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Member Since: Jul 30, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Contributions


All (46) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (6) | Comments (18) | Posts (1) | Stars (14) | Ratings (6)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Aretnophobia (FA)

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c (56)

Sport, 1 pitch, 70'

CO : Golden : ... : The Canal Zone

May 31, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Near the top on Soaring, September 2010.  It's classic stemming all the way. Anchors just below the roof. The guidebooks suggested I might need gear, but a little way up I could see that it was bolted all the way, so I dumped the rack on a bolt. Photo: Kristin Felix

Near the top on Soaring, September 2010. It's classic stemming all the way. Anchors just below the roof. The guidebooks suggested I might need gear, but a little way up I could see that it was bolted

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Soaring (5.11a)

Sep 29, 2012

Near the start of Soaring, September 2010 (2 pitches of climbing to get to here). There is some vegetation in the corner, but it's not obtrusive. Photo: Kristin Felix.

Near the start of Soaring, September 2010 (2 pitches of climbing to get to here). There is some vegetation in the corner, but it's not obtrusive. Photo: Kristin Felix.

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Soaring (5.11a)

Sep 29, 2012

Climber at the anchors (actually just finishing The Local Scoop).  This anchor serves both routes: Going Retro (route to the left), and The Local Scoop (route to the right).  The not-so-obvious cleft just to climber's right is Skylight.

Climber at the anchors (actually just finishing The Local Scoop). This anchor serves both routes: Going Retro (route to the left), and The Local Scoop (route to the right). The not-so-obvious cleft

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Going Retro (M6)

Dec 29, 2011

Through the crux.

Through the crux.

CO : Golden : ... : Aretnophobia (5.11)

Jun 1, 2011

Casey working the arete.

Casey working the arete.

CO : Golden : ... : Aretnophobia (5.11)

Jun 1, 2011

Aretnophobia is the line in red left of Batso.

Aretnophobia is the line in red left of Batso.

CO : Golden : ... : Aretnophobia (5.11)

May 31, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : Chinese Water Torture (M8)
By: Todd Felix When: Jan 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There is a 2-bolt anchor with chains and carabiners. This works better than the tree, but it is pretty exposed (you'll probably want to use the tree for protection if setting a TR off the bolts).

The new guidebook calls this M9 due to broken holds around the middle of the route which results in a blank move or 2 (or a 'long reach' that I cannot fathom). Has local consensus changed? I don't know, but I did find the move perplexingly blank.

And thank you, Jason, for clarifying High Tor vs CWT.... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : LeSaucisson (M5)
By: Todd Felix When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: I've never found the fourth bolt. Perhaps it gets covered with ice or perhaps there are only 3 bolts. Either way, this makes the top out onto the ice a little heady (standing at the anchors may be ground-fall potential). And it feels more like M6 to me.

Also, you can start left or right. Starting left on positive holds leads to a cruxy traverse right; starting right is a bit less positive for the first few moves. Either way feels M6 to me.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: Todd Felix When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Great route, and incredible Photo opportunities! I agree with Skyler: the #4 camalot isn't necessary, and the #2 is a better piece. Maybe even a #1 fits there. Can't believe someone convinced me to lug the 4 up there. Oh well, not like you're carrying a bunch of gear for this thing: cordolette, screamer, and #2 is all I used. The cordolette around the neck is key; it was the first piece for me (5.8 or 5.9 R to there). And it needs to be pretty long; 10... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Storming the Castle (5.11)
By: Todd Felix When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: This is a great route! And reasonably protected. It's too bad you kinda have to start on Curving Crack, but that doesn't make it a squeeze job; the rest of the route has spectacular, independent climbing. Very worthwhile addition. I can't believe I never climbed it before.

I do wonder about all the hammer (?) marks all over one of the middle bolts??


