : One-Armed Bandit (5.7)
By: Tom Fralich When: Dec 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not as loose or runout as SuperTopo suggests. Definitely not as good as Olive Oil, but a worthwhile moderate route, especially in winter, with good sun exposure, a fast approach and descent, and great belay ledges. Leave the #6 at home. This one climbs pretty easy for 5.7.
|
Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall West : Circus Circus (5.8)
By: Tom Fralich When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No need to be afraid of this one. A little more involved than most T-Wall routes with the traverse and gear belay, but the gear is all there through the entire route. Should pose no problems for the experienced 5.8 trad climber.
|
Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall West : Path of the Misfits (5.8)
By: Tom Fralich When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a worthwhile route. Needs a bit more traffic to clean it up.
|
Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall West : Where Lizards Go to Die (5.10a)
By: Tom Fralich When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way more rests than it would appear from the ground and the gear is great.
|
Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall
By: Tom Fralich When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook indicates that there's another trail that accesses the western portion of the wall, between Cibola and Vahalla. We were not able to find any trail after several passes in the car and ended up approaching from the usual Paradise Falls trail. We also attempted to find the alternate route on the way out and ended up bushwacking back to the road (although there were some cairns and ribbons on trees, there was no trail).
|
Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall West : Little Steps (5.7)
By: Tom Fralich When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty good route, but not as high quality as the classic 5.7's at the other end of the cliff. Worth doing if in the area, but not a destination climb. Also, getting to the anchor involves clawing your way up 30 ft of loose, scrubby terrain.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Splitting Hares (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree, great route. And the ability to TR the second pitch of Next Century makes it even better.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the first two pitches of Mayday Malefactor to Sweet Thin and it's a great link-up. It's four stars no matter how you start it, but for those who've already done Armatron, Mayday is a great way to cover some new terrain and adds a bit more 5.9 climbing. I had two #3's, one #3.5, one #4, and one #5 and was pretty happy.
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : West Face (5.10a)
By: Tom Fralich When: Aug 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! Easy for the grade and very well protected.
|
Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Jun 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harder and not as good as Whodunit. Placing gear on the crux pitch is definitely strenuous.
|
Location: ID : City of Rocks : Creekside : The Ramp (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Jun 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that this one is 5.7.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Magic Triangle (5.9 R)
By: Tom Fralich When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Three stars for the first 2 pitches. Definitely worth doing if in the area. Rap with a single 60m rope back down the route. I wanted to link these pitches to the upper pitches of Masquerade, but this ended up being more involved than it appeared.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Rawlpindi (5.7)
By: Tom Fralich When: Feb 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb deserves way more attention and is one of the better 5.7 multi-pitch climbs in RR. The face climbing pitch is jsut spooky enough to be really exciting without being dangerous. Not a good choice for a new 5.7 leader though.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : The Ledger Crags : The Ledger (5.7)
By: Tom Fralich When: Feb 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb with a quick approach. Rapped with a single 60m rope. Agree that the stemming on P3 is harder than 5.6-5.7 and very height dependent. My wife is 5'4" and wasn't able to stem, which made it look more like 5.9.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Pops Goes Hawaiian (5.7 R)
By: Tom Fralich When: Jan 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found plenty of gear after the bolt. Great route on an interesting dike. Moves to the bolt are on positive holds and not stressful for the confident 5.7-5.8 leader.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Room To Shroom Area : Room To Shroom (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Jan 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well deserving of its classic status. Great rock, textbook jams, and no crowds. Got a #2 Ballnut on the traverse, but it really is quite easy. Approach is not bad.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : OZ Area : OZ : The Hawk Hatchery : Hawk's Nest (5.7)
By: Tom Fralich When: Jan 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 12/31/11 there are plenty of bees. I was able to clip the anchor without offending them, but topping out was out of the question.
|
Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : The Burn (5.8)
By: Tom Fralich When: Nov 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad I didn't read the comments here before I got on this one. While I agree that this is on the harder end of 5.8, it is NOT a dangerous route. The move over the small roof is committing, but can be protected well with a blue Alien up high. I placed it, then downclimbed and rested before moving on. The crux comes in the thin cracks above where gear can be placed almost anywhere.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Brother : Absolutely Free, Center (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Oct 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both the approach and descent were more straightforward than expected. We roped up for the approach and reached the start in 1.5 pitches. I found the splitter crack pretty hard...wish I had smaller hands. Definitely take a #5 for P3.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Brother : Positively 4th Street (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Oct 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb with bomber pro and very easy access, literally 5 min from the car. I can't believe this isn't more popular.
|
Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock : Karen Crack (5.8)
By: Tom Fralich When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Four stars for setting and fun juggy climbing. A good lead if passing through the area.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : North Ridge (Easy 5th) : Photo
By: Tom Fralich When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to see that the backpack had enough sense to wear a helmet.
|
Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : North Ridge (5.4)
By: Tom Fralich When: Aug 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is presented by Croft as something to do when "the altitude is bugging you or you're too tired or hung over..." I completely disagree. We stayed almost entirely on the crest and there were many sections of 5th class climbing. The descent is also not straightforward. We met another party on their way out who had to bivy at 2AM due to problems finding the descent. This route is a big day, even if you short-cut around some of the towers.
|
Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Black September (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Jul 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't find the start that hard, but I like fingers. I thought the moves through the wide part near the top were significantly harder...and probably harder than 5.9.
|
RSS Feed
