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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+) : Photo
By: Todd Eddie When: Oct 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks like perfect hands!!!! Bold lead with the lie-back!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Bad Faith (5.9)
By: Todd Eddie When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First time I climbed on limestone was this route 2 weeks ago. I hung several times and I am a solid 5.10 leader (so I thought at least). On-sighted druken money after this and caress of steel the next day and I felt this was the hardest of these routes. This is a wandering polished route - no groundfall potential but you could get beat-up taking a whipper - be safe.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Shame Wall
By: Todd Eddie When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The trail is directly behind and left of the FIRST picnic table east of the restroom. Then head about 250ft up the talus trail to the wall. As news to the area we got lost and ended up at hard rock by following the trail "east of the picnic area"
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Toys In The Attic (5.9)
By: Todd Eddie When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: apparently this route gets little traffic. Down low it's jamming in dead grass/rat nests. Above the appeal gains as the crack goes overhanging. FWIW, I thought the crux fist jams were almost on par with Fisticuffs in J-tree (10b). Maybe if you stem the grade drops, but I jammed both feet in the crack and felt the overhang!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Doomsday (5.10a)
By: Todd Eddie When: Feb 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new miramontes book indicates this route has a bolt anchor and is 5.9. I scoped this route on 2/26/12 and there was new bolts but no anchor. The old bolts were not pulled and someone bailed on a quick link at the last bolt so it looks as if there is an anchor without chains or rings. FYI.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Tow Away Zone (5.10a)
By: Todd Eddie When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried left after the bolt and was shut down. Gear to the right looked bad. Got a couple c3s in below the bolt. IMHO this route is not for the new 10a climber, the lieback/slab moves were awkward for me ESP plugging gear. but I'm not good on granite, feel I have to add a grade to most. The crack above looks amazing, maybe next time!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crags : Manifest Destiny (5.10a)
By: Todd Eddie When: Apr 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this yesterday for the first time. The lost foot hold JT mentions doesn't seem to raise the grade as it only feels like a couple 10a moves. Super fun down low and still interesting up top. A little confusion over which shared anchor to go to, I went left which lowered me down in the right spot. Some of those tiny fins up top seem like they'll pop, as well as a left pinch to clip the first bolt (with no right foot now). The potential of blown hold was the headiest part of the climb for me whi... more >>
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