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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: Todd Bauck When: Jul 15, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt on the pitch after the crux was camoflaged and did not have a sling on it as of 7/15/2002. It is hard to find. After climbing through the roof, continue up the left leaning crack system for about 40' until you come to some large blocks in the crack system. The bolt is about 25' up and to the right of these blocks. It can be seen if you lean way back from the blocks. It is a light tan color.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Kit Carson / The Prow (5.8 R)
By: Todd Bauck When: Jun 29, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I made a mistake. I should have put in Spanish Creek, not Willow Creek (you drive over Willow creek about 2.5 miles from Crestone - it takes you up the other side of Kit Carson)
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: Todd Bauck When: Jun 27, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: To find the Cruise Gully, go halfway between the campground and the ranger station and look for a trail on the South side. About 40' along this trail is a sign saying that this is the Cruise Gully.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : George's Tree (5.9)
By: Todd Bauck When: Jun 18, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a double set of small cams for this route. Then a standard rack up to a #3 Friend. A single larger piece will be nice for pitches 3 and 4. On the first pitch above the 2 bolt anchor, it gets steeper. But good footwork will keep it in the 5.9 range. I had one foot wedged in the flaring crack and the other further out using heel - toe techinque. Pitch 4 was probably the crux.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: Todd Bauck When: Jun 4, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good description by Charles Vernon. A few additional comments: End pitch 1 under the second roof. It is a poor stance, but it is protected from rockfall (the second pitch could easily generate some). Pitches 3 & 4 can be combined with a 60 m rope. The variation he reported for pitch 6 is not bad. You climb up the corner directly above the belay for about 30' and reach way around the arete to your left to clip a sling. Hand traverse around the arete and back up the the fixed piece (it w... more >>
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