Comments: The Gunks in Boulder Canyon. Place the big cam in the back of the roof with a long runner and slowly crawl with a long reach out to the jug, out the roof. Let your feet cut for fun!!
Comments: The horn can still be slung but it could easily be kicked loose even with a slider knot. I placed a red alien just above it in the an undercling part of the lie-back. (Looks like a chipped hold too). That's really the only pro past the second bolt.
Comments: I think this is a great first 10a lead but want to make a disclaimer. This route has a potential for an awkward fall. I was belaying a leader on this route and he had placed a red alien about 4 feet below the top of the dihedral. As he reached for the good hold to pull out of the dihedral (and out the roof ) he peeled and swung down hitting his right side in the dihedral. This caused his right front gear loop to blow out and all his small cams and a no. 3 camalot cut loose. I don't know if this... more >>