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Bob's Rock : Ego Buster (5.10c)
By: Todd Felix When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: 'Climb to the ledge' to start the route. Well there are several ways to do this. What is the typical start for this climb?
1. 20 feet climbers' right is a moderate corner start, but this will offer no protection to a second who ascends the same start (you could probably fiddle a nut, but it would be too low to protect the 2nd and may pull out with the sideways pull to the next bolt). This is also way off the line of the climb and out of character with the rest of the route.
2. Right side of th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Buckets of Rain (5.9)
By: Todd Felix When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: Felt easier than 5.10 to me, but perhaps I didn't follow the intended line. There was a lot of lichen and some loose rock, including a large flake toward the top (last 2 bolts) that seems like it should be trundled. The hardest part was trying to avoid that flake; it's the best hold around there. Maybe there's a good route under there, but it could use some cleaning.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Hornet (5.11b PG13)
By: Todd Felix When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: My buddy and I both bailed off that first pitch due to hard climbing over uninspiring gear below the first bolt. Too bad because it's a stellar pitch (we did TR it). Now I think I know what the "key placement" is (not the stopper 20 feet below that Ross mentioned; the gear he thought wasn't worth fiddling with...and he may be right), but we didn't have that piece of gear at the time. Still, I'm not sure how excited I'll be to climb above that piece in the future--pretty thin gear, a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Todd Felix When: Dec 7, 2012

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Comments: Technically that's pitch 3, but linking P1 + P2 makes sense.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Soaring (5.11a)
By: Todd Felix When: Aug 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: OK, so we climbed this in 2010 and we really liked this PITCH. Pitch 3, that is, according to the write-up here. Pretty well bolted all the way up (9 bolts in 95 feet; you could bring a few smaller cams to supplement).

I thought this was a 1 pitch route (which starts 200+ feet off the ground), and that the other 2 pitches listed here as P1 & P2 were a different route called Strongback; just one way of several to get to Soaring. Regardless, there ARE other ways to get to... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : The Local Scoop (M7) : Photo
By: Todd Felix When: Dec 29, 2011

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Comments: I'm pretty sure this is the route "Going Retro" based on the first piece of gear.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone
By: Todd Felix When: May 31, 2011

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Comments: There is a new route on the arete just left of Batso as of 5/29/11. Aretnophobia. These are not the anchors that needstolearn is asking about.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Walking With A Ghost (5.11)
By: Todd Felix When: May 31, 2011

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Comments: Beautiful line. Perhaps my favorite in the Canyon. Funny, Kirk always takes the same path, but I climb it a different way pretty much every time! Sometimes just for variety, sometimes the line calls to me differently that day. They all seem about the same difficulty, too. It's like a new on-sight every time.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Aretnophobia (5.11)
By: Todd Felix When: May 31, 2011

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Comments: It will probably feel 5.10-ish when you know the moves, but they may be cryptic, so expect 5.11-ish on-sight.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Todd Felix When: May 19, 2011

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Comments: Attention Eldo Climbers,

The Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE) is considering 2 current applications for fixed hardware in Eldo, and your input is needed. Full information available at our website: www.aceeldo.org/fhrc/applications/

1. Super Slab bolt relocation, 4th pitch.
2. New route with 4 bolts, 5.10, Redgarden Wall.

Please participate in this public review process:
1. Vote and comment online at: www.aceeldo.org/fhrc/applications/.
2. Vote and comment at the Public Meeting: W... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Todd Felix When: May 17, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: There is an application pending to replace and relocate the bolt on pitch 4. This is a pubic review process facilitated by the Action Committee for Eldorado. Please vote and comment online at: www.aceeldo.org/fhrc/applications/


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Hornet (5.11b PG13)
By: Todd Felix When: Apr 22, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The link above didn't work; here's a better link to the ACE application with a pic of the route:
ACE Application


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Ethics? What Ethics? (5.11b)
By: Todd Felix When: Feb 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The nut on the last bolt is quite loose as of 2/13/11. Snugging it with a wrench would be helpful. I didn't have a wrench with me, so I only got it finger-tight (and at that point my finger strength was waning miserably). I know, I know, I should start carrying a wrench with me to sport crags.


Location: Buff Johnson : Personal2 : Photo
By: Todd Felix When: May 13, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This is ingenious! If you have enough rope(s).


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