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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Middle Kingdom : Pernicious Dome : Mortal Thoughts (5.10)
By: toddgordon When: May 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really cool ;.....man;...the dude who lead this in the video sure was relaxed;..when I led this climb;..I got worked and was sort of all shakey on it;...Great send! Bravo! I thought this was a really good climb too;...it's a sleeper;....not too well known;...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Lakeside Rock - East Face : ... : Photo
By: toddgordon When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photo taken by Alan Roberts (The voice of the crag).
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Jolly Roger (5.10c)
By: toddgordon When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was out there a week or so ago;...I looked really hard and didn't see an anchor for j. Roger.....I saw the other anchor for the hard climbs...but that was out on the face......
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cave Corridor Area : Cave Corridor : ... : Shaggy Dog (aka Route 1056) (5.9)
By: toddgordon When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this is the first bolt Kurt Smith ever drilled......
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : I Love my Marine, Direct (5.10c)
By: toddgordon When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe it to be 5.10+....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Burning Man (5.10)
By: toddgordon When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well put, David;...thank you...
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Location: David Garcia : Joshua Tree : Photo
By: toddgordon When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot on a fun climb.....(sorry you didn't make it first try)...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ...
By: toddgordon When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe they are Gerberding/Al Dude routes;....I need to find out more too...
OK....here's what I got....Left route Lotus Flower (5.11a) five bolts to anchor. Middle route three bolts (5.10a), and right route 5.9 (2 bolts). Located down and right of Xmas tree arete...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : Glue Rhymes with Poo (5.10a)
By: toddgordon When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Dave Evans, Todd Gordon, Margie Floyd (Evans), Hamish Morrison, Mike Rodrique 1-90
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : That's Powell Not Rowell (5.10a PG13)
By: toddgordon When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Todd Gordon, Kevin Powell, Mike Rodrique, Dave Evans 1-90
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Unreported Rock : Frank's Sandwich (5.10+)
By: toddgordon When: Jan 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe Kelly's real name is Dave.......Dave Kelly Vaught;....I was just being formal.....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Zippy Rock : Gargoyle (5.6)
By: toddgordon When: Jan 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good;...now you don't have to do that lame dicey choss decent, there is an anchor for two climbs (Gragoyle/Canalizo), climbers aren't beating up the desert getting back to their packs from walking off the back, and the rope doesn't get shreaded on gargoyle with the old gear anchor......good idea.....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Candlestein Pass : Incredible Shrinking Nose (5.7) : Photo
By: toddgordon When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: They are still bomber;.....just a wee bit worn;...I'd go off them..
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Candlestein Pass : Incredible Shrinking Nose (5.7)
By: toddgordon When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Pyramid Tower and The Stirr... : Go Ask Alice (5.10b)
By: toddgordon When: Dec 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No gear needed....quick draws only....to bolted rap anchor..
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : The Bilbo Buttresses : Val De Mello (5.10c)
By: toddgordon When: Dec 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Richard, for fixing up the anchor;....and good job on the climb too......it's a tough one......I remember being way scared on the FA......hand drillling for stances all pooped out and gripped....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Wash Hillside : ... : Funky Fresh (5.8)
By: toddgordon When: Dec 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben...we do them on site on the lead...they can't all be gems....but in spite of the routes lack of quality;..we still had fun climbing it!......I am lucky in that I have fun on most climbs reguardless of the routes quality;....I guess I just like climbing and hanging out w/my homies.....I'm a lucky fellow! (Have you done the route;.....if you haven't......give it a try;...it's a hoot, and well protected/safe ....the rock quality does suck....mega-suck ev... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Dry Lake (5.10b)
By: toddgordon When: Dec 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are now three bolts on this climb. The climb originally had 2 bolts and a piton up higher, but the piton disappeared and was replaced by a bolt. Now it has three bolts. .......
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Pixie Rock : ... : Photo
By: toddgordon When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's the one...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks Area : Dr. Haney's Tool Shed Area : The Doublemint Twins (aka P... (5.10b)
By: toddgordon When: Dec 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adam;...can you change the name of this climb to Doublemint Twins (AKA Proper BT)....thanks....(and change the rating to 5.10-....waaah......)..
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Back Up Singers (5.8)
By: toddgordon When: Nov 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Todd Gordon, Dan Adler 3-96 (unless someone else has an earlier ascent...)......
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Zippy Rock : Don't (5.10a)
By: toddgordon When: Nov 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is some beta, if you must lead this pile;....Carefully lieback up the wide crack to the first bolt.
After clipping the first bolt, drop down and to a low traverse over to a crack. Climb and grovel up the crack placing a couple of medium cams until you get to the 2nd bolt.....After clipping the 2nd bolt, it would probably be best to downclimb and get your cams, so you won't have too much rope drag. Grain up steep gritty face past 3 or 4 more bolts to a bolted anchor.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Zippy Rock : Don't (5.10a)
By: toddgordon When: Nov 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Don't now has new bolts and a bolted anchor on top. The old 1/4" and 5/16th" buttonheads are gone; replaced by sturdy 3/8" rawls. This climb is still a "don't do" climb, for the rock is shit and the climb is run-out too. If you have to do this climb, throw a top rope on it. Even with good bolts, the climb still sucks, but at least you won't die on this climb anymore...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Phelp's Chevrolet (5.9)
By: toddgordon When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great job, Matt;...it's a "full value" lead for 5.9;.....keeping the grade honest. Not a give-away 5.9.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Aiguille de Joshua Tree : Photo
By: toddgordon When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tucker Tech and Sarah Snyder both stood on top together once.....I believe it was dicey...
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