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Member Since: Aug 24, 2009
Last Visit: Nov 7, 2012
Contact Tod Bloxham


Point Rank: # 9,669
Total Points: 20
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Tod Bloxham been climbing?










Contributions


All (10) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (1) | Comments (5) | Posts | Stars (3) | Ratings

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Iconoclast

5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b (10)

Trad, 8 pitches, 800'

WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Snow Creek Wall

Jun 28, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Snow Creek Wall

Snow Creek Wall

WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Iconoclast (5.10c)

Jun 28, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : Bad Finger (5.10b)
By: Tod Bloxham When: Sep 8, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Incredible climb! The finger locks at the top are inspiring. The 2nd roof is bit of a hand jam puzzle, but steller moves that work right into a pumpy finger lock finish.

Definitely a few no brainer nut placements as well as easy cam placements (and a few no hands rests if you want).


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northwest Face : Wherever I May Roam (5.9)
By: Tod Bloxham When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: Great climb. I would recommend linking pitches 2-3 and linking 4-5. The pitches are short otherwise and you definitely get more continuous climbing out of each pitch; there is little to no rope drag when linking. By linking you may also help speed up the line of people behind you that wants to climb (on busy weekends).

P2-3 is 55-60 meters (or shorter) and takes 19 draws if you clip every bolt, though many bolts are so close that you can easily reach back clean many bolts from the ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Lovin' Arms (5.10b/c)
By: Tod Bloxham When: Aug 24, 2009

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Comments: Great climb and finish for Davis-Holland.

P1 - The double cracks seemed harder than 10b.

P2 - We did the alternate 10c (15+ feet up then traverse right on a hand crack) rather than traverse over to the aid bolt. This seemed much easier than 10c and easier than the first pitch.

P3 - Random easier face/edge climbing, and is easily linked with P2.

If you only have a 60 meter rope, there is a decent way to rap off the upper town wall using both the Heaven's Gate and Golden Road Anchors:
-Walk c... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Heaven's Gate (5.11a)
By: Tod Bloxham When: Aug 24, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Way fun! Definitely a must do. Pitches 2-4 is thoroughly bolted so there is no worry of getting run out anywhere on these pitches.

P1 (10c trad chimney with some bolts) can be awkward in places, but just when you think it's getting desperate, there are no hands rests.

P2 is a one move wonder (11a; pull the roof at the anchors then go long and right for the jug/rail). Very sporty/edgy (10) for the remainder of the pitch (thoroughly bolted).

P3 is shorter to the roofs. The angle e... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Davis-Holland Route (5.10c)
By: Tod Bloxham When: Aug 24, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: As reported, P2 sucked up the .75 Green BD. I used four of them, though I think if you look hard enough you could probably find spots in the crack that would accept another size. Regardless, if you take 3 of them or 5, you will use them and be fine.

Lovin Arms is a great finish. I would recommend this over rapping from P3.

If you only have a 60 meter rope and your topping out on Lovin Arms, there is a decent way to rap off the upper town wall using both the Heaven's Gate and Golden Road Anc... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Pure Palm 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Wildfire Wall

Iconoclast 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Snow Creek Wall