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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Foundry, The : Son Volt Arete (5.12-)
By: toddgordon When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: RobM...years ago, I put in an anchor on this climb, top roped it (hang-dog style), and put in the first bolt on the lead with a hand drill. I intended on finishing the route, but after top roping it and seeing it was too much route for me, I lost interest. Tony and Murf finished bolting it, and sent it;...but I dont' think they were all that excited about it;...they were just finishing off a route I started, satisfying their curiousities, and having a day at the crags.....(... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Stairway To Kevin (5.8)
By: toddgordon When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite possible (Great Epperson shot too!)...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Vernal Walls : Waltzing Wern (5.11a)
By: toddgordon When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Dee Eee......does everything have to be diamonds and teflon?....alittle Josh loose rock is good for you;...keep you on your toes, off the plastic, and give you a taste of real climbing....sac up, hike for more than 15 min., and give Big Moe, The Mel Cracks, and The Beaver a break.....and when you hike up to these unpolished "classics"...maybe you might find your OWN pile to spray about....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outer Mongolia : Siberia : George's Route (aka Binder) (5.8)
By: toddgordon When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now a FP on the ledge, so there is something to clip before heading up to the last to bolts on the final headwall.....it's a wee bit hidden in an overlap, but still one should see it;....It's about a 1 1/2 in. big angle piton....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Super Slab : Dimpled Chad (5.10c)
By: toddgordon When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA. Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Mark Synek,
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Super Slab : Mike Hunt (5.9+)
By: toddgordon When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack takes tcu's and the pro is good.....there are one or two fixed pins on the route too......It's a cool climb.....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Super Slab : Cactus Challenge (5.8)
By: toddgordon When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Todd Gordon, Jesse, Tucker Tech, Tim Pinar, Brett Pinar. We rated the climb 5.7, but 5.8 is close enough for me......(great shot of the slab and routes, Bryan....)
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Split Dome : Bumpy (5.8)
By: toddgordon When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bruce;....the one chimney was plenty enough for me....the spelunking way was probably way cool......your motivation for the double chimney experience is impressive!........(Or is it just plain twisted?....)...Cheers! Todd
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Split Dome : Bumpy (5.8)
By: toddgordon When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bumpy *, 5.8+/5.9
This is the original "Bumpy" route. It is located just right of Over bolted Rock. It is easily seen from Split Rocks parking (look right). Follow "bumps" past 4 bolts (or fixed angles in holes, to a 2 bolt anchor). Walk off to the right, down a ramp in a chimney.
Gynogroove , 5.6
Chimney left of Bumpy. FA T. Tech, B. Povolny, T. Gordon Feb., 03
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Location: AZ : Navajolands : Central Reservation Climbs : The Pope (Primal Yawn ) (5.10 A3+) : Photo
By: toddgordon When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's not a purse, Larry;...it's a manbag........(not to be confused with a gymbag......)
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Location: AZ : Navajolands
By: toddgordon When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quentin;.....great to read your post! Maybe after reading your message, climbers won't be so afraid of guys like you, and perhaps even contact you for some of the planets most awesome climbing adventures and opportunities....it's tough to find climbing partners out there..it's not Boulder Colorado or Los Angeles with thousands of climbers and rock gyms to boot. I'd be honored to rope up with you.....It's unfortunate about the legal restrictions, and the fears and funkiness that accom... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Inauguron Dome
By: toddgordon When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the right side of this dome is the excellent Tony Carbone (5.10b). It's 2 pitches and not R rated. First pitch has bolts, and the 2nd pitch goes past a bolt or 2 then up a 5.8 crack.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: toddgordon When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Brian;.
(But respect Eyes of Greens comment....and enjoy her comments, what she has to say, and her pics.....)...I enjoy the walkoff, and have never rapped the route in the many times I've done the climb.......If you walk off to the left, you get to go through the cool tunnel section, which is fun. Rapping the route always seemed funny to me......and you miss out on the last 150 feet of scrambling to the top of the formation.......
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - E. ... : Pump Up The Volume (5.11a)
By: toddgordon When: Mar 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally, I think this climb sucks;..the moves are too hard, there are hardly any holds on the climb, bolts hard to clip;.....it's pathetically short, too close to the road......I can go on and on.....whoever did the FA is a moron;........(oops....that would be me.....so sorry......).....Best do something else;...really.....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Negropolis Hillside : The Negropolis : Tunnel of Love (5.7)
By: toddgordon When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's not a bomb...please;...it's just a regular generic climb......does not deserve the bomb though.....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mtn. : My Balls feel like a Pair o... (5.9)
By: toddgordon When: Feb 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Richard Adler, who worked at Nomad's climbing shop, is the guy showing up late.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Center Crag : Vertical Corrector (5.11a)
By: toddgordon When: Feb 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb does not deserve a star.....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Head Area : The Safe Zone : Goldfinger Rock : Octopussy (5.10a)
By: toddgordon When: Feb 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this climb is more like 5.10b......maybe a 5.10a/b rating would be better?......(or just 5.10-)....
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Location: AZ : Navajolands : Canyon De Chelly National M... : Spider Rock (5.10d)
By: toddgordon When: Jan 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is on the face that faces away from the overlook....(I guess you would call it the backside....)...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Pitted Rock
By: toddgordon When: Dec 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right of Pitfall is Cockpit (5.9+) and has maybe 3 bolts and joins Pitfall at the run-out last moves. Around the corner to the left is The Gay Germans (5.10c) with a couple of bolts and a short crack section.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Camp Road : Photo
By: toddgordon When: Aug 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris is correct. Short , sweet, on funky rock, but them Petzel hangers winkin' at ya keep you going....
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Location: AZ : Navajolands : Canyon De Chelly National M... : Spider Rock (5.10d)
By: toddgordon When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Colin; You are correct;....it DOES seem kinda strange. Do what you wish with this information;......You found this information strange;.... Maybe some people find my "spraying and confessing guilt" interesting, curious, facinating, or , in the case of guys like Jim Bridwell......possibly useful;...
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Location: CA : High Desert : Photo
By: toddgordon When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The late Tom Burke on the lead;.........(Tucker Tech looking down from above...)
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Location: CA : High Desert : Photo
By: toddgordon When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Off of Haystack Rd, past the Patton Museum, east of Indio, on the way to Phoenix. (South of the Freeway;..you can see the climbs from the freeway.....)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : The Bride : Honeymoon (5.7 A2)
By: toddgordon When: Jun 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brad;.....I remember spending many hours on the lead with this climb;...I went so slow, I went through 3 different belayers, because they all got so sunburned. I remember crappy rock, shallow holes without something bounded in them, and lots of scary wobbly "stuff" fixed in drilled holes that I feared would come out with my body weight. I also remember banging pins in holes, and as soon as the pin reached the back of the hole, the pin would boing all the way out..I felt bad ... more >>
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