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Pulling the roof of Rodan


Member Since: Nov 11, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Todd Green


Point Rank: # 2,680
Total Points: 182
Last Year: 51
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Todd Green been climbing?










Contributions


All 160 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 23 | Page Improvments | Comments 17 | Posts 12 | Stars 64 | Ratings 39

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Last Shout (5.11)
By: Todd Green When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: As you saw @IME, I'm old and can't remember names of routes unless I track them here. MP.com needs to take a gander at RP.com where you can tag a ticked route as an onsight, solo, hang dog, tr, etc. Until then I just use the comments. If it doesn't say RP/OS, etc. it wasn't a send.

But I'll take you up on the belay and do the "money pitch" and give you the stars you deserve. :P (We only had the guide book and I thought I was doing Ralph, Herb, Bert and Ernie. Turns out we did half of Andy's... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Pins, Bashies, Matches and ... (5.11b)
By: Todd Green When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: The 140' is from the topo in the Ruckman guide, but thinking about it, there is no way it is that long or a 70m wouldn't reach. Fixed the description.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Split Decision (5.8)
By: Todd Green When: Oct 18, 2010

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Comments: Sweet, updated the FA info. Any idea on what they called it or the grade they gave it?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Super Slab : Super Crack (5.10)
By: Todd Green When: Sep 26, 2010

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Comments: Very, very fun crack, overhanging with the infamous LCL (Little Cottonwood Lean) too bad it isn't longer. Doesn't seem like the upper pitches get much action given how much kitty litter we swept off of them. You can run both of the "P4s" together with a 70m so we didn't move the belay up as per the description above. You can almost run P5 and P6 together. (We ended up simulclimbing the last 15' or so, pretty much from the last bolt to the anchors.) Thanks for putting this up and the work on... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Westwind Buttress : Warhorse (5.12d R) : Photo
By: Todd Green When: Jun 30, 2010

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Comments: Photo Credit actually goes to Zac Robinson. I just photoshopped the 1-5 routes in.

Proud send in any case!!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : Garden of Eden (5.9)
By: Todd Green When: Jun 24, 2010

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Comments: Couldn't find a sling with a ring on this. There was a bit of torn webbing; perhaps that is all that is left. I used the Extreme Unction anchors to rap.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Delicacy (5.10+)
By: Todd Green When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: Didn't realize that sparrow was on the menu. :(


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Zigzag (5.10d PG13)
By: Todd Green When: Jun 17, 2010

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Comments: If you use the tree after the downclimb/scramble to rap, you can get down with a single 70m. What are the thoughts on adding bolts? That tree didn't look like it was long for life. Or should you just use the other rap suggestion?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Split Decision (5.8)
By: Todd Green When: Jun 11, 2010

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Comments: Actually I came by to update the description to let people know you definitely can't rap on a single 70. (We had two, and given the weather, we were more focused on just getting down) which someone may give a shit about if they are 3/4's the way down P&B and find themselves at the knots. ;) Two weeks is not exactly a month. I don't browse MP daily.

> Perhaps the Smoots eaRs aren't as long as you'd like to believe.

You really need to fix that sticky shift key. @SEMICOLO... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Split Decision (5.8)
By: Todd Green When: Jun 10, 2010

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Comments: Did you read the description for the Needle's Eye?:

____________
This chimney is so tight that only skinny climbers can slither through...Try it naked. ... The chimney itself doesn't protect. Perhaps take a few cams for above the chimney.
____________

Do those pics look like a squeeze chimney with no protection? Again FA's aren't my thing. If someone knows of an earlier FA, I'm more than happy to delete this and create an entry for them (or someone else can). I also agree that it seems impr... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall : Kermit's Direct Start (5.10c R)
By: Todd Green When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: WRT it being run out. I talked to Scott about this and he said that he didn't want to affect/change the original route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Westwind Buttress : Photo
By: Todd Green When: Apr 30, 2010

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Comments: Just to give credit where it is due, Zac took the photo, I just photoshopped the routes in.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Westwind Buttress : Flippin' the Bird (5.9+) : Photo
By: Todd Green When: Apr 30, 2010

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Comments: Disclosure: Crappy photoshop filters by me. :P


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Westwind Buttress : Check the Technique (5.10-)
By: Todd Green When: Apr 29, 2010

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Comments: Strong work Mr. Yellow. Great eye and greater endurance to hand drill all those bolts ground up in a single go. Muito respeito! This route is a must do if you take the time to hike up to the wall.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Split Decision (5.8)
By: Todd Green When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: >> better get on this quick,
>> it gets harder by the hour.

It's the snow accumulating. ;) Sorry I was trying to figure out MP's averaging algorithm (which seems a bit wonky) and forgot to put it back from an 8+ to 8. (Found the route that made me wonder: Red Neck Slab has 10a/b, 10a, 10a, and the consensus is 10-, huh? I guess MP considers "-" to be harder than "a".)

Getting way off topic, nice work on LHW area on all the new r... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Split Decision (5.8)
By: Todd Green When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Turns out that the FA happened many years ago (as many suspected), but I'll leave the original comment here otherwise the rest of the thread doesn't make sense.


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This was my second climbing day of the season, my second season leading, and my first FA. I wasn't even supposed to lead. On my first day of the season I took an unexpected lead fall and had mangled my hand a bit (not to mention my head.) So what better way to ge... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : The Flakes (5.10b)
By: Todd Green When: Aug 16, 2009

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Comments: Sweet, sweet set of flakes. Much taller than Boissal's pics make it out to be. (He must have used a French lense. :P ) There is a set of glued anchors due east of the bush-belay. With two 70's tied together you can do a single rap clear down to the gully.